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Chunky Shifting

tigercrazi

Member
Jul 19, 2010
7
0
Is anyone having the same problem I am? My car shifts fine if I am driving casual, but if I am getting on it and try to shift into second quickly it ether, won't let me ,or grinds. It has done this pretty much since it was new, so I put the Super Snake shifter from Shelby in thinking it would solve the problem. The shifter made the gear change shorter and more solid, but the problem is still there. My car has 11,400mi. and it is only 2nd gear that does it.
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
Is anyone having the same problem I am? My car shifts fine if I am driving casual, but if I am getting on it and try to shift into second quickly it ether, won't let me ,or grinds. It has done this pretty much since it was new, so I put the Super Snake shifter from Shelby in thinking it would solve the problem. The shifter made the gear change shorter and more solid, but the problem is still there. My car has 11,400mi. and it is only 2nd gear that does it.

This is a very common problem with the shelby. There are threads all over the internet on different sites where people are complaining about it. Mine does it too. All you have to do is hesitate for a split second and it will go in. I noticed that when I speed shift, I can get the car out of gear before I even get on the clutch. Then when I try to shift as the clutch goes down, it grinds. I have has several other mustangs and other cars that you could not get it out of gear without pushing on the clutch first, and I think thats the issue.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/shelby-gt500-150/709678-2011-gt500-1-2-shift-problem.html
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
Thanks for the info. It just sucks having to hesitate your shift when your runnin someone!

I did find that most of my issue was me. When I speed shift, I usually put pressure on the stick, but it stays in gear until the clutch is pressed. On the shelby, it doesnt do that. It will slip out of gear without the clutch. And for me what it happening is the gear change is starting before the clutch is all the way down, causing it to grind. I adjusted my technique and I think that I am as fast as I was before, but I really have to think about it.
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
It's funny, I have a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger with a 302 backed by a 4 speed Top Loader with a stock shifter and I can power shift the hell out of it without ever missing a gear. It has a hydraulic clutch and 75W90 oil in the trans!

I could stand on my C6 and power shift that badboy all day long. I was disappointed when I first got my car, but it did loosen up a little with miles. Also I had to relearn how to shift.
 

VNMOUS1

Light fuse, get away.
Nov 22, 2006
271
0
Is anyone having the same problem I am? My car shifts fine if I am driving casual, but if I am getting on it and try to shift into second quickly it ether, won't let me ,or grinds. It has done this pretty much since it was new, so I put the Super Snake shifter from Shelby in thinking it would solve the problem. The shifter made the gear change shorter and more solid, but the problem is still there. My car has 11,400mi. and it is only 2nd gear that does it.

Had you had the issue some time ago you had a better chance of getting it repaired under warranty. But, your 3/36 bumper to bumper is done and now you're on the 5/60 drivetrain. Recently they've been turning down modded cars for the TSB (as Jiggy said...go look for the info at SVTperformance or teamshelby.com. there is a TON of it). The last few I've seen they're calling it a 12 mo wear and tear item.

The truth is there were two issues. One was that people didn't know how to drive this kind of clutch (no offense, as I don't have any idea of how you drive) and pussied it around and killed them. Theyre TOUGH. I've got probably 200 passes, 20 dyno sessions and 23,000 of stop and go driving and it's fine.

The other issue was that on early cars (you'll find the build dates on the threads) there was rust developing on the input shafts. They weren't lubed properly at Tremec.

Best of luck to you. I HIGHLY suggest you read all you can before even considering seeing a dealer. Then, find a performance oriented dealer. And, revert your car to stock. If you're pullied, Metco makes a 3" and you MAY be able to tell them it's "decorative" :)

If you have the VMP "stock look" 2.65", you're golden because the normal SVT tech will never notice it. But, stock airbox and tune is a must. No, they can't tell you've had it tuned...that's BS that people thought at one time.

Don't show up with a set of drag radials and a bunch of rubber in the wheelwells.

bj
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
Had you had the issue some time ago you had a better chance of getting it repaired under warranty. But, your 3/36 bumper to bumper is done and now you're on the 5/60 drivetrain. Recently they've been turning down modded cars for the TSB (as Jiggy said...go look for the info at SVTperformance or teamshelby.com. there is a TON of it). The last few I've seen they're calling it a 12 mo wear and tear item.

The truth is there were two issues. One was that people didn't know how to drive this kind of clutch (no offense, as I don't have any idea of how you drive) and pussied it around and killed them. Theyre TOUGH. I've got probably 200 passes, 20 dyno sessions and 23,000 of stop and go driving and it's fine.

The other issue was that on early cars (you'll find the build dates on the threads) there was rust developing on the input shafts. They weren't lubed properly at Tremec.

Best of luck to you. I HIGHLY suggest you read all you can before even considering seeing a dealer. Then, find a performance oriented dealer. And, revert your car to stock. If you're pullied, Metco makes a 3" and you MAY be able to tell them it's "decorative" :)

If you have the VMP "stock look" 2.65", you're golden because the normal SVT tech will never notice it. But, stock airbox and tune is a must. No, they can't tell you've had it tuned...that's BS that people thought at one time.

Don't show up with a set of drag radials and a bunch of rubber in the wheelwells.

bj

Just see Drew, he would warranty your car if it was on fire at the time of drop off from a NOS backfire. LOL J/k Drew.
 

Ear Rak

Underemployed
Nov 11, 2005
25,557
87
Fort Worth, TX
First off, every manual car i've driven has been able to get out of gear with out the use of the clutch (ie clutchless shifting)

But in relation to the author's problem, i have an 03/04 cobra t56 in my gt and my trans has the same problem till its warmed up a bit. Shifts like complete garbage until its been driven for a solid 30 min.

Just my $.02 cents, hope it helps you narrow it down, but i doubt it will.
 

tigercrazi

Member
Jul 19, 2010
7
0
I don' think my problem is a clutch issue. I believe it has a variety of causes. The first being the shifter design. With the rear of the shifter attached to the chassis and the front of the shifter attached to the trans. I believe under hard excelleration there is some defliction from the engine torquing over, plus the big difference in the gear ratios of first and second gears. the third being the smaller syncro's in the 6060's I understand that Tremec has put in these trans. All these things combine to put stress on the 1st - 2nd syncro's under fast shifting.
 

01bluesnake

D Mark Performance
TCG Sponsor
Jul 8, 2009
3,404
7,556
Just see Drew, he would warranty your car if it was on fire at the time of drop off from a NOS backfire. LOL J/k Drew.

lmao, just seen this now. I try to do whatever i can, warranty or not to get stuff right. If i can get it through warranty, i will. As far as on fire...:lmao:
I'm going to work with Brian on this, and see what i can do.
 
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