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Old 05-09-2007, 07:59 PM   #1
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Default Clutch Height Pedal Adjuster

anyone know of any in stock locally?
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Old 05-10-2007, 06:39 AM   #2
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I wouldn't do it.
There is not enough travel in the linkage as it is and the height adjuster removes even more.
Most guys that have tried it have gone back to the stock setup after wasting a ton of time and money.
It can be done, but the car deosn't shift right or the clutch wears out prematurely.

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Old 05-10-2007, 07:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana
I wouldn't do it.
There is not enough travel in the linkage as it is and the height adjuster removes even more.
Most guys that have tried it have gone back to the stock setup after wasting a ton of time and money.
It can be done, but the car deosn't shift right or the clutch wears out prematurely.

Dan
my reason for wanting to do it, is that my clutch releases almost at the very top.. it did so with the stock clutch and now with the DFX.

my cousin's '03 releases near the bottom and has less travel.. I've driven his car a number of times down the track and like his clutch feel much better than mine.

any advice?
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:28 AM   #4
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If you do decide to go with one go with Steeda. The first one I used was from BBK and it took a crap right by the firewall adjuster went to BBK and they said it must have been defective well ok they sent another one and it did the same thing , I have had the Steeda clutch cable on for 3 months now and have no trouble with it and my clutch releases at about half way with the firewall adjuster and if you want a firewall adjuster use Steedas as well....BBK sucks in that department too.
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:39 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jack
my reason for wanting to do it, is that my clutch releases almost at the very top.. it did so with the stock clutch and now with the DFX.

my cousin's '03 releases near the bottom and has less travel.. I've driven his car a number of times down the track and like his clutch feel much better than mine.

any advice?
Yes, adjust the clutch correctly.
If it is grabbing that close to the top, it isn't set right.
Put some freeplay in it, the engagement point will move further down the pedal stroke.

I assume you already have a quadrant and firewall adjuster.

Dan
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon03
If you do decide to go with one go with Steeda. The first one I used was from BBK and it took a crap right by the firewall adjuster went to BBK and they said it must have been defective well ok they sent another one and it did the same thing , I have had the Steeda clutch cable on for 3 months now and have no trouble with it and my clutch releases at about half way with the firewall adjuster and if you want a firewall adjuster use Steedas as well....BBK sucks in that department too.
I currently have the stock cable. and the Steeda Firewall adjuster, and quick release quadrant.

another thing of note is that the firewall adjuster is nearly fully screwed out at this point.
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jack
I currently have the stock cable. and the Steeda Firewall adjuster, and quick release quadrant.

another thing of note is that the firewall adjuster is nearly fully screwed out at this point.
Screw it in, towards the firewall, that will add some freeplay.

Adjust it until you can pull the cable out of the adjuster about an 1/8 inch or a little more.

If you keep it like it is, the clutch will be toast shortly. It has to be slipping now, whether you feel it or not.

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Old 05-10-2007, 08:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana
Screw it in, towards the firewall, that will add some freeplay.

Adjust it until you can pull the cable out of the adjuster about an 1/8 inch or a little more.

If you keep it like it is, the clutch will be toast shortly. It has to be slipping now, whether you feel it or not.

Dan
+1 I agree that if you want the clutch to be at the bottom of the pedal you will need to screw the firewall adjuster back in until you have the 1/8 inch....I went thru and had that set up (per manufacturer recommendation) and what was happening with mine is I was getting alot of chirping/clatter noise from the TOB making contact and I got fed up with it and have my clutch right about half to almost 3/4 before it engages...will it shorten the life of my clutch? I dont think so I have had my clutch for 2 years now and the only thing I had to replace was the TOB. If you didnt see my post about month ago I hate my clutch anyway... stupid Fidenza...
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana
Screw it in, towards the firewall, that will add some freeplay.

Adjust it until you can pull the cable out of the adjuster about an 1/8 inch or a little more.

If you keep it like it is, the clutch will be toast shortly. It has to be slipping now, whether you feel it or not.

Dan
oh it's slipping, hard core.. anytime I give it 75% throttle or more above 5K rpms.. I've tried adjusting the adjuster every which way with the same slipping result.


I'm dropping the trans today or tomorrow and replacing the clutch with the one Vince has.. anything else I should replace while it's out?

the 26 spline, TOB, Fluidanza flywheel all have about 6K miles
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jack
oh it's slipping, hard core.. anytime I give it 75% throttle or more above 5K rpms.. I've tried adjusting the adjuster every which way with the same slipping result.


