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Hmmm T/A is eating through alternators...maybe...

firemandan1700

Bite my shiny metal ass
Apr 6, 2008
8,635
10
LaSalle County
Ever since I had my racetronix fuel pump and Pnp wiring harness installed I have had nothing but problems with the alternator.

When I first had the pump installed, the alt was fine (original one since purchace of car), then it started over charging the battery to 17 volts.
So I had the alternator rebuilt and the voltage regulator replaced. It was fine for a few weeks then the car had an issue where it drained tha battery dead... Completely... So I started to deduct the simple things and replaced the alternator and problem solved. Now, the alternator is not putting out power past 12 volts.

The shit is getting old obviously so my question is, am I looking over something very simple and obvious or either is the battery bad where it wont hold a charge past 12v or is the stocker alternator just not enough and I need to get an alternator that can put out more pah to keep up with the fuelpump. (I load tested my battery and it went from 12v to 10v on the test)

And If that is the case, my question to you who have put in alts other than stock OEM, what alternators put out more power but will still fit into the stock bracket ect... Please supply part numbers cause im just as dumb as the ricerzone people too. :rofl:


Maybe nate at nasty or one of the other shops have encountered said problem, hopefully they can chime in. :bigthumb:
 

hellraiser319

Hellraising since 1986
May 17, 2010
1,323
0
West Bend, WI
There are plenty that put out more power but in the same size.. just a matter of how many windings, internals, etc...

Only things I can think of, make sure all mounting bosses are nice and clean, no corrosion, and make sure if its the stock wiring, that the fusible link(s) is not blown. If you upgrade the alternator, throw on some heavier gauge wiring to get the full effect of the increased power, aka do the Big 3.
 

Pewter-Camaro

TCG Elite Member
May 28, 2011
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11,197
South of Wisconsin.

Eagle

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Mar 1, 2008
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Woodsticks, IL
I'd check or replace the cables that go from the battery to the alternator. Mine had a short at the cable end and caused a similar problem. I replaced it with some leftover 1/0 gauge car audio cable and have not had an issue since. Also you can try a truck alternator..

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gener...87967-fix-my-endless-alternator-failures.html

replace the excitor wire (the wire that plugs into the alternator) first before anything. its a problem on ls1s.

^^^^ both of these.

The exciter wire breaks all the time and will cause this.

LS1 alts are also JUNK, so just grab a 2003 silverado 6.0L alternator next time. 145A of pure goodness, vs. 105A stock. The maintain voltage at idle much better than the stock unit. I also have one on my car. Made a big diff actually.
 

Eagle

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funny-dog-im-not-just-the-president.jpg
 

firemandan1700

Bite my shiny metal ass
Apr 6, 2008
8,635
10
LaSalle County
replace the excitor wire (the wire that plugs into the alternator) first before anything. its a problem on ls1s.

That wire looked fine... it is still pretty tight in the plug.

^^^^ both of these.

The exciter wire breaks all the time and will cause this.

LS1 alts are also JUNK, so just grab a 2003 silverado 6.0L alternator next time. 145A of pure goodness, vs. 105A stock. The maintain voltage at idle much better than the stock unit. I also have one on my car. Made a big diff actually.

I will do this. Its just too humid and Im feeling lazy cause I just got home from work lol. But other than removing the one bracket it fits like a glove? Did you have to extend the exciter or did it fit pretty well?

Whats this I read I might need a 4 pin connector pigtail when getting a newer alt? Cause I only have one wire (or a 2 pin connector) running to the plug that goes into the alt.



:bowrofl:
 

hellraiser319

Hellraising since 1986
May 17, 2010
1,323
0
West Bend, WI
Im still kind of a novice. Whats the big 3?

The fuse in the link is still good, but I would think that if the fuse blew that the car wouldnt start... right?

Sorry, been a while since I've been on... Big 3 is upgrading the wiring between the battery and alternator, battery to chassis ground, battery to engine block, and depending on the setup, i like to upgrade the wire going from the battery to the BJB (sorry Ford term, the engine fuse box). Big fuse inline between battery and alternator, and you could even leave all the stock wire there and piggy back it. Usually if you have a system, this coupled with a stronger alternator will fix most voltage fluctuation issues. As for the fusible link, car will still start, just no voltage will come from the alternator. The cable going to the starter is almost always not fused, and its own cable. Mainly because the amount of starting torque would blow the fuse every time you turned the key.
 

firemandan1700

Bite my shiny metal ass
Apr 6, 2008
8,635
10
LaSalle County
So I went out and traded my alternator under the autozone warrenty. Since when I purchased the remanned alt, got the limited lifetime warrenty. I asked the dude if I would be able to get a different alternator from a different vehicle. He said sure and since the truck alt was cheaper I got refunded some $$$ :fy:

The car runs great. So we shall see how long the reman truck alt lasts.
 

firemandan1700

Bite my shiny metal ass
Apr 6, 2008
8,635
10
LaSalle County
Hell yea it is!

It still does the starting issue... But I searched into ls1tech and there was some thread written about a set of relays being under the dash behind the glove box that go bad sometimes. I think they are part of the VATS system. I will have to look into this more and see what these relays are about.

And yes I did disable the vats system a long time ago. So these relays must have to do with something before the resistor in the key.
 
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