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Anyone else's trans overheating in this weather?
- Thread starter TransAmy
- Start date
180* in this weather isn't bad. Especially in city driving with a conveter. My TBSS has a cooler on it and I've seen 200* in fairly heavy traffic. Another thing to think about is how you have your cooler lines run. I found out on my old A4 car that the trans ran cooler when I bi-passed the factory cooler in the radiator and just ran the lines from the trans to the auxillary cooler.
With all that said if you start to see trans temps higher than what your engine temp is then you will start to have problems.
Do you have a deep trans pan? Whens the last time you did a fluid flush/filter change? Where do you have your trans temp sender located? I have a 4400 Stall in my car with a deep pan on 1 year old fluid/filter and I dont think I rarely ever see up to 180 deg. At 180-190 i'd be shitting my pants because Yank said after 190/200 good fucking luck.
I have my pan tapped for the sender, and I took the lines out of the factory cooler and they are directly into a B&M 24,000 GVW Trans Cooler.
I have my pan tapped for the sender, and I took the lines out of the factory cooler and they are directly into a B&M 24,000 GVW Trans Cooler.
I only go by the guy who built my converter he said at 180 shift quality/converter life will start to deterioate (sp?) and at 190-200 you better park the shit and let it sit. He said on his personal car he would never let the temp get about 170 if he could help it. Again I can only go by what the company told me. As for me personally i've seen 200 degrees before I had the trans cooler loop w/ the factory one and it drives/shifts different for sure.
ILIKEBMX f-bodies do not have a factory trans temp gauge that you can visually see. I chose the pan before thats what my transmission is sucking up to use so that in my eyes is the most accurate temp.
ILIKEBMX f-bodies do not have a factory trans temp gauge that you can visually see. I chose the pan before thats what my transmission is sucking up to use so that in my eyes is the most accurate temp.
Along with a big cooler, I would also switch to a full synthetic ATF like Amsoil. I noticed reduced temps when doing a full flush and filiter change on the 4L60e in my truck. I have an aftermarket gauge and it really gets worked when out plowing for 10 hrs straight. I couldn't tell you if it was just fresh fluid that made the difference or the fact that is was synthetic, but none-the-less my temps went down.
I see 150-160 degrees in the heat just driving around. I run two coolers and a aluminum deep B&M pan. My sending unit is in the side of the pan as well.
The additives in the trans fluid start to break down, separate or what have you around 190-200 degrees and that is the major issue. So you loose some of the protection the fluid normally offers.
You may want to ask you trans/converter company about using John Deere Hy-Gard fluid. Many guys have used this fluid and have seen reduced trans operating temps. But it is thicker than normal trans fluid so you will see a slightly reduced stall speed. But it will help with upper end efficiency in non lock up converters. It is almost clear so it is hard to read on the dip stick. So many use a dye in it or add a couple quarts of regular trans fluid to it so you can see the fluid better.
The additives in the trans fluid start to break down, separate or what have you around 190-200 degrees and that is the major issue. So you loose some of the protection the fluid normally offers.
You may want to ask you trans/converter company about using John Deere Hy-Gard fluid. Many guys have used this fluid and have seen reduced trans operating temps. But it is thicker than normal trans fluid so you will see a slightly reduced stall speed. But it will help with upper end efficiency in non lock up converters. It is almost clear so it is hard to read on the dip stick. So many use a dye in it or add a couple quarts of regular trans fluid to it so you can see the fluid better.
Get to the track and see how the converter performs. There is a way to calculate converter slip using trap speed, motor rpm, gear ratio and tire size. Then you can see how the converter is performing. 6-8% is real good. 8-12 is meh and more than that you need it redone. Mine is at like 18% right now. Need to get it out to my converter guy. My stall also fell 250 rpm with the larger turbo. Converters are not a exact science but they are way better than they used to be.
no i do not have a deep pan, last time the fluid was flushed would be when the trans was at flt for the rebuild, which was about 2 years ago. vince at flt told me 180 was getting into the danger zone, it normally functions around 150. ive just noticed on these hot days this year in traffic the temp goes up but never over 180. i have no idea what type of fluid is in there, but im guessing vince would know. my gauge goes into the trans itself at the top/side, if i remember correctly. but would placement of the gauge really affect anything, as long as it makes contact with the fluid right? how often should i be changing the trans fluid?
that is really cool.
that is really cool.
bake at 350* for about an hour.
YES the location of the trans sender has HUGE role in what the reading actually is. If you have your 1/8" NPT sensor threaded into a PRESSURE test port on on the drivers side of the trans above the shift linkage take it out and get a deep pan and tap that for the sender. The test port is not an accurate reading because it doesnt see constant fluid flow at that point. When I see cars put it there and into the pan they generally read around 15-20 degress HIGHER then what they were reading before, the fluid in your pan is truely the best because this is what the trans is above to suck up and use thats the temperature i'd like to know. Also what size trans cooler are you running is it tied into the factory cooler or stand alone by its self? Where do you have it mounted? I would flush out a stalled car atleast ONCE a year with a new filter as well, I did mine three times last year and i only put 500 miles on the car i did one full flush after 250 miles on the new trans/verter and two more after tracking the car for the weekend. Sorry for all the questions would just hate to see you lose a converter or a trans due to something silly that can be changed or prevented for cheap!no i do not have a deep pan, last time the fluid was flushed would be when the trans was at flt for the rebuild, which was about 2 years ago. vince at flt told me 180 was getting into the danger zone, it normally functions around 150. ive just noticed on these hot days this year in traffic the temp goes up but never over 180. i have no idea what type of fluid is in there, but im guessing vince would know. my gauge goes into the trans itself at the top/side, if i remember correctly. but would placement of the gauge really affect anything, as long as it makes contact with the fluid right? how often should i be changing the trans fluid?
that is really cool.
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