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Old 01-19-2018, 12:41 PM   #26
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I’ve got the tall upper ball joints now on the spc arms (doesn’t help with ride height) but figured if I needed I still have the option of taller lowers to bring it down that extra 1/2”.
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:42 PM   #27
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Apparently it’s to help with bump steer

1964-1970 GM A-Body Front Bump Steer Adjuster Kit [4061] - $179.99 : UMI Performance, Inc.
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:46 PM   #28
 
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The newer trend seems to be a higher spring rate than what used to be recommended in the rear and a slightly softer one in the front. While a completely different animal...I believe my rate in the rear is now 275 and 450 front (IIRC). This pic is when it was too low to not be white knuckled while city driving (Ridetech level 2 550/160 4 link rear):



It's a little bit higher now and still in a rebuild with a completely different suspension again.
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:49 PM   #29
 
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It's not exactly a straight on side shot, but still gives you an idea of where I was at one point.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:04 PM   #30
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that looks amazing!
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:05 PM   #31
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well holy shit
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:14 PM   #32
 
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well holy shit

Ha ha...thanks!
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:19 PM   #33
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The newer trend seems to be a higher spring rate than what used to be recommended in the rear and a slightly softer one in the front. While a completely different animal...I believe my rate in the rear is now 275 and 450 front (IIRC). This pic is when it was too low to not be white knuckled while city driving (Ridetech level 2 550/160 4 link rear):



It's a little bit higher now and still in a rebuild with a completely different suspension again.
Looks hot as hell!

THOSE WHEELS ARE MONEYYYYYYYYYY
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:26 PM   #34
 
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I went with fairly large sway bars. Iím not afraid of a rough ride if itís planted in turns. Really just looking for a fun canyon carver since there are so many good roads here.
Is there a link to the sway bars so I can see what rate they are?

If you drop too much than the tie rods get at an angle that is not parallel with the other parts you will get bumpsteer.

Honestly I would get it put together with what you have drive it and see what it feels like and if need be go to a higher or lower spring rate.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:28 PM   #35
 
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Yeah, get it on the road! Spring is coming soon
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:04 PM   #36
 
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Looks hot as hell!

THOSE WHEELS ARE MONEYYYYYYYYYY

Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:11 PM   #37
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where is @HILROD
infinite wisdon
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:12 PM   #38
 
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where is @HILROD
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Tagged him too but nothing yet.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:18 PM   #39
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Is there a link to the sway bars so I can see what rate they are?

If you drop too much than the tie rods get at an angle that is not parallel with the other parts you will get bumpsteer.

Honestly I would get it put together with what you have drive it and see what it feels like and if need be go to a higher or lower spring rate.
That's the big reason you see people doing things like tall ball joints on these cars; They weren't parallel with the other parts so they'd end up bump steering. It's one of the reasons the b-body spindle swap sucks tbh, you make the angles worse in reality.
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Old 01-19-2018, 05:36 PM   #40
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Is there a link to the sway bars so I can see what rate they are?

If you drop too much than the tie rods get at an angle that is not parallel with the other parts you will get bumpsteer.

Honestly I would get it put together with what you have drive it and see what it feels like and if need be go to a higher or lower spring rate.
Pretty sure these are the ones my wife bought me. My car never came with a rear and the front disappeared somewhere so she surprised me with some.

Stock front I think is 1 1/8”
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-720202/overview

Rear
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-720208
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:35 PM   #41
 
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I WAS BUSY! Now coil overs are a compromise on most front end swap in. Mostly they are too short to work real well unless you run them super stiff. I personally would never use them on a stock front suspension. If you are dead set on it keep the ride height as high as you can and use their arms to fit them. If you use a front spring like a Hodgkiss or Detroit speed and any decent front shock you will be way better off. Don't be scared of higher spring rates,I think I run 700+ spring rates up front and it rides decent. Just make sure you have good control arm bushings, not rubber.
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:05 PM   #42
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I WAS BUSY! Now coil overs are a compromise on most front end swap in. Mostly they are too short to work real well unless you run them super stiff. I personally would never use them on a stock front suspension. If you are dead set on it keep the ride height as high as you can and use their arms to fit them. If you use a front spring like a Hodgkiss or Detroit speed and any decent front shock you will be way better off. Don't be scared of higher spring rates,I think I run 700+ spring rates up front and it rides decent. Just make sure you have good control arm bushings, not rubber.
I think I've decided to keep my stock style setup and run the hotchkis springs I have and the QA1 single adjustable shocks. Have you ever installed any? Trying to decide on the best course of action to open up the access hole while not compromising where the shocks mount on the stock A arm.
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Old 01-20-2018, 10:04 AM   #43
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Theyíve got a bunch of spring rates available. Do you know which ones you have up front?
450lb up front
125/12s in rear(in stock location)
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Old 01-20-2018, 10:27 AM   #44
 
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You can die grind the arms with a carbide burr. You can also unbolt the pivot bolts from the frame and install the shock and spring that way. You cut way less that way. Some adjustable shocks just need none, some only for the knob.
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Old 01-20-2018, 10:29 AM   #45
 
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I've seen someones coilover kit that cuts out the upper spring mount/shock hole so you can run a longer spring/shock, but don't remember who sells that.
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Old 01-20-2018, 10:30 AM   #46
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The diameter of the shock is what doesn’t fit, not so much the knob.
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Old 01-20-2018, 10:30 AM   #47
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I've seen someones coilover kit that cuts out the upper spring mount/shock hole so you can run a longer spring/shock, but don't remember who sells that.
Umi has a kit for that I think but it’s expensive and yea you have to modify the frame quite a bit.
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Old 01-20-2018, 12:10 PM   #48
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The diameter of the shock is what doesnít fit, not so much the knob.
So, your reason for wanting to cut is you cannot get the shock through the hole to install?

Usually you pop the spindle off, unbolt the shock/cut the bolts and then use a jack to raise everything in place. The shock does not go up through the arm. Bolt up the top and you are done.
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Old 01-20-2018, 12:26 PM   #49
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So, your reason for wanting to cut is you cannot get the shock through the hole to install?

Usually you pop the spindle off, unbolt the shock/cut the bolts and then use a jack to raise everything in place. The shock does not go up through the arm. Bolt up the top and you are done.
I’ve always changed shocks thru that hole on any gm. I’ve never once had to pop a ball joint and remove a spring to install a shock.........
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Old 01-20-2018, 12:52 PM   #50
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I think you are way over complicating this. Just saying.
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