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Broken Driveshaft, couple questions.

Bones

Don't call me late for dinner!!!
Dec 29, 2009
421
0
Nw Burbs
Ok so it was a beautiful day today so I took the SS out for a spin. I have been noticing a popping noise when I down shift or round a corner quick. So my theory was until it gets more serious and reoccurring leave it be.

So today I pull a U turn on a open stretch of road gun it and boom! Big pop noise and the car started vibrating and shaking bad. I was able to nurse the car home and every gear worked fine so I don't think there is anything wrong with the trans I PRAY (rebuilt from RPMspeed).

What I do notice is that going over bumps the car makes pop and rattle noises cause of the drive shaft I just hope nothing else is wrong.

So here's the aftermath from what I see so far...

ds2.jpg


ds3.jpg


photo.jpg


Questions...

1) Should I go with a steel LS1 drive shaft or get another aluminum? Car isn't crazy powerful. Dynoed 391 hp with small cam and 243 heads bolt ons etc... I just don't want to go through this again.

2). I noticed the drivers rear wheel will not move when I have the car up in the air, I can spin the passenger rear wheel but not the drivers rear. Suggestions? I'm hoping its cause of the drive shaft. It's weird that it's locked up but when I was driving it obviously moved freely, wasn't dragging.

3). What are signs of a blown differential? There's no fluids on the ground, no leaks, when I nursed it home only noise I heard was the popping and vibration from the drive shaft. At lower speeds there was no noise nursing it home.

Finally, car has a Weird fn stance now like it's a 4x4, again hope that's cause of the drive shaft haha f*** me.

Any help from past experience is greatly appreciated.
 

Bones

Don't call me late for dinner!!!
Dec 29, 2009
421
0
Nw Burbs
Damn that sucks.

Running a stock torque arm? I have a stocker sitting around if you want it.

Yeah it was a stock one, I don't know I was thinking of hunting down a used BMR or UMI etc... I just don't want to go through this again. I'd imagine in time through stock replacements I'll be back in the same boat down the road. I'll let you know though, thanks def appreciate the offer.
 

Pewter-Camaro

TCG Elite Member
May 28, 2011
5,791
11,116
South of Wisconsin.
That is not a normal looking stock AL DS failure. Usually the stock AL ones tear completely in half. Yours is just Bent. The fact one of the wheels is locked may mean the Diff gave out and the driveline shock bent the DS. Guessing its a 10 bolt? Might be the diff is scattered to the point where the Pass side axle is not getting power at all and spinning freely and the diff is pushing all the power to the driver side. Get that diff cover off and see whats up. at this point I'd wait to get any parts until you open up that Diff but a Stock Steel DS with some new u-joints will be fine and cheap just Don't get another stock Aluminum one.
 

wolfe

in black sheep's clothing
Jun 2, 2008
17,632
333
Si Oh Em Pee Tee Oh En

Bones

Don't call me late for dinner!!!
Dec 29, 2009
421
0
Nw Burbs
Figured out the damages today. At first I thought it was a caliper locking up the one wheel, because soon as I took off both calipers (disassembling the 10 bolt) I could spin the gears and everything was working fine. Soon as I took the cover off I spun everything around and inspected....

Found a cracked tooth on the ring gear. Foundout I was missing a fn bolt as well for that matter, I have a 9 bolt LOL. Somehow one of the upper bolts worked it's way out. That was just weird. I don't know how that happened then again this is the first summer for the car, who knows what the previous owner tried to do.

Anyways, I have a new 10 bolt with just 3.42s in the garage weighting to go in. That's this weekends project. And next weekend I want to pick up another Drive shaft balance it at Suburban DL and p/u a UMI torque arm at Speedinc. Almost back up and running!!!
 
I remember when my alum drive shaft snapped in two. Lets just say my electric cutout was installed in a bad spot and rotated a little and a bolt ended up catching on the drive shaft. $300-$400 later for a steel one from Speed Inc and a helpful uncle helped fix that issue.

Moral of the story, don't let the wrong person install stuff on your car or learn to do it yourself. It's better than paying someone to do it wrong.
 
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