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Old 06-17-2015, 07:18 AM   #1
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Default Any LT1 OBDI tuners?

I need a shop to install my bottle heater and WOT. I need a nitrous tune after all that is installed, but I contacted every performance shop I can think of and they only do OBDII LS powered vehicles. I need recommendations on shops that are good and that will do OBDI LT1 vehicles, please help!
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:48 AM   #2
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Um , maybe Speed Inc still does them? They started on them.
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Old 06-18-2015, 08:45 AM   #3
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I already asked them and they only do 98-02 OBDII LS powered vehicles. I tried Modern Muscle in Plainfield and the same thing with them. I guess my only option is to try with Straightline Performance. If they don't do it, then I guess I have to do a mail order tune.
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:17 AM   #4
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Weird, speed did my 97 LT1... It was OBDII though. That was also many moons ago. Good luck.
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:24 AM   #5
 
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@Aron may be able to lead you in the right direction
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:27 AM   #6
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PCM for less?
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:21 AM   #7
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i heard there is a lt1 tuner in elgin somewhere..

and stay away from modern muscle, they have difficulty tuning a radio.
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:01 PM   #8
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I assume you want a dyno tune? Last I heard Straightline did them still. I don't have any experience with them, I don't know how good their tunes are. I'm not sure of any other shops around that do it.

I went through the same thing a few years ago when my car was tuned. I had MadZ28 do mine, but I know he also stopped doing them.

As for mail order tunes, the two main ones these days is pcmforless and Solomon.
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:07 PM   #9
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Worst case scenario, if you're open to it and you can find somebody that will tune it remotely, I do have a laptop with tuning and datalogging software. You'd have to pay for dyno tume and pay the tuner his fee, but I would meet up with you to load the tunes. Like I said though, that's worst case scenario, as it's a pain in the butt. We would need another computer there to send/receive the emails with the tunes attached. You then save the files to a cd, then put the cd into my computer to load into the car
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:31 AM   #10
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Thanks guys! I'm going to call Straightline on monday and see if they still do it but if not then I might have @Aron do the tuning.
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:57 AM   #11
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I'm pretty much tuning my own car. I have heads/cam so its pretty far out from stock now. Wideband is in the mail, and once its all wired up, I'll schedule dyno time. I got a good deal on a shop, $90/hr for dyno time. Probably only need an hour, but I might just schedule 2. Over the past few weeks I've just been familiarizing myself with all of the tables and reading up as much as possible.

I've got a handle on almost every table now and how it affects the other tables. Along with the WOT AFR formula. So it'll just be a case of getting it on the dyno and load testing it.

I figure on 2 hours because then I can take my time with specific load tests and not just WOT tuning.
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Old 06-20-2015, 09:34 AM   #12
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@Thirdgen89GTA you know how to tune OBDI vehicles?
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:06 PM   #13
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I am self learning myself. I've been reading every scrap of information I can find to teach myself.

But as long I keep the detonation. To a minimum I and have the wideband steam in the obd1 logs I'll eventually get there.
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Old 06-20-2015, 03:25 PM   #14
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They key is having a wideband. Whether you are tuning on the street or dyno you need a wideband otherwise you're just guessing
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Old 06-20-2015, 04:44 PM   #15
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So are you going to run Open or Closed Loop?
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:02 PM   #16
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I'm tuning closed loop w/maf hooked up. I want to keep the MAF if I can. I don't think I'll exceed the 512gm/s limit.

AFR 195cc heads
LE 231-239 on a 110LSA
ported everything
usual bolt-ons.
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Old 06-21-2015, 11:23 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirdgen89GTA View Post
I'm tuning closed loop w/maf hooked up. I want to keep the MAF if I can. I don't think I'll exceed the 512gm/s limit.

AFR 195cc heads
LE 231-239 on a 110LSA
ported everything
usual bolt-ons.
Well C/L means you'll be using BLMs not WB AFR.if you haven't visited
thirdgen.org, you should. One of the best sources for tuning information when it comes to OBD1 GM engine controls.
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:31 PM   #18
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The wbo2 info came from TGO. Been on those forums for years. Blm 128=stoich on GM pcms. But it's also an average. So you pipe the wbo2 into the pcm and log it time stamped with map, MAF, and the other values.

