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How-to: 6r80 2011-2014 Mustang converter install

1quick

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To start, you're going to want to make some sort of cribbing stands to get the car high enough, not a chance you will be able to do it on ramps or normal size jack stands - if I were to do it again I would make 4 stands rather than just two and id make them 14+" tall mine were 12" tall



You're going to want a full set of metric ratcheting wrenches, sockets in 1/2" drive and 3/8 and a 10mm in 1/4 drive with about 6" worth of extensions, I also had to make a special 10mm wrench for the rear drive shaft bolts but I have an aftermarket drive shaft and there isnt much clearance on it

So here we go:
1. disconnect the battery
2. take out the two 13mm bolts from the top of the bell housing while the car is still on the ground one has a wire harness connected to it just pull it off not too hard.



3. get the car jacked up to the height you want
4. Remove your h pipe, I have a lethal off road H so the manifold bolts may be different size on stock, but they were 17mm on mine and 15 on the rear clamps you will want a swivel to get the top bolt on the passenger side.




5. remove the driveshaft, mine is a shaftmasters so Im not sure it the bolt sizes are the same or not, but my fronts are 12 point 12mm and the rears are 12 point 10mm. the rears are a pain on the shaftmasters driveshaft just not much room, I didn't even take a picture of the rear must have been out of spite, its really not that bad if you have the right tool set up. i ended up cutting an old wrench and using electric tape to hold it in a piece of pipe for leverage the bolts have thread locker on them even the stock ones, you will also need to have the rear end on jack stands so the tires can spin and put the car in neutral so you can spin the shaft to access all the bolts.




6. I would pop off all the wire connectors at this time. there are 2 on the passenger side, its just plastic pieces holding the trans harness to the trans, nothing special. take a screw driver and push them out, there is one on the driver side of the trans that holds the shift cable and rear o2 sensor wire, then the actual trans plug on the top rear of the trans, just twist the piece stick off the side to the left and pull the plug out.
7. take the shift linkage off two 10mm bolts and just pop the plastic part off the actual linkage




8. now zip tie the shift bracket rear o2's and anything else hanging around out of the way
9. pull the cross brace off thats under the bell housing 4 15mm nuts the black bar infront of the trans cooler lines in this picture



10. now pull the starter, I left mine all plugged in just took out the 3 10mm bolts that hold it to the trans this is what you will want the 1/4 drive 10mm for that top bolt is a bitch
11. here is the starter dropped down and out of the way also the next step pull the bracket off the bottom of the trans that holds the cooler lines



12. then pull the cover plate off the bottom of the trans two 13mm bolts



13. now your ready to pull the converter bolts out, they are actually nuts on this, the stock converter has studs that stick through the flex plate they are 13mm, you will want a 18mm 1/2 drive breaker bar on the crank bolt to turn the motor over there is 4 converter bolts




14. time to take out the rest of the bell housing bolts there are 3 more on the driver side easy to get to, and two on the passenger side you will need a swivel to get the top one the bottom is easy they are all 13mm, the motor has 2 big dowel pins for alignment so that trans wont just fall off when its all unbolted
15. pull the trans cooler lines one 10mm bolt and they are just pushed into the trans and held with orings carefully pry them out with a small flat blade



16. now get your jack set up i made a wood cradle for a regular jack it ended up being too tall later on when i needed to get the trans out from under the car and I had to take it off the jack by hand and set it on the floor not fun but I had another person to help this is what i used



17. make sure your jack is holding up some weight and take the rear trans crossover off 4 18mm bolts I just left it attached to the trans so I had something else to lift on if I needed and I did later



18. nothing should be connected to the trans now all the weight on your jack, you will need to pull it back off the dowel pins in the motor, I had to pry it a little once its off just drop it down and go back slowly some of the wires will get in the way when its headed down, there is a breather tube on the top of the trans either pop it off the back of the motor its just clipped to a wire loom or let it pull out of the trans not a big deal
19. if you dont have your car on a lift now you have to figure out how your getting the trans on the ground extra people help
20. the trans is out on the ground measure how far the converter sticks out just for reference to make sure you push the new one on all the way
21. pop the old converter off mine just came right off



22. throw 1/2-3/4 of a quart of mercon lv trans fluid in the new converter as much as you can get it to take
23. push the new converter on the trans and rotate and push until you feel it go all the way on then re measure to make sure its about the same as the old one



24. at this point its pretty much reverse order, once the trans is back in the car and bolted up leave the shift lever off until after the drive shaft is back in its easier to shift the car from part to neutral while your under there
25. everything is buttoned back up start the car run it through the gears and get it warm, then check the trans fluid and add as needed this part is stupid there is no dip stick just this little plug under the car on the trans, you will need some sort of pump to fill it, i used a marine gear lube pump you can get them at walmart



now go have fun
 

1quick

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Jan 29, 2008
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:bigthumb: well done.
which converter did you go with? 2c?

I went with a 4c that's what all the cool kids seem to be running for mild coyotes and with spray it should be solid, the blower cars are running 3c's and 2c's and the na cars run 5c's most of the time, I've seen a 4c na car cut 1.5 60's I'm hoping for 1.4's on spray since I already did 1.6's on the stock converter
 

1quick

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Jan 29, 2008
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coal city
[MENTION=917]1quick[/MENTION]

any speedometer vids yet of this thing in action???/

I tried the other day but I have the stock rear tires on it right now under 50* out and it just spins, I even tried starting in 2nd gear and it flashes up to 4K rpm and blows the tires off, once it gets a little warmer out I'll throw the et streets on and get a video
 

1quick

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Jan 29, 2008
26,554
24,013
coal city
[MENTION=917]1quick[/MENTION]
you plan on going to the track a lot this year??

Im getting the GLD season pass, and would like to use it to spectate a lot as well.

dont plan on doing a shit ton of racing...

I'd like to go at least once a month, I'm going to hit Byron and 41 as well I had fun at Byron last year for the mustang meet, 41 is way closer but I like going to gld during the week and I will probably make an rsd appearance or two depending on how it lands with my schedule
 
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