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Old 04-26-2007, 10:57 PM   #1
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Default Broke halfshaft now what?

Seems like once I fix something, another thing breaks. After countless hours of work finding out why my belt is flying of, this happens! This is car is driving my NUTS!

The story

I thought I fixed my belt issues and I was waiting for a break in the rain to take her out. Finally around 7ish the streets look good to go. I find a nice little stretch of road. I come to a stop put it in first, dump the clutch and go! The car reved up to 6500 like nobody's bussiness. Slame it into 2nd, it grabs hard, then the car fell flat on it's face, I reved it a few times and knew right away that I broke the half shaft. Never had ANY wheel hop with the car, this time or ANYTIME! I haven't even looked under the car yet. Called up my mom's boyfriend and had him tow me back to my house with his TrailBlazer. I was only about 1 mile away from home so it wasn't that bad. On the bright side of things, I just found out what those 2 extra holes are in our front bumper, next to the fog lights. They are for 2 toe straps to go thur so you don't mess your bumper up!

Great, after $1,000's into m engine my damn CV shafts take a crap on me. It couldn't happen at a better time, when I'm flat broke!

My options.

1. Send the broken one out to suburban driveline to see if they can fix it.
2. buy a brand new one from Steve over at tousely ford (anyone know cost?)
3. Buy Level 5's for $1300, $1300 that I DON'T HAVE! So I'm thinking option 3 is out unless I sell my life or something

Any input or commets would be great. Just really didn't need this right now! Seems like I've had a shit storm of problems with this beast...I gotta have some good luck coming to me soon...Please PRETTY Please!

Kevin
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:32 AM   #2
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Whore yourself out to fat chicks until you can buy a solid. From the way you describe how hard you are on your car that's the most realistic option.

I'd get the half shaft replaced( people sell them used all the time on here) and sell your IRS. Then get a built solid that will handle your needs.
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:35 AM   #3
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$225 for a new half-shaft from tousely.

dont waste your time or money on dss products. they have no clue and you'll be chasing hub and bearing problems with the level 5 setup, and inner joint problems with the level 2 setup. (and they wont stand behind it either)

if this is your daily driver and you're stuck high and dry, i have a new axle on the shelf i'll sell you so you can drive this weekend.
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:51 AM   #4
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I have two stock halfshafts in my garage, pm me if you're interested in one of them
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:52 AM   #5
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Buy one of the guys' used/new ones. The install isn't that big a deal. Takes a couple/few hours. The hub nut is torqued to something like 240 ft/lbs. so you'll need some big sockets/wrenches and/or a pipe to get it off. I don't know where you live but I do have a 250 lb. torque wrench if you need to borrow it.

If you don't want to do it yourself, I bet John [Shelby Guy] will do it for you for a reasonable price.
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:04 AM   #6
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2000 GT rear complete and stock. 60K miles, 3.27 gear. Trac-Loc. Comes with all of the control arms, springs, sway bar, calipers, rotors, clips for the E-brake cables. $500

1988 Turbo Coupe 8.8 housing and cover only. $50

31 spline Trac-Loc. 40K miles. Stock Explorer unit. $80

Email me at [email protected] or PM me. All items located in Davenport, IA 52803. I might be able to meet half way with-in reason.

Thanks.
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyn high again
Buy one of the guys' used/new ones. The install isn't that big a deal. Takes a couple/few hours. The hub nut is torqued to something like 240 ft/lbs. so you'll need some big sockets/wrenches and/or a pipe to get it off. I don't know where you live but I do have a 250 lb. torque wrench if you need to borrow it.

If you don't want to do it yourself, I bet John [Shelby Guy] will do it for you for a reasonable price.
couple hours?


I did both sides start to finish in just under an hour.

it's a piece of cake


I have the socket to get the hub nut off 36MM IRC, got it at Murrays
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:26 AM   #8
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i even make house calls
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyGuy
i even make house calls
John's "Spark Plug Thread and Half-Shaft Repair Service" ??
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyGuy
i even make house calls
Ill have to remember that!
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jack
couple hours?


I did both sides start to finish in just under an hour.

it's a piece of cake


I have the socket to get the hub nut off 36MM IRC, got it at Murrays
We changed a half shaft in the parking lot of Beech Bend Raceway [Bowling Green] so it wasn't ideal conditions. Come to think of it, some of the time was spent waiting for parts.
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:21 PM   #12
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Can we list the full tools needed... I need to make sure I have them with me when I go to the track.
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:02 PM   #13
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36mm socket
250 lb/ft capacity torque wrench
two 18mm wrenches
prybar
pitman arm puller
needle nosed pliers or other cotter pin remover (if using stock outer toe link rod end)
15mm wrench
regular screwdriver or some other way to remove the e-clip holding the e-brake cable to the caliper
channellocks to remove the e-brake cable from the caliper
a wheel puller might be necessary if the car has never been apart before.


remove cotter pin from toe link rod end
remove nut holding toe link rod end to knuckle with the 15mm wrench
using the pitman arm puller, pop the toe link rod end off the knuckle
remove the e-clip holding the cable to the caliper
remove cable end from e-brake cam on caliper
with the 15mm wrench, remove the caliper from its mounting bracket.
with the 36mm socket, remove the nut holding the axle to the hub
remove the lower control arm to knuckle bolt and nut with the two 18mm wrenches
pull up from the bottom of the knuckle, lifting it towards you and upwards, thus allowing you to push the axle out of the hub
remove lower shock bolt with the 18mm wrench
gently pry between the abs exciter and the differential housing to overcome the tension of the circlip holding the axle in
slide the axle out

you'll notice at no time did i mention a hammer. if a hammer sounds like a good idea, you suck at working on cars. the pitman arm puller is 10 times faster and only cost $20.

