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NEW Clutch time!
- Thread starter svtslowcar
- Start date
Centerforce DFX clutch and Fidanza flywheel
Ford Racing TOB
Steeda Quick Release Quadrant and Locking Firewall adjuster.
Clutch freeplay kit.
All the parts are somewhere around $1000
You will probably want to do a Liberty 26 spline input shaft while you're at it. 10 spline shafts don't seem to be holding up too well. figure $250 or so for the shaft and another $50 to install it.
Dan
Ford Racing TOB
Steeda Quick Release Quadrant and Locking Firewall adjuster.
Clutch freeplay kit.
All the parts are somewhere around $1000
You will probably want to do a Liberty 26 spline input shaft while you're at it. 10 spline shafts don't seem to be holding up too well. figure $250 or so for the shaft and another $50 to install it.
Dan
well i already have fiore quick release clutch quadrant and F/W adjuster. dont have the other stuff though. thanks for the help.
I have almost the exact same setup and it is great.
Yes it sounds like a child banging pots and pans together if you let it chatter. Stop and go traffic can be challenging but otherwise bulletproof setup. Handles my 620+ whp no problem.
what does that consist of/do? would it work on older cobras?
seems like most guys run the centerforce DFX. i have riden shotgun in 2 cobras with that clutch. it does chatter somtimes from a stop but u have to make sacrifices when u start running over 500hp.
You have a steeda quick release quadrant? If so, and it still chatters, then dont try to slip the clutch from a stop. Its on or off.
When you install an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster, you loose the return spring function built into the factory quadrant.
This kit restores the spring funtion to the clutch linkage and eliminates the sloppy/loose pedal because the replacement quadrant has no spring.
As a side benefit, it keeps the TOB away from the PP fingers (assuming the clutch is adjusted correctly), except when in actual use.
This kit restores the spring funtion to the clutch linkage and eliminates the sloppy/loose pedal because the replacement quadrant has no spring.
As a side benefit, it keeps the TOB away from the PP fingers (assuming the clutch is adjusted correctly), except when in actual use.
im not running any adjuster on my car.
so what am i supposed to do dump the clutch from a stop? the car will die if i just let of the clutch w/o any gas. I have to rev it to at least 1500 to get it to go anywhere w/o chatter. Its been like that since day one. and my TOB is noisey as a mofo.
It may not be the clutch facing material at all if it is as bad as you say. Both CenterForce and Spec had a bad run of pressure plates several years ago.
The contact surface was just slighly warped or mis-machined.
But driving the DFX does take some getting used to and, assuming you don't have a bad PP or some other problem, it should eventually get to the point where it will engage as smoothly as a DF and with not chatter.
bad pp?
well i've had it on the car for 6K and it still acts the same way it did as day 1. I broke it in . Easy city driving for 500 miles.
Steel is actually better for drag racing. You will be able to launch easier since you have such a heavy car. Alumnium is more of a high performance race flywheel for lighter racing track cars. I used a aluminum flywheel for a while the only differnce i saw was that it would rev quicker and that it was actually touchier. Steel or billet is a much better feel with better launching for a street/strip car. It actually got easier to launch when i went back to the billet.
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