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Old 12-08-2013, 03:49 PM   #1
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Default TH400/Gear Vendors install thread

I got the 4r70w out yesterday without issue, and realized quickly I couldn't lift the TH400/Gear Vendors up on the trans jack myself, so I did the shifter for now.
I didn't think id commplete it in a few hours (less wiring) but I did.
I'll post pics of the trans install here, as well as crossmember modification.
For now, here are the shifter pics:

Here is the console bottom assembly with threaded rod binding posts welded on. Easy to get the height correct with them


I used a sharp punch to puncture the floorboard from inside for the shifter cable:




I later used a piece of small vacuum line to act as a grommet for the hole.





I have to make a trim plate or have a new shifter boot made to take up the gap



And the installed view underneath. I can't believe how smooth everything went



Now I can swap the good driveshaft I took out of this over to my Blue MM.
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:29 PM   #2
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Nice! Not sure what's involved in removing the handle from the boot, but these can be had cheap all day long and doesn't require any console modifications what so ever.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/111220100199?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:47 PM   #3
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Holy shit Bob thanks!!!!
Just ordered one
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:33 PM   #4
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Should be a fun thread.
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guspech750 View Post
Should be a fun thread.
Fun indeed! Biscuits likey drilling, cutting, grinding, and welding on perfectly good cars to make them even more perfectly BETTER...!

justbob approved! :thumbsup:
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Old 12-09-2013, 01:04 PM   #6
 
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Very nice as usual, Zack. I just installed one of those shifters in a '96 GT Mustang track-only drag car. It went pretty smoothly.
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Old 12-09-2013, 10:45 PM   #7
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Old 12-09-2013, 10:59 PM   #8
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I like this. A lot
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:49 AM   #9
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I sprayed on bed liner on most of the accessible undercarriage yesterday.
Gonna get the hard to reach spots with some chassis black.

I'm going to buy my new project tonight (but won't start til spring or summer)

And I started stripping the play field on my High Speed Pinball last night to touch up and clearcoat.

Busy winter!
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:57 AM   #10
 
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Post up the pros and cons between the TH400 and a 75RW.
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
Post up the pros and cons between the TH400 and a 75RW.
Um, not sure that's a fair comparison.
Th400 with this shifter gives you the feel of a manual, is no bigger than the 4r and will never break.
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:56 AM   #12
 
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Sounds good is the TH400 PCM controlled like a 75RW?

I know Fordnut did this swap (without the GV overdrive) back in the day but he never said why nor did he post the build

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Old 12-10-2013, 07:04 AM   #13
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Th400's are vacuum operated.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:14 AM   #14
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...only if they still have the modulator....

most perf/braked'd 400's have em deleted
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3800>all other technology ever
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
Sounds good is the TH400 PCM controlled like a 75RW?

I know Fordnut did this swap (without the GV overdrive) back in the day but he never said why nor did he post the build

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Fordnut has a 4R100 built by Brians Truck shop with a stand alone controller.

The TH400 is controlled by vacuum like stated above or by the driver when a manual valve body is installed. (Like mine)
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:42 AM   #16
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Hey buddy, what are you doing for a speedo input? I know there are options out there just curious what one you are going with...
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curless View Post
Hey buddy, what are you doing for a speedo input? I know there are options out there just curious what one you are going with...

The GV has a tone ring and I use a GM pickup and wiring. I really need to get a different tone ring though. The GV has 40 or so teeth and the ford pcm doesnt like it, even when its programmed properly.

I may just tap into the abs sensor like the mustang guys do with great success.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:15 AM   #18
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math: ferd computers are too slow
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:50 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zack View Post
The GV has a tone ring and I use a GM pickup and wiring. I really need to get a different tone ring though. The GV has 40 or so teeth and the ford pcm doesnt like it, even when its programmed properly.

I may just tap into the abs sensor like the mustang guys do with great success.
Cool, just make sure if you do that to use high end connectors, ABS does not like resistance!
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:00 AM   #20
 
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Gonna study up on this xmission Zack. Sounds like another great build. Which MM are you putting this setup in? Prozack, turbo blue, or the DD?
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:46 AM   #21
 
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Zack. Would you happen to have the dimensions for the bracket you made for the quarter stick. That looks nice and solid compared to some I've seen. 4STB-E and hurst sitting in my shed just waiting for Spring. ;-) What are the details on the converter btw?
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Old 12-10-2013, 10:42 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Zack. Would you happen to have the dimensions for the bracket you made for the quarter stick. That looks nice and solid compared to some I've seen. 4STB-E and hurst sitting in my shed just waiting for Spring. ;-) What are the details on the converter btw?
????
I welded the binding posts directly onto the bottom support plate of the console. (The piece the HVAC runs through to the back seat)

It has a 3600 Converter from UCC
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:33 AM   #23
 
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I see now. I haven't opened that area up yet so it's nice to see other's ideas well ahead of starting my own project.
3600 stall, what's the max rpm you think you'll run the beast at?
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Old 12-10-2013, 12:26 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I see now. I haven't opened that area up yet so it's nice to see other's ideas well ahead of starting my own project.
3600 stall, what's the max rpm you think you'll run the beast at?
6800-7kish, like usual
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Old 12-15-2013, 02:51 PM   #25
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I was able to make some progress the past few days here and there.

First, I brushed on some undercoating:





I used rustoleum from Menards. Comes in a quart and must say....works very well! Have them shake it in the machine before you buy it.

Had my friend over to help me get the trans on the jack...omg that wasnt easy.
Anyway, ran into an immediate problem with the front of the GV hitting the trans tunnel. I had to hack out what is pictured:




Got that done and re-fit it. More problems. The back of the GV is hitting the trans tunnel, and there is no more webbing to remove. I now have to cut a small section out and make a new piece of elevated metal on the inside of the car. When the trans is jacked all the way up into the sheet metal, there is a 1/8" gap between the top of the bellhousing and engine block.
Ill make those modifications this week sometime.







Im a little curious as to what those 2 rivets hold down. Guess we will find out once I cut them out. LOL
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