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Valve Float
- Thread starter Dasfinc
- Start date
Get a 3v brah. God's gift toThen you won't have to worry about anything but the blood of virgins as oil.
Your input has been noted, and thrown away, thank you for your comment.
I'm going to. Motor has to come out for it so I'm just curious how far I can wind it out until I move the drivetrain over to the other truck.
When it get removed, buy a performance cam with the matched springs to it. The cam manufacture could then advise you on what a safe level is.
My .02 cents.
If you do that be wary of engine/trans temps..let it warm up well before getting into the throttle. Oil doesn't work as well under 180F.
In my experience, a good cooling system with a 180 stat is much better than a stock cooling system with a 160 in it.
Good heat extraction = more available power.
If you want to make the build a bit more bulletproof, a quick way to hot rod the oiling would be to run a mechanical roller cam and roller rockers...then install oil restrictors to the lifter oil feeds. Keeps the oil pressure on the rods and mains where you want it, and you can hit higher revs w/o starving the pan. I'd worry about that kind of stuff before worrying about valve float!
With the blower I had hit 4600RPM and was still climbing fairly rapidly. I'll get it back to the dyno again in June with the new tune, and a smaller pulley
My motor already has a roller cam IIRC, I had read a few articles saying the explorer GT40 springs were garbage from the start and would be a limiting factor.
You car has a roller hydraulic, not a solid roller lifter. You can't restrict the lifter feed on hyd lifters.
You make more power on a mechanical, but the flipside is you have to adjust lash periodically. I ran a mechanical on the street in a DD before, the extra adjusting was no big deal.
Since it's small-block Ford, you should have no problem sourcing a decent mechanical roller for little $$$.
You make more power on a mechanical, but the flipside is you have to adjust lash periodically. I ran a mechanical on the street in a DD before, the extra adjusting was no big deal.
Since it's small-block Ford, you should have no problem sourcing a decent mechanical roller for little $$$.
Yeah. But I have a stock 3v Mustang. So unless you have something in the 13-14 second range then not with you.
Get a 3v brah. God's gift to
UGH, I'll take the pushrod simplicity, Winsor goodness, and aftermarket support over the mod motor family anyday.
I get simplicity, but come on, EVERYONE and their uncle has a pushrod windsor. Everything that can be done, has been done. It's boring.
...and when you hit ~450 WHP the block splits in half.
Mod motors can handle twice that, though the rotating assembly royally sucks.
On the bright side, mod motors are getting cheaper to build nowadays, and pushrod 5.0s are more expensive.
I'd like to think that my blown windsor powered ranger is far from boring :rollpicard:
(I know what you are saying, but regardless I stuck with a tried and true engine for something truely unique)
I think my pushrod powered Fiero is far from boring too. Im just saying im sick of 5.0s. Every time I see one its the same ol setup. You can look at someones setup and know how much it puts down and how fast it goes almost to a T.
Everyone that see's the truck in person loves it, I can't help but laugh at the internet hate
Did your 2.0 start off in another car Naturally aspirated?
did you swap the 2.0 into a car that never had it, and then added forced induction to an engine that was never boosted?
Nope, you bought it that way.
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