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hj16

hj16

Tasty!
Mar 1, 2004
9,788
21
  • #1
    Going along with the Body Shop thread this is part 2 of the "Hank's car needs TLC" series.


    Transmission

    Last fall I began to have slight rare issues with the clutch slipping horribly in cooler temps. Usually when the car heated up or the weather heated up this issue would go away. Well, the last 500 miles or so on the car have seen more occurrences except now it has also added the occasional WOT hesitation. This is a stock clutch that has seen 27,000 miles, 90% of which with just under 500rwhp/tq. It has also seen 4 drivers learn stick on it. No firewall adjuster or clutch quadrant, all stock.

    Sticking with the tranny, my car has always been a bitch with getting into 1st gear. 60% of the time is goes in smooth, the rest it feels completely locked out. I tolerated this for the longest time but I just can't fucking stand it anymore. Combine that with the feeling that Im driving a dump truck with how rough and noisy the gear changes are I'm looking for remedies. Stock shifter, no gaskets, original fluids.

    I was thinking of seeing if the clutch is simply a case of needing adjustment, but I have a feeling like I'd be fighting for a lost cause. I've been out of the game for a while, so I don;t really know what is the latest and greatest anymore. Ive driven a DF, DFX and RAM clutch'd cars and liked the Centerforce pieces better. I'd like a setup I can grow into... maybe to the neighborhood of 600rwtq, more if Adam keeps hounding me. I was thinking maybe a DFX with a 26spline upgrade. And while Im back there installing a LDC cooling mod (can I still get them anywhere?) Do I really need a firewall adjuster?

    As for the shifting issues Im wondering if it could be as easy as new fluid and adjusting the stops. Then for the noise maybe just some foam padding to deaden the tunnel noise?


    ---------------------------------------------------
    Suspension/Brakes

    Ive noticed lately how loose the car feels over bumps and uneven pavement. I've always thought of getting Full Length SubFrame Connectors, but have never really gotten around to it. Im thinking this is the sign that it needs to get done ASAP before Im left driving a wet noodle. I was looking at the MM pieces, the XL Bars in particular. $150 seems pretty unbeatable.



    Finally Brakes... anyone have any recommendations on a suitable near stock replacment? The stock setup is starting to lose its bite. I'd be fine with a small upgrade, but nothing crazy. Just looking at Rotors and Pads.


    --------------------------------------------------
    Other

    The other thoughts are doing an Engine Coolant flushing, IC Fluid flushing, new exhaust gaskets and trying to eliminate that goddamn header leak.





    ...wow, that was kinda long
    Click to read more...
     
    Flatliner

    Flatliner

    I'm kind of a big deal...
    Mar 3, 2004
    35,000
    0
  • #2
    FW and Quadrant a must for ease of shifting. This may spark a fountain of youth for a short period, but the real fix is new clutch. If you plan on launching the pig hard at the track, then DFX w/26 spline. Definitley change fluids, but unless your tranny is grinding like mine, most likely it's okay. If it's sticking in gear start saving.

    Pads and rotors, I keep simple and still help on the street and the track. Rotors from tirerack and pads from murrays. Simple and easy.
     
    hj16

    hj16

    Tasty!
    Mar 1, 2004
    9,788
    21
  • #3
    Flatliner said:
    FW and Quadrant a must for ease of shifting......If you plan on launching the pig hard at the track, then DFX w/26 spline. Definitley change fluids, but unless your tranny is grinding like mine, most likely it's okay. If it's sticking in gear start saving.
    Click to expand...
    Okay... so who should I go with for the FW and Quadrant? Fiore pretty much the best thing going? Lethal has the FW and Quadrant in a kit going for $95

    The pig won't be launched hard at the track for a while... but maybe one summer down the road. Right now she's still a DD warrior with the occasional street romp. I'm just looking for a street friendly clutch that will be able to last as a DD and take some major abuse later down the road.

    Luckily it isn't grinding and isnt stuck IN gear.
     
    Wiked03

    Wiked03

    CSVT OG
    Mar 1, 2004
    29,341
    10
    Louisville, KY
  • #4
    The T-56 is a notchy sonofabitch... there is no way around it, only ways to make it more tolerable. I went through just about every brand of shifter before I gave in and realized that it is the TRANS that makes shifting suck, not the shifter. That being said, I still love my MGW and think it was the best out of the shifters I tried.

    Firewall adjuster and quadrant are a must. I would do the steeda quick release quad and the Fiore or Billetflow adjuster.

    Don't do the DF clutch, I burnt mine up with the quickness. The DFX is holding up great so far, and I love it with the steel flywheel... no chatter at all. I am actually thinking about trying the RAM when the DFX goes.

    As for brakes... stick with the brembo replacement rotors. Slotted and drilled is a waste on a street car IMO. I tried the hawk pads and they were dusty and noisey. Have the EBC greenstuff pads now and like them, but they are a horrible green color so I had to paint the backs of em black.
     
    M

    Mr. Unknown

    Member
    Oct 26, 2005
    24
    0
  • #5
    I've had MM full length sub frames and I just got Custom ones put in with a DSSL and its a world of differnce. Just like going from no Sub frames to the MM ones. I wouldn't cheap out on the Sub Frames def worth the $$$. The new once makes the car feel A LOT better than the MM ones.
     
