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IRS Bushing install

Wharf Rat

The other Hank
Mar 1, 2004
680
0
Has anyone here installed new IRS bushings? I ordered the max motorsports kit today (plus the 14 mm bolts) and was wondering what I'm in for when I go to swap these out this weekend. I read the directions on line and it looks pretty easy which is a sure sign that I'm missing some vital peice of information that will change this 2 hour job into a 7 hour headache.

Any tips???

When I read that you have to take the cat-back off I figured I should do it now while I'm installing my new Magnaflow set-up. Which makes sence but I'm pissed cause my cat-back showed up today and I couldn't install it since I'm waiting for the bushings to show up. I even took it in the ass to the tune of $26 for second day air on the bushings so I can get this done this weekend.
 

Dana

Bluesmobile
Mar 2, 2004
2,619
0
Be prepared to loose at least one weekend of your life doing the bushing install.
It ranks just ahead of header installs.

I do ALL my own work and I would not do that job again. I would pay someone to do it.

It took less time to install the solid than it did to do the bushings.
The job is doable, but a lot of work...

Dana
 

Wharf Rat

The other Hank
Mar 1, 2004
680
0
Damn, that's not what I wanted to hear.

I guess I'm asking for it cause I'm going for it today after the garage warms up a little. If I get under there and it looks like it will suck too bad I'll just install the 14 mm bolts and the catback and go fishing the rest of the day!

Happy Holiday :alcoholic
 

Wharf Rat

The other Hank
Mar 1, 2004
680
0
Dana,

How much force did you have to use to get the new bushings into the IRS subframe? I sanded the crap out of the holes and I can't get the new bushings to seat all the way for nothing. I am about 4 hours into this project and I am not finished with the first two yet. You were right, this is doable but it sucks.
 

Dana

Bluesmobile
Mar 2, 2004
2,619
0
The lubricant should be applied liberally to start with.

A lot of us used a "C" clamp with a larger socket and large flat washer to press the bushing into the hole.
The socket will need to be large enough to allow the bushing to fit inside of it. Put the washer against the end of the bushing and put the socket on the opposite end, the end towards which you are pushing the bushing. Then tighten the "C" clamp. This will force the bushing into the hole and allow it to move past the end of the hole and into the socket. Do not push it too far.

This should help.

Are we having fun yet???


Dana
 

Wharf Rat

The other Hank
Mar 1, 2004
680
0
After I figured out what I was doing the last 2 went right in (sort of). I ground the center out of a pulley puller and used a long bolt and washers to press the bushing in. Same with the crush sleeve.

I have all the bushings and sleeves in and the IRS back up but the holes didn't line up and it got dark so I'll hopefully finish it tonite.
 

Wharf Rat

The other Hank
Mar 1, 2004
680
0
Job is done :clap:

It took about 8 to 10 hours. Now that I know what I am doing I bet I could cut that in HALF. BUT, I'd rather get a root canal than go throught that again. My hand looks like I put it in a garbage disposal and I feel like I was in a rugby tournament this weekend. If the hop is gone or at least greatly reduced than it was worth it. If not I'll be pissed if I went through this for nothing but the FUN of it.
 

Wharf Rat

The other Hank
Mar 1, 2004
680
0
ShelbyGuy said:
the bushings for irs subframe and diff mounting ears are just one piece of the puzzle to eliminate the hop. there's still plenty of rubber bushings to eliminate yet.

The rest of the bushings in my car are going to stay right where they are at!!!! If I still have more hop than I think I should have I'm going to try shocks and/or springs.
 

Dana

Bluesmobile
Mar 2, 2004
2,619
0
I don't know if you did the diff bushing or not, but I would recommend doing them also.
I thought those would be a piece of cake after the IRS bushing, but NO, they took 4 hours too.

Get MJ's diff brace and the bushings, do it all at the same time, and you should be a lot better off than stock.

Dan
 

Flyn

Go ahead. I'll catch up.
Moderator
TCG Premium
Mar 1, 2004
68,053
27,986
Selling homes on the Gulf Coast of Florida
I was reading in this month's 5.0 + SFs [June,'04] that Richard Lelsz says: "Urethane bushings for the rear carrier are a must. This keeps everything stable when you launch the car. But we don't like the urethane mounting bushings--they really decrease the ride quality. So, we leave the mounting bushings stock."

What do you guys think about that?
 

Dana

Bluesmobile
Mar 2, 2004
2,619
0
Nothing will totally eliminate wheel hop on these cars. At best, you can minimize it. Good tires, along with the above mentioned suspension mods, go a long way towards solving the problem. Get rid of the F-1's and and get some Nitto's or BFG's drag radials.

Dana
 

Wharf Rat

The other Hank
Mar 1, 2004
680
0
They definately didn't eliminate the hop. I would say they reduced the frequency of hopping and when the hop does rear it's ugly head it is ALOT less severe.

As far as the install, the chatter in this thread about sums it up.

In the end I would say it was worth it only because I really hated the hop. If this car didn't handle so well I woulda dropped the coin on a solid.

For now I'm content but I am trying my damnest to melt these F1's off so I can spring for some DR's and hopefully lose some more hop (and maybe even 18's while I'm at it).
 
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