-
đź’ˇ Fun fact. Whenever you start a thread, TCG Mechanic 5000 (our AI bot) will reply to you to start helping. It doesn't know everything and it will struggle with more complex questions but it can get the thread going and provide valuable information. You can choose to disable it prior to submitting a thread.
Apten cooling mod..
- Thread starter VenomInside
- Start date
Look 1 thread down chere it says Cliff?
http://www.chicagosvt.com/forums/showthread.php3?t=2453
There is some info re: Apten Cooling Mod. You can see it yourself in person this Sunday I believe. I am ordering parts Monday if you want me to order you a set.
http://www.chicagosvt.com/forums/showthread.php3?t=2453
There is some info re: Apten Cooling Mod. You can see it yourself in person this Sunday I believe. I am ordering parts Monday if you want me to order you a set.
0
03TorchRedCobra
Guest
VenomInside said:
Call Apten at Cooling Mod
I ordered mine yesterday for 125 + 7 shipping. Be here next week.
As for clutch, flywheel and TOB I am going with CenterCenterforce . Their dual friction is perfect for street and race.
Hope this helps.
I strongly recommend replacing the plastic T in the kit with a brass one. You can sometimes get that at Lowe's. Size is 3/4". There is also a guy on SVT performance selling extras in the market.
Although it is called the "Apten" cooling mod. A local SVT tech here in St. Louis named Rick Engh originally developed the mod. When Apten was here, it was passed on to them to market and sell. Rick installed my cooling mod ( I was one of the first) , and my plastic T has warped or cracked and coolant is now leaking. So, whoever above was doing this soon, I STRONGLY recommend getting that brass fitting in there from the get-go.
Here is a quick pic for ya...
Although it is called the "Apten" cooling mod. A local SVT tech here in St. Louis named Rick Engh originally developed the mod. When Apten was here, it was passed on to them to market and sell. Rick installed my cooling mod ( I was one of the first) , and my plastic T has warped or cracked and coolant is now leaking. So, whoever above was doing this soon, I STRONGLY recommend getting that brass fitting in there from the get-go.
Here is a quick pic for ya...
Thanks for the advice. Lyle already picked up a brass T from an online hardware store. Word has started to get around in the forums about using a brass one instead of the plastic. So you were one of the pioneers with this mod. How's it worked for you? No overheating or piston meltdown, I assume?
BLK_03 said:
I ordered a dozen tee's for ChicagoSVT members that want one... Price is about $5.25 +/-
If you want it shipped it will be about $6.00
Monday I am going to put an order for the Ford Fitting... Anyone interested please let me know...
Ford # XR3Z-18B402-DA ~~ Should be about $28.00 ~ $30.00 w/ shipping
Considering the Brass Tee, Ford Part, Heater Hose and Hose Clamps you should be able to do the mod for about $40 ~ $45...
So far we have:
Dan
Tim
Myself
Anyone else?
Yeah no shit guys about bending the EGR tube. The mechanic at my Ford dealer charged me a little extra but rebuilt that tube to fit right becuase he couldn't bend it either.
I sure hope the plastic "T" holds up, that would really suck if it didn't. I paid their stupid 125.00. Don't pay it for that reason alone.
They told me the cost was due to development. Well the plastic is stupid and so is bending the EGR tube.
I sure hope the plastic "T" holds up, that would really suck if it didn't. I paid their stupid 125.00. Don't pay it for that reason alone.
They told me the cost was due to development. Well the plastic is stupid and so is bending the EGR tube.
Here are some pics from our coolant mod adventure.
In the 1st pic, you can see the fittings at 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock. 2 is the original. 10 is the new one.
In the 2nd pic, you can see where Lyle drilled and tapped a hole to accept a bolt.
3-5 are various attempts at making the hose fit and clear the heater core inlet and outlet.
6 and 7 are Lyle and John showing how well the brass T grips the hose. LOL!
In the 1st pic, you can see the fittings at 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock. 2 is the original. 10 is the new one.
In the 2nd pic, you can see where Lyle drilled and tapped a hole to accept a bolt.
3-5 are various attempts at making the hose fit and clear the heater core inlet and outlet.
6 and 7 are Lyle and John showing how well the brass T grips the hose. LOL!
Attachments
OK i have calmed down a little from wasting an entire day on figuring out how the best way to do this mod is.
Im going to go with the EGR delete and have Jon turn it off in my chip.If anyone has the part #s for the plug and cap please post Im gonna need them.
As for the way the heater hose hooks up(like shit) Im going to weld a Tee into the stock water outlet onj the pass side that is in in the back of the head-thus rendering all other parts stock. Therefore you wont have to worry about cutting/fitting the heater core inlet hose. This way all hose/piping will be lower than the burp plug, and the restrictor wont have to be cut out.
I have done the planning already and it looks as if it will work. Hopefully i can get Cliff to take a few pics before the trans goes back in.
Im going to go with the EGR delete and have Jon turn it off in my chip.If anyone has the part #s for the plug and cap please post Im gonna need them.
As for the way the heater hose hooks up(like shit) Im going to weld a Tee into the stock water outlet onj the pass side that is in in the back of the head-thus rendering all other parts stock. Therefore you wont have to worry about cutting/fitting the heater core inlet hose. This way all hose/piping will be lower than the burp plug, and the restrictor wont have to be cut out.
I have done the planning already and it looks as if it will work. Hopefully i can get Cliff to take a few pics before the trans goes back in.
I just tried it out on the car and everything looks great this way, so far i havent found any problems with the fittings this way. Im gonna stop after work tomorrow and get a piece of heater hose and try to get it all together. So far this has been MUCH easier. I should know tomorrow or Friday night if it is a go with this fitting.
If it works and you want me to make you 1 get me 2 fittings and ill make you a modified one for 25.00. Or if you have access to a TIG welding machine, be careful not to melt the silver solder in the base of the fitting, and take the O ring off. Also tack the 2nd fitting on at a slight angle to avoid contact with the head.
I will be sure not to start putting the car back together until cliff gets some pics, so everyone interested can see the final install.
Not messing with any stock heater hoses is worth this fitting IMO.
If it works and you want me to make you 1 get me 2 fittings and ill make you a modified one for 25.00. Or if you have access to a TIG welding machine, be careful not to melt the silver solder in the base of the fitting, and take the O ring off. Also tack the 2nd fitting on at a slight angle to avoid contact with the head.
I will be sure not to start putting the car back together until cliff gets some pics, so everyone interested can see the final install.
Not messing with any stock heater hoses is worth this fitting IMO.
J
Jpatte
Guest
Mods
I think that you can do a little better by making the mod completely hard pipe. No headaches later when the hose fails. Or if you want to get fancy, convert the mod into pipe thread and then connect the two with a threaded braided hose. This would eliminate pipe torque and vibration.
jpatte
dun4791 said:
I think that you can do a little better by making the mod completely hard pipe. No headaches later when the hose fails. Or if you want to get fancy, convert the mod into pipe thread and then connect the two with a threaded braided hose. This would eliminate pipe torque and vibration.
jpatte
Thread Info
-
Created -
49Replies
-
3KViews
-
Participants list