    Flatliner

    Flatliner

    I'm kind of a big deal...
    Mar 3, 2004
    35,000
    0
  • #7
    hj16 said:
    Okay... so who should I go with for the FW and Quadrant? Fiore pretty much the best thing going? Lethal has the FW and Quadrant in a kit going for $95

    The pig won't be launched hard at the track for a while... but maybe one summer down the road. Right now she's still a DD warrior with the occasional street romp. I'm just looking for a street friendly clutch that will be able to last as a DD and take some major abuse later down the road.

    Luckily it isn't grinding and isnt stuck IN gear.
    Click to expand...


    Steeda quadrant Carl mentioned and any FW adjuster does its purpose. I had bought a Fiore, but they were on backorder and I ended up buying one from Doug, once installed, I didn't need the other one when I got and sold it.

    If you want to grow into a clutch then I would go DFX, but remember the clutch is heavy on the pedal feel ;)

    Oh and I run MM FLSC too... :biggthump
     
    Dragon03

    Dragon03

    Super hated on
    Mar 28, 2007
    27,350
    2
  • #11
    Wiked03 said:
    Actually I would stick with the stock cable... all the aftermarket ones are prone to breaking.
    Click to expand...

    Flatliner said:
    +1 one... stay stock cable.
    Click to expand...

    I havent had any issues but to each their own I must have miss read your posts:eek:h:. I couldnt stand the stock cable too much clutch chatter but then again it could have attributed to the clutch I have:dunno:
     
    Dragon03

    Dragon03

    Super hated on
    Mar 28, 2007
    27,350
    2
  • #17
    Flatliner said:
    Larry and I run the fidanza with replaceable insert.

    Ben, the reason people shy away from aftermarket cables, is they tend to break/ fray very easily. I had one snap on me and was scared!
    Click to expand...

    I would agree with you 100% if you were talking about BBK, just like yours snapped I had 2 of them that collasped inside the cable and I lost my clutch:eek:....I have had the Steeda for 2 years now and no problemo......but yeah when the cable went both times scared the shit outta me...and Im with you guys I also have the Fidenza setup:biggthump
     
    dun4791

    dun4791

    gypsy is a whore!
    Mar 2, 2004
    4,536
    4,258
    What ain't no country I ever heard of
  • #19
    Hank, my opinion
    Fidanza Flywheel
    Centerforce DFX/TOB
    Billetflow FW adjuster
    Steeda quick release quad
    Stock cable
    Get a haircut.
    Libertys gears 26 spline/ Dan and I have only had to shim one out of about 10 installs.
    Pilot bearing is probably ok, just replace if needed. Same with tube...inspect it for full weld and no wear.
    GM synchromesh
    You cant get an LDC coolant mod anymore, but you can get a coolant mod from DAgostino racing that was fabricated by me and Dan. Or I could hook you up there as well.
    Never eat green MnMs
    stock Ford front pads, some of the cheaper ones seem to squeak sometimes
    definately frame connectors
    good luck with the header leak
     
    T

    TCG Member 5219

    TCG Elite Member
    Mar 22, 2005
    12,447
    18
  • #21
    Before you buy anything for the clutch, take the car to the dealer and have them check this tube that can break that guides the clutch cable. From what they told me, it comes off the bell housing and can break causing extra slack in the cable and in turn making it very hard to shift at high RPMs. There is a TSB and an updated part to stop this from happening. My old 04 cobra had the issue, and it completely changed the shifting and took me from running 13.1 to 11.9 because all the sudden I could shift it right. Then make sure your pedal is adjusted correctly. I can show you how to do that.
     
    Dana

    Dana

    Bluesmobile
    Mar 2, 2004
    2,619
    0
  • #23
    Jiggy_One said:
    Before you buy anything for the clutch, take the car to the dealer and have them check this tube that can break that guides the clutch cable. From what they told me, it comes off the bell housing and can break causing extra slack in the cable and in turn making it very hard to shift at high RPMs. There is a TSB and an updated part to stop this from happening. My old 04 cobra had the issue, and it completely changed the shifting and took me from running 13.1 to 11.9 because all the sudden I could shift it right. Then make sure your pedal is adjusted correctly. I can show you how to do that.
    Click to expand...


    The guy that told you that gave you some bad information. There is no tube for the clutch cable at the bellhousing, just an ear that sticks out of the side of the bellhousing to mount the cable to.
    Possibly, what he was referring to is the guide tube for the TOB which HAS been a problem for these transmissions. They do break and do make shifting difficult when broken, but there are a lot more symptoms when they break too.
     
    FuelSlut

    FuelSlut

    FK RED STAR
    Nov 9, 2005
    1,969
    0
  • #24
    dun4791 said:
    Hank, my opinion
    Fidanza Flywheel
    Centerforce DFX/TOB
    Billetflow FW adjuster
    Steeda quick release quad
    Stock cable
    Get a haircut.
    Libertys gears 26 spline/ Dan and I have only had to shim one out of about 10 installs.
    Pilot bearing is probably ok, just replace if needed. Same with tube...inspect it for full weld and no wear.
    GM synchromesh
    You cant get an LDC coolant mod anymore, but you can get a coolant mod from DAgostino racing that was fabricated by me and Dan. Or I could hook you up there as well.
    Never eat green MnMs
    stock Ford front pads, some of the cheaper ones seem to squeak sometimes
    definately frame connectors
    good luck with the header leak
    Click to expand...

    Yea mine had to be shimmed:D
     
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