May not always want STOICH, like for highway cruising it may be more beneficial at low MAP values to advance timing and run a bit lean.

Bigger cams want more advance at low MAP values. I'm only running 10.7:1, so my car should be plenty happy running 93 Octane.
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirdgen89GTA View Post
The wbo2 info came from TGO. Been on those forums for years. Blm 128=stoich on GM pcms. But it's also an average. So you pipe the wbo2 into the pcm and log it time stamped with map, MAF, and the other values.

May not always want STOICH, like for highway cruising it may be more beneficial at low MAP values to advance timing and run a bit lean.

Bigger cams want more advance at low MAP values. I'm only running 10.7:1, so my car should be plenty happy running 93 Octane.
Well actually, not really. It's a misconception to think that 128 is = stoich.
For starters, stoich here is more like 14.2:1 w the 10%. The cal probably needs that modified from 14.7. I am more familiar w Speed Density than MAF but really they are two different ways of calcing air flow. One direct, one derived.
So you could start off keeping the cal in Open Loop and use the WB to rough in the tables, but then enabling Closed Loop and using the BLMs to get part throttle and idle on the spot.
Also, what overlap does the cam have? You very likely will need to address idle since most times the ECM is misinterpreting the fresh air drawn into the chamber and out the exhaust as a lean condition . Again, this is in Closed Loop.
Also need to disable functions like DFCO, EGR, Canister to tune properly. Min Air adjustment is also VERY important for proper IAC operation.
Just another note for now, and that deals w the correct Injector Offset v Volts.
Are these the stock injectors or aftermarket?
Some thought starters.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Well actually, not really. It's a misconception to think that 128 is = stoich.
For starters, stoich here is more like 14.2:1 w the 10%. The cal probably needs that modified from 14.7. I am more familiar w Speed Density than MAF but really they are two different ways of calcing air flow. One direct, one derived.
So you could start off keeping the cal in Open Loop and use the WB to rough in the tables, but then enabling Closed Loop and using the BLMs to get part throttle and idle on the spot.
Also, what overlap does the cam have? You very likely will need to address idle since most times the ECM is misinterpreting the fresh air drawn into the chamber and out the exhaust as a lean condition . Again, this is in Closed Loop.
Also need to disable functions like DFCO, EGR, Canister to tune properly. Min Air adjustment is also VERY important for proper IAC operation.
Just another note for now, and that deals w the correct Injector Offset v Volts.
Are these the stock injectors or aftermarket?
Some thought starters.
I already modified the offset tables based on the Ford Spec sheets. Injector constant has been adjusted to match pressure and flow.

I've already tuned out all of the emissions stuff since its long gone. DFCO I haven't touched.

Charcoal canister cannot be disabled on LT1's, you turn off the code. Every thread I've read on those who have changed the constants to cause it to never get in use has has BLM issues because apparently the LT1 PCM does something with that constant for other fueling.
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:48 PM   #21
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Quote:
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I already modified the offset tables based on the Ford Spec sheets. Injector constant has been adjusted to match pressure and flow.

I've already tuned out all of the emissions stuff since its long gone. DFCO I haven't touched.

Charcoal canister cannot be disabled on LT1's, you turn off the code. Every thread I've read on those who have changed the constants to cause it to never get in use has has BLM issues because apparently the LT1 PCM does something with that constant for other fueling.
Well you r moving in the right direction. Disable DFCO otherwise you'll be looking to add fuel in the high vacuum areas of the fueling table. Also once again, if you are using the WB to tune, need to prevent Closed Loop from activating.
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:38 PM   #22
 
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Can't you ditch the obd1 computer run ls computer with coil on plug. Just curious
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:22 AM   #23
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Yeah, for $1k+
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:55 AM   #24
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megasquirt would do it for just under 1k
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:38 AM   #25
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What would you use for cam position sensor with megasquirt? Or crank position on 92-95? Only the 96/97 came with a crank sensor
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