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need smoother shifting
- Thread starter 03SonicBlueSNAKE
- Start date
Try changing the fluid first and make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. Then if it still does it, it's your synchros. Rebuild!
Anyway here's the shortlist of making your car shift better and more accurately:
1. MGW shifter
2. LDC clutch freeplay correction kit
3. Micro-click firewall adjust
4. Steeda red quick release clutch quadrant (since I read you want to race)
5. Royal Purple Synchromax transmission fluid (4.1 quarts)
If you need a new clutch, make a new post about what you plan to use it for and recommendations will be given, but right off that bat I can tell you you're going to need:
1. Clutch
2. Flywheel (I prefer aluminum, stock is steel)
3. 26-spline Input shaft upgrade
4. TOB and TOB sleeve (aftermarket like McLeod)
5. Pressure plate
Anyway here's the shortlist of making your car shift better and more accurately:
1. MGW shifter
2. LDC clutch freeplay correction kit
3. Micro-click firewall adjust
4. Steeda red quick release clutch quadrant (since I read you want to race)
5. Royal Purple Synchromax transmission fluid (4.1 quarts)
If you need a new clutch, make a new post about what you plan to use it for and recommendations will be given, but right off that bat I can tell you you're going to need:
1. Clutch
2. Flywheel (I prefer aluminum, stock is steel)
3. 26-spline Input shaft upgrade
4. TOB and TOB sleeve (aftermarket like McLeod)
5. Pressure plate
doodad said:
Adjusting your clutch is what will fix this. If anyone with an 03/04 cobra is having issues shifting at high RPM there is a simple and free fix that will make your shifts like butter. PM me your number, because its way to hard to explain on here and I will call you and talk you through it. You can see if you need the fix by how your clutch pedal is. If it engages almost right from the floor and at the top of the pedal push where the pedal rests its got a lot of play in it, then this is your fix that will have you power shifting like a mad man. I found it out from a tech at a ford dealer. Before the shifting fix, I was running 13's grinding second and third the whole way down the track....after the fix I ran a best of 11.93@117 on stock rubber powershifting the whole way. This aftermarket clutch quad and firewall adjuster is way over kill for what needs to be done. It takes two minutes and you will instantly feel the difference. I did it on mine and erik's (noavgcobra) cobra. His I didnt get a chance to make the change perm. but I will when I see him again. PM me your number and I will talk you though it.
Brian
Ah screw it, I do hate typing though.
OK, HERE IS THE SIMPLE FIX WITH THE PIC ADDED.
1. On your stomach with your head under the dash, push the clutch pedal down half way or so with your left hand.
2. with the clutch pedal down about half way, hold the hook i circled in the picture, with your thumb (of your right hand) in place so it doesnt move.....this will be difficult
3. pull the clutch pedal back up with your left hand while still trying to hold the hook in place with you right hand/thumb.
4. listen to the clicks. Just try a few clicks first then give the pedal a test push to see if you like the action better. Of you need to you can redo the above steps to get more of the slack out. If you take too much slack out, you can just pull the pedal up towards the steering wheel and it will let all the slack out. The part I put a red arrow pointing to is the stock adjuster with the teeth on it so you know what you are looking at.
5. What you are doing is taking the clutch cable slack out of the clutch pedal so it engages higher up and it fully engages the clutch so you can shift right. What you are experiencing now is your clutch cable may be stretched and not able to engage your clutch fully. There is also a TSB on the clutch cable guide tube that may be broken causing even more excessive clutch slack which my cobra had. My car had the broken guide tube at 28K miles. I almost traded it the day I bought it because I couldnt shift at high rpms ever and what was the point of all that power if you couldnt use it.
The thing you need to bend out of the way when you get the clutch where you want it is kinda in the circle with the hook. Its that small little metal plate that stands up under the plastic hook that holds it in place when you pull the pedal up so the stock adjuster gets disconnected from the hook part and the teeth spring back up causing your clutch to go back to the way it was. If you dont use a pair of pliers to bend it back out of the way, the minute you speedshift and your clutch comes snaping up the adjuster will be held back causing the gears/teeth to loose contact and your clutch cable will slack out again. I was doing this at stop lights it was happening so offen, thats when I went underneeth there with a flashlight to figure out what the hell was causing it to undo it self. Once you bend that metal plate back or forward, it should not make contact with the hook portion of your stock adjuster and your clutch pedal will stay.
OK, HERE IS THE SIMPLE FIX WITH THE PIC ADDED.
1. On your stomach with your head under the dash, push the clutch pedal down half way or so with your left hand.
2. with the clutch pedal down about half way, hold the hook i circled in the picture, with your thumb (of your right hand) in place so it doesnt move.....this will be difficult
3. pull the clutch pedal back up with your left hand while still trying to hold the hook in place with you right hand/thumb.
4. listen to the clicks. Just try a few clicks first then give the pedal a test push to see if you like the action better. Of you need to you can redo the above steps to get more of the slack out. If you take too much slack out, you can just pull the pedal up towards the steering wheel and it will let all the slack out. The part I put a red arrow pointing to is the stock adjuster with the teeth on it so you know what you are looking at.
5. What you are doing is taking the clutch cable slack out of the clutch pedal so it engages higher up and it fully engages the clutch so you can shift right. What you are experiencing now is your clutch cable may be stretched and not able to engage your clutch fully. There is also a TSB on the clutch cable guide tube that may be broken causing even more excessive clutch slack which my cobra had. My car had the broken guide tube at 28K miles. I almost traded it the day I bought it because I couldnt shift at high rpms ever and what was the point of all that power if you couldnt use it.
The thing you need to bend out of the way when you get the clutch where you want it is kinda in the circle with the hook. Its that small little metal plate that stands up under the plastic hook that holds it in place when you pull the pedal up so the stock adjuster gets disconnected from the hook part and the teeth spring back up causing your clutch to go back to the way it was. If you dont use a pair of pliers to bend it back out of the way, the minute you speedshift and your clutch comes snaping up the adjuster will be held back causing the gears/teeth to loose contact and your clutch cable will slack out again. I was doing this at stop lights it was happening so offen, thats when I went underneeth there with a flashlight to figure out what the hell was causing it to undo it self. Once you bend that metal plate back or forward, it should not make contact with the hook portion of your stock adjuster and your clutch pedal will stay.
Jiggy's fix sounds good for a temporary patch, but if you go to an aftermarket clutch, which you will eventually, you need an aftermarket quadrant and adjuster.
There is just marginally enough travel in the Ford factory linkage to operate the clutch correctly, but with the aftermarlet clutch, since they are slightly thicker, a quick release quadrant works much better. Also, the adjustment can be dialed in more precisely with the aftermarket adjuster, something that isn't possible with the stock pieces.
There is just marginally enough travel in the Ford factory linkage to operate the clutch correctly, but with the aftermarlet clutch, since they are slightly thicker, a quick release quadrant works much better. Also, the adjustment can be dialed in more precisely with the aftermarket adjuster, something that isn't possible with the stock pieces.
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