on edit: if the stub shaft wont come out of the hub, a $25 jc whitney wheel puller an be used to press it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatliner
Can we list the full tools needed... I need to make sure I have them with me when I go to the track.
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyGuy
36mm socket
250 lb/ft capacity torque wrench
two 18mm wrenches
prybar
pitman arm puller
needle nosed pliers or other cotter pin remover (if using stock outer toe link rod end)
15mm wrench
regular screwdriver or some other way to remove the e-clip holding the e-brake cable to the caliper
channellocks to remove the e-brake cable from the caliper
a wheel puller might be necessary if the car has never been apart before.


remove cotter pin from toe link rod end
remove nut holding toe link rod end to knuckle with the 15mm wrench
using the pitman arm puller, pop the toe link rod end off the knuckle
remove the e-clip holding the cable to the caliper
remove cable end from e-brake cam on caliper
with the 15mm wrench, remove the caliper from its mounting bracket.
with the 36mm socket, remove the nut holding the axle to the hub
remove the lower control arm to knuckle bolt and nut with the two 18mm wrenches
pull up from the bottom of the knuckle, lifting it towards you and upwards, thus allowing you to push the axle out of the hub
remove lower shock bolt with the 18mm wrench
gently pry between the abs exciter and the differential housing to overcome the tension of the circlip holding the axle in
slide the axle out

you'll notice at no time did i mention a hammer. if a hammer sounds like a good idea, you suck at working on cars. the pitman arm puller is 10 times faster and only cost $20.

Gonna print this out and go shopping! I owe you a
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:24 PM   #15
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Thanks everyone for the commets. Shebly guy, why do you hate dss products so much?

I'm going to stick with the IRS, Ill leave the SRA's for the drag racers. I bought a cobra because of the IRS.

Jack you go a PM.

Kevin
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:48 PM   #16
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because they consistently blame the installer when their parts aren't manufactured to fit properly. between the tapered hubs (that should be straight) and the wrong sized spacer on the level 5 kits, and the level 2 setup's propensity to eat the inner cv joint, i'll stick with the stockers, thanks.

nothing against their customer service, as they sent me a boot and a clamp for free when one tore on me.

you can bust a whooooooole lot of factory axles for the cost of a level 5 setup.
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyGuy
because they consistently blame the installer when their parts aren't manufactured to fit properly. between the tapered hubs (that should be straight) and the wrong sized spacer on the level 5 kits, and the level 2 setup's propensity to eat the inner cv joint, i'll stick with the stockers, thanks.

nothing against their customer service, as they sent me a boot and a clamp for free when one tore on me.

you can bust a whooooooole lot of factory axles for the cost of a level 5 setup.
Yea I agree you can bust a lot of stockers for the price of the level 5's. But I would pony up the $$$ to stop breaking down on the road/track. Did you read that thread on Mfords about how they went thur XXX amount of shafts and found the problem etc etc? What is your views on that?

FYI, I changed the shaft in about 10 mins flat, easiest thing in the world. Here are some pics. Kind of weird, It didn't break at the shaft into the bearing, or the CV it self but some how twisted the shaft it self. Never seen one break like this, or maybe I haven't searched hard enough













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Old 04-27-2007, 11:56 PM   #18
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Holy sh*t!!! I am so scared now!!!!

Shelbyguy, how much do you charge to install halfshafts so i will have an idea if i break mines
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:31 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyGuy
remove cotter pin from toe link rod end
remove nut holding toe link rod end to knuckle with the 15mm wrench
using the pitman arm puller, pop the toe link rod end off the knuckle
-->
remove the e-clip holding the cable to the caliper
remove cable end from e-brake cam on caliper
with the 15mm wrench, remove the caliper from its mounting bracket.
with the 36mm socket, remove the nut holding the axle to the hub.
Nice write up John.

It's been a while since I have swapped half shafts, but you might want to do the step highlighted above a little earlier in the process because if the half shaft is broken, you will have no easy way to prevent the shaft from rotating while loosening the nut, especially if you are not using an impact gun. The E-Brake will hold the shaft, so maybe just before you disconnect that?

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Old 04-28-2007, 08:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyGuy
with the 15mm wrench, remove the caliper from its mounting bracket.
Is that 15MM?

I thought the caliper to bracket was 12 or 13 and the bracket to knuckle was 15. I'm not sure, I got CRS.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:46 AM   #21
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you're right. the bracket has 15mm hex heads and the sliders are 14mm

SORRY CARL!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystic Terminator
Is that 15MM?

I thought the caliper to bracket was 12 or 13 and the bracket to knuckle was 15. I'm not sure, I got CRS.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:48 AM   #22
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point taken. thanks, dan!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana
Nice write up John.

It's been a while since I have swapped half shafts, but you might want to do the step highlighted above a little earlier in the process because if the half shaft is broken, you will have no easy way to prevent the shaft from rotating while loosening the nut, especially if you are not using an impact gun. The E-Brake will hold the shaft, so maybe just before you disconnect that?

Dan
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