• đź’ˇ Fun fact. Whenever you start a thread, TCG Mechanic 5000 (our AI bot) will reply to you to start helping. It doesn't know everything and it will struggle with more complex questions but it can get the thread going and provide valuable information. You can choose to disable it prior to submitting a thread.

So what did I forget...?

Wiked03

CSVT OG
Mar 1, 2004
29,341
10
Louisville, KY
ShelbyGuy said:
so i ordered:
jlt true cold air
2.93 upper and billet flow idlers
tune from rwtd (until we decide when/if we're getting herman to come to town)
ngk tr-6

billet flow web site says stock belt size works with this combo. agreed?

at what point are people needing 55/60# injectors, focus pumps, et cetera?

I assume by idlers you mean all 4.... If so then stock belt is fine.

You won't need to play with the fuel stuff till you port the blower usually.

:biggthump
 

ShelbyGuy

Turgid Member
Mar 26, 2004
5,230
0
no need. the sending units are the same for all the auto meter temp gauges. i've wired in a switch so the one gauge can read both oil temp and diff temp, with an led indicator :D

get rid of the voltmeter? are you nuts? thats my only indicator of whats going on with the electrical system! gotta hve an ammeter/voltmeter!

Mystic Terminator said:
Get the new autometer ultra-lite diff gauge ATM-5349. Move the existing oil temp gauge you are using for the diff down one spot and use it for the engine. Get rid of the volt meter.
 

Mystic Terminator

TCG Elite Member
Oct 6, 2004
3,150
0
ShelbyGuy said:
no need. the sending units are the same for all the auto meter temp gauges. i've wired in a switch so the one gauge can read both oil temp and diff temp, with an led indicator :D

get rid of the voltmeter? are you nuts? thats my only indicator of whats going on with the electrical system! gotta hve an ammeter/voltmeter!

It's only a voltmeter, not an ammeter. Maybe your first few track events w/ this new install you will switch back and forth periodically... I'm guessing you will get tired of that and leave it on Diff temp...

Now a switch for the engine oil temp/T56 oil temp would be nice since you wouldn't need to look @ the T56 unless you had a concern...

If you need any mounting brackets made up for your diff oil cooler send me a PM w/ a sketch. I could make them out of stainless/aluminum or cold roll…
 

ShelbyGuy

Turgid Member
Mar 26, 2004
5,230
0
volt meter tells you more than an ammeter does, and isnt a fire hazard.

actually, i doubt i'll be looking at the gauge much. i have a hard enough time looking down at the tach and trying to determine whether i did better this lap than the previous...

half the fun of jobs like the diff cooler is fabbing, but if i find myself not liking my bracketry, i'll pm you.


Mystic Terminator said:
It's only a voltmeter, not an ammeter. Maybe your first few track events w/ this new install you will switch back and forth periodically... I'm guessing you will get tired of that and leave it on Diff temp...

Now a switch for the engine oil temp/T56 oil temp would be nice since you wouldn't need to look @ the T56 unless you had a concern...

If you need any mounting brackets made up for your diff oil cooler send me a PM w/ a sketch. I could make them out of stainless/aluminum or cold roll…
 

Mystic Terminator

TCG Elite Member
Oct 6, 2004
3,150
0
ShelbyGuy said:
half the fun of jobs like the diff cooler is fabbing, but if i find myself not liking my bracketry, i'll pm you.

The plumbing would be the fun part... for me... That and the test run after the install... We got the material @ work, that is why I offered... Sometimes free is nice...

I used a cobalt drill on the hardened bumper... Wasn't too bad, but did it sing drilling that hole... Not sure a tap would work well w/ that bumper if you were thinking of tapping holes... After removing my seat for the bar, I was thinking about mounting the oil pump under the rear seat... I think there will be clearance to put it there and re-install the seat... Mounting it there to the floorpan would eliminate some brackets or allow the brackets for the cooler to be smaller... Save weight, easy access w/ two nuts to remove seat...

I gotta go get my car from Sutton... Maybe I could check it out for you (Pump under seat) if I have time... Car made 10 ~ 20 more HP than it did in January w/ no changes other than Billetflow idlers, Gords & LDC Cooling kit... :rolleyes: I was having a problem w/ belt slip in January @ Eric's dyno even though I was stock pulley... Gotta love it when you get more HP from four idlers...
 

Mystic Terminator

TCG Elite Member
Oct 6, 2004
3,150
0
Mystic Terminator said:
After removing my seat for the bar, I was thinking about mounting the oil pump under the rear seat... I think there will be clearance to put it there and re-install the seat... Mounting it there to the floorpan would eliminate some brackets or allow the brackets for the cooler to be smaller... Save weight, easy access w/ two nuts to remove seat...

Will not fit under the factory rear seat. Don't know what I was thinking... Too much foam... If you had a rear seat delete it would fit...
 

ShelbyGuy

Turgid Member
Mar 26, 2004
5,230
0
fat as shit. 11.0 at 3krpm, 11.0 at 5500rpm. i asked for it that way. plenty of room to futz with it and still be safe. [email protected] is, as the kids say, the shizzle fo rizzle. i did take a ton of timing out and mike at high speed perf said to change plugs. a little ickiness on the top end.i did the pulls with my stock 22's which are gapped at 45. i have a set of ngk tr6 gapped at 35 for morning if its not raining too terribly much.


dun4791 said:
whats A/F look like???????????????Lyle
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant. Consider starting a new thread to get fresh replies.

Thread Info