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Old 05-23-2013, 12:58 AM   #1
 
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Default If You Had A Sbc 400 to build

I'm looking for set up's.
If you had a good shape stock sbc 400 how would you build it?

I was thinking bore to 406 use the sbc350 size crank and 6.0 rods, afr 195cc heads with pistons to make 11.0.1 compression. A cam around 270 duration 550 lift. Afr composite intake with Holley 750DP. Forged bottom end of course. Should make about 500HP on pump gas right?

But how would you build it?
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:22 AM   #2
 
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First off if you had a 400 block, 4.125" bore, and put a 350 crank, 3.480" stroke you would get 377 cid. Plus 350 crank journals are smaller than the 400. So if you only have a block i would go with either a stock stroke 400 crank, 3.750" stroke, 414 with a 3.875" stroke or 427 with a 4.000" stroke. It all depends how deep your pockets are. As for compression it all depends on what you are doing with it. Street.....10:1 max. Street/strip 11:1 race how high do you wanna go?
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:36 PM   #3
 
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Well i was looking at threw scat 9000 crank and 6.0 rods for the bottom end.
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:41 PM   #4
 
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Good choice. I have a 404 (0.020" over) in my chevelle, 12.9:1 compression, dart 230 heads, BIG roller cam and on pump gas!!!!! My cam profile allows me to run on pump gas with no problems. I have an eagle crank with 6" H beam rods
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:51 PM   #5
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If anyone needs a 400, I have one I'd sell cheap.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:03 PM   #6
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i dont think ill ever get rid of my 4 bolt 511 casting 400....so hard to find with good virgin bores....and no cracks

if your not gonna rev the snot out of it...stick with the 400 mains for lower cost.
those 350 mains spacers are expensive for what amounts to a slight reduction in bearing surface speed

dont go 60 over if you can avoid it...
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3800>all other technology ever
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:58 PM   #7
 
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I had a 511 casting 400 and sold it. The machine shop i took it to didn't line bore it right so i kept spinning bearings. The guy i sold it to said he could fix it so i let it go for $100. Another machine shop told me that it would cost ma $1000+ to fix.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:08 PM   #8
 
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The one i just found is compete short block for $100 and is clean probably could just assemble the rest and go.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:15 PM   #9
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Spend the money and check for cracks now before you spend the money and throw it away
Depending on the year in the castings some of them can be very prone to crack
I got mine from a 72 Monte Carlo with 85000 miles on it....
spent 400 just to make sure everything was good with mag and dye inspection
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:28 AM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc View Post
Spend the money and check for cracks now before you spend the money and throw it away
Depending on the year in the castings some of them can be very prone to crack
I got mine from a 72 Monte Carlo with 85000 miles on it....
spent 400 just to make sure everything was good with mag and dye inspection
Yes definitely a very good idea. You don't wanna be pulling the engine out because you skipped on something or went cheap
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:35 AM   #11
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Don't bore it if you don't have too, your not gaining much to lose the bore strength. keep the stock crank, go bigger with the heads, look for 230 runners or bigger. solid roller is a huge plus. make sure your valve train is up for it though. and you are not going use 6.0L rods, your using 6.000'' inch rods for a SBC.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:04 PM   #12
 
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If youre looking for 500HP/500TQ at the crank...

Take the 400 block...

Dont go over .40 over on the bore
Plug the steam holes
use a 400 crank. eagle makes a nice piece
6" rods, eagle again.
IMO i would use a 215 or 220 Dart head since youll be keeping the rpms below 6500
Vic Jr intake (the afr piece is nice but not worth the money in this application)
Hyd flat tappet cam (something along the 305H but have it ground on a 4/7 swap)
Dont need to go crazy with compression, 10:1 will be fine.

Youll have a dead nuts reliable (and LOW maintenance) combo that you can drive everywhere and runs beautiful on 93octane.

Just my 2cents.
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:37 PM   #13
 
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Plug the stream holes? That's new to me I've always heard about people drilling them out for better flow.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:12 PM   #14
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keep it simple, just use 400 sbc head gaskets and most aftermarket heads already have the steam holes in place, but check to make sure.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:22 PM   #15
 
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Plug the stream holes? That's new to me I've always heard about people drilling them out for better flow.
Plugging them doesnt affect cooling. It strengthens the deck and cylinder wall since those steam holes are prone to cracking.

It doesnt really add a lot of cost to machine work that youll be doing to the block either.


Not sure why anyone would drill them larger, they are already very close to the cylinder walls.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:21 PM   #16
 
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I don't know?

Picking the block up tomorrow and gonna weigh my options. Looking at maybe the sportsman heads.

maybe 256/[email protected], .as much lift as .580ish anyway 106 lsa

Stock crank with 5.7 rods arp bolts all balanced. Hypereutectic pistons. 4600 stall converter with 3.73 rear gears.

6400-6500 shift point
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:16 PM   #17
 
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Here's the foundation
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:01 AM   #18
 
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I'm putting a 400 replacement block into my chevelle. I just went the standard head cam pistons route and spent a little extra for all the trimmings.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:02 AM   #19
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i would sell my 400 parts and buy LSx parts.

/thread
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:05 AM   #20
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That reminds me, I still need to sell my 400 and 350 blocks. Come take these things, Jeff!
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:37 AM   #21
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ya dont say
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:02 PM   #22
 
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Possibly interested in the 350 block I would like to do up one for my boat this winter
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