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Need more info on brakes

nytebyte

Not Politically Correct
Mar 2, 2004
13,628
20,958
I'm about to do some brake work in preparation for open track sessions this spring, but have a few questions. As always, I appreciate your feedback. These forums are a great source for knowledge.


I've done brakes on imports before, but never on a Mustang or Cobra. I've found some documentation on the Internet about how to change the front pads on a 93 Mustang, but nothing for the Cobra. Do the Cobra calipers still have a T-50 Torx bolt on the bottom, or is there a different way of removing them?


I've heard that the rear pads are a bitch to change. What is the truth to this? I know you need a special tool to rotate the caliper piston while you push it in, but what is the proper procedure for doing this? Is it really that big a deal?


Which pads should I use?
Should I get the Hawk HP Plus (race worthy) brake pads or is this overkill? Should I just stick with the regular Hawk HPS pads?


For stainless brake lines, is there anything I should put on the threads to seal them, or can I just tighten them down?
 

frdtch05gt

complete car nut
Jun 29, 2005
1,264
0
The front brakes are easy. Use a wrench (not sure what size on a Cobra, but 13,14 or 15mm is common on most Fords) to remove the bolts holding the caliper to the slide pins. Remove the caliper and set it somewhere out of the way, such as near the tie-rod. The pads will then come off. If you're changing the rotors, unbolt the caliper bracket next, should be 18mm bolts. The rotors will slide right off the hub, maybe need to use a hammer to tap them loose if they're stuck. Just put everything back together in reverse order. You will most likely need to use a c-clamp and one of the old pads to push the caliper pistons back in. Make sure when installing the caliper that you don't get the brake hose twisted up.

The rears are a little more tricky due to the parking brake being built into the caliper. You need a special tool to turn the piston back in. Other than that, it's pretty much like working on the front, other than the parking brake cable giving you limited movement of the caliper. You can get the piston tool from an auto parts store.
 

Flyn

Go ahead. I'll catch up.
Moderator
TCG Premium
Mar 1, 2004
68,052
27,984
Selling homes on the Gulf Coast of Florida
You turn the tool clockwise to compress the rear piston. If you buy the square cube shaped generic tool, you may have to grind the knobs on the tool down a little to make them fit properly.

To get the emergency brake cable off the rear calipers, first take the cable tie down bolt out of the wheel well to give you some free play in the cable. DO NOT remove the springs that are on the caliper. You can use a screwdriver or pry bar to compress the spring enough to slip off the emergency brake cable. That spring is a real pain to reinstall so leave it bolted on. After the E brake cable is off, the caliper has two bolts holding it on. Remove the bolts, take the caliper off the rotor, remove the pads, and crank the piston back in. Look closely at the way the pads are mounted so you can put the new ones in the same way. There are clips that hold the pads in. Make sure you put plenty of anti squeal on the backs of the pads.
 

voj

Member
Feb 19, 2006
28
0
I've heard that the rear pads are a bitch to change. What is the truth to this? I know you need a special tool to rotate the caliper piston while you push it in, but what is the proper procedure for doing this? Is it really that big a deal?

You heard right. Almost a two man job if you get the cheaper rear caliper tool, which requires you to push in and rotate (if I remember right there is the ~$10 version and the better ~$80 version, not sure though).

If you get any squeaking its probably from the anti-rattle clips that hold the pad, which would be worn in that case. I used duct tape to fix mine, but you could spend some money and buy some heat resistant anti-squeal as mentioned before...
 

SonicBlur

Harvester of Sorrow
Oct 15, 2004
5,425
321
Schaumburg
I got the rear brake tool from Autozone using their tool-rental program (you pay what the tool is worth and if you want it, you can keep otherwise you return it for a refund), actually I still have it. With that tool, it's really not that bad. I am going to do my fronts this weekend (upgrading to Hawk HPS pads and StopTech rotors.) Good luck!

-Mike
 

ShelbyGuy

Turgid Member
Mar 26, 2004
5,230
0
actually a wrench isnt needed for the fronts at all unless you are changing rotors.



to change pads on the front, start by pulling the rotor towards you from the bottom. this compresses the pistons somewhat. then, simply remove the e-clip, washer, and pin at the bottom edge of the caliper. the bracket stays put and the caliper lifts up and out. the pads simply clip on. leave the old pad on the inboard side and compress the pistons in with channellocks or a c-clamp. clip in the new pads, put the caliper back in the mounting bracket, replace the pin, the washer, and the e-clip and you're done.
 
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