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cobravenom39

GTL>FLA
Mar 1, 2004
5,135
24
Took the car out today, pulled out of my apartment and got on it, and my whole windshield got covered in coolant, AGAIN. Pulled over and popped the hood, and there was coolant squirting out one of the welds in my expansion tank....WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I have to get an aluminum tank welded, wherever you get that done, and they still haven't figured out why Evans cooled cars are still spewing coolant. I'm really getting pissed off now!!!!
 

Snowman

Large Member
Jul 20, 2005
778
0
If its thin aluminum .040 -0.80" I would gas weld it. If it is thicker .080" you can TiG weld it. But first find where the crack terminates and drill it. This will stop future cracks. You might have to use a dye like red food coloring to find it. The problem with gas welding is sometimes it is hard to get the flux to flow especially if it is inside a tank or other hard to reach area where you cant physically brush it on, also it is hard to remove the flux which in of itself is highly caustic and will ruin things. On the other hand Tig welding a liquid vessel will require you to fill it with a purge gas to prevent porosity on the inside of the weld. The alumalloy stuff you see on tv isnt aluminum welding at all but brazing. I dont know if I would trust this on something that would hold pressure and heat. Also once you alumalloy something it is very hard to get that crap off if you decide to weld it for real. Is it cracked at a weld or a bend?
 

cobravenom39

GTL>FLA
Mar 1, 2004
5,135
24
Snowman said:
If its thin aluminum .040 -0.80" I would gas weld it. If it is thicker .080" you can TiG weld it. But first find where the crack terminates and drill it. This will stop future cracks. You might have to use a dye like red food coloring to find it. The problem with gas welding is sometimes it is hard to get the flux to flow especially if it is inside a tank or other hard to reach area where you cant physically brush it on, also it is hard to remove the flux which in of itself is highly caustic and will ruin things. On the other hand Tig welding a liquid vessel will require you to fill it with a purge gas to prevent porosity on the inside of the weld. The alumalloy stuff you see on tv isnt aluminum welding at all but brazing. I dont know if I would trust this on something that would hold pressure and heat. Also once you alumalloy something it is very hard to get that crap off if you decide to weld it for real. Is it cracked at a weld or a bend?

Yeah, Wow, it's cracked at a weld. Can't a welder just melt some metal at the weld to cover it up??????????
 

Snowman

Large Member
Jul 20, 2005
778
0
It will open right back up. You got to grind that weld down and find where those cracks terminate and drill. Otherwise it will continue to crack and now you got weld over weld over crack. You will chase the crack all the way around the seam. Its a p/o situation I know. Do you know what kind of aluminum they are using? When they advertised it did they say it was made of aircraft aluminum? If so its probably 6061 or 2024 both of which weld o.k. How much does this thing go for new? It just might be worth your while to just get a new one than to find yourself in the same situation in spring. If it cracks once it will probably crack again the question is now when? The problem with using aluminum for this sort of thing is that by heating it up and cooling it down after so many times the aluminum becomes weak. Thats why the OEM's use plastic everywhere. You can take it to a good welder but in my opinion if he doesnt drill the crack ends and grind the welds hes not a good welder. If this thing keeps happening to you have some other issues. Isnt evans stuff supposed to run at no pressure? Are you using the evans Glycol? I know its like 30 bucks a gallon and my 98 uses something like four gallons of coolant. You run this stuff straight-no water. Which should lower your pressure significantly or so they say.
 

cobravenom39

GTL>FLA
Mar 1, 2004
5,135
24
Snowman said:
It will open right back up. You got to grind that weld down and find where those cracks terminate and drill. Otherwise it will continue to crack and now you got weld over weld over crack. You will chase the crack all the way around the seam. Its a p/o situation I know. Do you know what kind of aluminum they are using? When they advertised it did they say it was made of aircraft aluminum? If so its probably 6061 or 2024 both of which weld o.k. How much does this thing go for new? It just might be worth your while to just get a new one than to find yourself in the same situation in spring. If it cracks once it will probably crack again the question is now when? The problem with using aluminum for this sort of thing is that by heating it up and cooling it down after so many times the aluminum becomes weak. Thats why the OEM's use plastic everywhere. You can take it to a good welder but in my opinion if he doesnt drill the crack ends and grind the welds hes not a good welder. If this thing keeps happening to you have some other issues. Isnt evans stuff supposed to run at no pressure? Are you using the evans Glycol? I know its like 30 bucks a gallon and my 98 uses something like four gallons of coolant. You run this stuff straight-no water. Which should lower your pressure significantly or so they say.
I'm running the Evan's coolant, but everyone running it still has pressure problems or puking problems. I'm surprised the weld cracked before a hose blew off. WTF??? I dunno. I'm gonna return it and get a new one. I checked the Canton website and they said they have a 90 day warranty, which I am under. Thanks for your help.
 
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