I'm dropping the trans today or tomorrow and replacing the clutch with the one Vince has.. anything else I should replace while it's out?

the 26 spline, TOB, Fluidanza flywheel all have about 6K miles
Since you have access I would replace the TOB they are cheap and I would consider it preventative maitence.
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Old 05-10-2007, 10:37 AM   #11
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It definitey needs to be adjusted into the firewall like Dana said. I may just have to do my own clutch install in the next week.

Any advice on the 26 spline switch out?
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:11 AM   #12
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I have a Maximum Motorsports one. Didn't notice much difference and it was a pain to adjust. The clutch was letting out way too early, at the bottom. or way too high. I still have it in my car set up at stock height, or close to it. I would sell it to you, but just don't have time to take it out. How soon do you want it?
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatliner
It definitey needs to be adjusted into the firewall like Dana said. I may just have to do my own clutch install in the next week.

Any advice on the 26 spline switch out?
There a couple of write-ups on ModFords about the install. I did one of them.
Try a search over there.

Dan
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jack
oh it's slipping, hard core.. anytime I give it 75% throttle or more above 5K rpms.. I've tried adjusting the adjuster every which way with the same slipping result.


I'm dropping the trans today or tomorrow and replacing the clutch with the one Vince has.. anything else I should replace while it's out?

the 26 spline, TOB, Fluidanza flywheel all have about 6K miles
As Dragon said, change the TOB. It's probably damaged by this time anyway.

Dan
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana
As Dragon said, change the TOB. It's probably damaged by this time anyway.

Dan
I have a centerforce one in there right now..

any specific brand I should get or stay away from?
any place I can locally get one?
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGONTS
I have a Maximum Motorsports one. Didn't notice much difference and it was a pain to adjust. The clutch was letting out way too early, at the bottom. or way too high. I still have it in my car set up at stock height, or close to it. I would sell it to you, but just don't have time to take it out. How soon do you want it?
let me see how things go with the clutch swap, and the resulting pedal position.

it seems most people aren't too fond of the pedal height adjuster
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:27 AM   #17
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I wont beat a dead horse well yeah I will stay away from FIDENZA!!!!!!!! I have a 3.2 and it sucks like there is no tomorrow!!!!!! I am okay with the alumnium flywheel of theirs but their clutches are no mas
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:33 AM   #18
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here's what I got with my research yesterday:

·Don't pull the starter until after the trans is out, but before the bellhousing. Easier access to the starter bolts.

·Drain the trans before you drop the Driveshaft, you will be draining it anyway with the input shaft install. Makes a smaller mess that way.

·Leave the crossmember bolted to the trans, just take the bolts out to the frame.

·Although many have had good luck with just swapping the input shafts, I recommend using a dial mike to measure end play of the mainshaft.

·A mid length 15 mm socket with a universal fits the exhaust manifold bolts nicely.
jack up the front of the motor, under the crank pulley, to tip the motor down in the back. Makes access to the bolts and reinstallation of the trans easier. The angle is better for alignment.

·Disconnect the battery first!!

·Find a 13 mm (or is it 12 mm?) 12 point 1/2 inch drive socket for the driveshaft bolts. Use this with a short extension and impact gun to remove the 4 bolts. Reinstall them with Locktite.

·Use Locktite on the flywheel bolts.

·Heat the center of the flywheel with a torch before installing. It also helps to align the bolt holes (and mark it) prior to this so you know just where it goes on the crank. It will only fit one way.

·I made a couple of alignment pins from old crank bolts to guide the FW on during the install. You could probably skio this unless you plan on doing more than one of these installs.

·Lay the pressure plate on the flywheel to determine which holes receive the 3 alignment pins. There is more than one set of holes.

·Some of the trans to bellhousing bolts are best accessed by going over the top of the trans with a long extension.

·The top starter bolt can be accessed best by using a short (maybe 8 inch?) extension from the very front of the starter. You can guide it onto the bolt head with your finger. An extension with a wobble end helps too.

·Lubricate everything before reassembly with white grease: shaft splines, disc splines, TOB guide tube, pilot bearing. Very Small amount

Here’s the part numbers: Original Ford #s
N808969-S100 quantity 6 Pressure plate to flywheel (should be replaced)
F6ZZ-6379-AA quantity 8 Flywheel to crankshaft
N800594-S100 quantity 4 Driveshaft to flange

Helpful Torque Specs:

Flywheel Bolts: 64ft-lbs
Pressure Plate to Flywheel: 33ft-lbs
Driveshaft: 83ft-lbs + Loctite
Bellhousing: 60ft-lbs
Transmission to Bellhousing: 40ft-lbs
Starter Bolts: 30ft-lbs
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:35 AM   #19
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Any major brand of TOB should be fine. Nothing wrong with the Ford part other than the price may be higher. They all use pretty much the same bearing.

Dan
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