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Old 04-06-2010, 04:23 AM   #1
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Default Crazy amount of clutch cable play after spec 2+ install

I just finished my spec stage 2 plus install there is a insane amount of play in the cable and I cant really get the clutch were i want it. I have a firewall adjuster and aftermarket quad. It so loose that u can unhook the clutch cable from the fork by hand. What could it be?
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:07 AM   #2
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there a couple of possibilities:
1) the release fork is not mounted into the bellhousing correctly.
2) the TOB is not mounted to the release fork correctly.
3) The cable housing is not attached to the firewall adjuster properly.
4) There was an error made when the clutch was installed, such as the disk is in backwards.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:27 AM   #3
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not to thread jack but i just installed my new motor and trans and i dont have ENOUGH cable it seems to be about 2 inches short? what could be the problem there?
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:47 AM   #4
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is the cable housing too short? or the inner cable itself?
if the housing is too short then it may be a routing issue.
is it routed as the original cable was routed? especially around the exhaust manifold?
is the trans/engine combo the same as what came out?
Do you have an aftermarket quadrant and adjuster?
if you are just installing the adjuster for the first time, part of the cable housing end has to be modified to fit into the adjuster.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:58 PM   #5
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1) the release fork is not mounted into the bellhousing correctly. I put in to were you jsut pup it over the little ball
2) the TOB is not mounted to the release fork correctly. I put on to that it is on top of the clips like i saw in a write up
3) The cable housing is not attached to the firewall adjuster properly.It has to be on there properly i have had it on there for the stock clutch for over 15k miles
4) There was an error made when the clutch was installed, such as the disk is in backwards. I know i did not do that

I am really confused why it is like this i have fire wall adjuster out as far as it can go too.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxer89 View Post
1) the release fork is not mounted into the bellhousing correctly. I put in to were you jsut pup it over the little ball
2) the TOB is not mounted to the release fork correctly. I put on to that it is on top of the clips like i saw in a write up
3) The cable housing is not attached to the firewall adjuster properly.It has to be on there properly i have had it on there for the stock clutch for over 15k miles
4) There was an error made when the clutch was installed, such as the disk is in backwards. I know i did not do that

I am really confused why it is like this i have fire wall adjuster out as far as it can go too.
There are probably a dozen other things that could cause your problem, those were the most common and obvious.

here are a few more less common ones:

If you are correct in all the above, then maybe something is wrong with the clutch itself?

Are they the correct parts for the application? check the part numbers

Are the release fingers coming all the way back until they almost touch the pressure plate cover?

Is the transmission fully seated against the bellhousing and the bellhousing against the motor?

Does the release fork/TOB slide easily on the guide tube?

Hopefully it is something simple and you just need a second set of eyes to spot it.
Get someone over to help you walk through it.
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:17 PM   #7
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FWIW I have the same issue after installing my Spec 3+
Its too bad Im a clutch dummy and dont know how to spot a problem.
However, after a lot of research, Ive found this to be a common problem which requires shimming of the pivot ball.
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zack View Post
FWIW I have the same issue after installing my Spec 3+
Its too bad Im a clutch dummy and dont know how to spot a problem.
However, after a lot of research, Ive found this to be a common problem which requires shimming of the pivot ball.
That sounds like it could be the problem what do you do it shim the pivot ball just take it out and put some washers under it?
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:32 PM   #9
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after installing my spec 3+ I really had a lot of play but ended up getting it under control with the firewall adjuster.
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:38 PM   #10
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Im going to do what DANA told me to do first, which is switch to a stock cable, get the RED steeda Quadrant and freeplay mod, then re-evaluate.
I have a quadrant adjuster as well.....car is still not together though
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:34 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxer89 View Post
That sounds like it could be the problem what do you do it shim the pivot ball just take it out and put some washers under it?
an adjustable pivot is sold for this purpose. I would talk to Spec first though and see if this is a common occurance or unusual.
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Old 04-07-2010, 06:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana View Post
an adjustable pivot is sold for this purpose. I would talk to Spec first though and see if this is a common occurance or unusual.
Ill do that today.

EVERY install ive read about requires it. God damn I have to take the asshole trans out.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:55 AM   #13
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Just got off the phone with Spec.
He told me shimming the pivot ball should not be necessary and he hasnt received any complaints like we have.

Funny how 99% of everyone on ModularFords has to shim the pivot ball but it fits perfectly according to Spec.

Another fine example of aftermarket parts not working properly. I am gonna shim the pivot ball, because I do not want to have to turn the firewall adjuster all the way out.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:56 AM   #14
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...and while Im working on the pivot ball, ill be dreaming of a Turbo 400 with a Gear Vendors.
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:07 AM   #15
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pull up on the clutch pedal, reach over above the gas pedal, and ratchet the quadrant.. that'll get rid of the play...
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:19 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
pull up on the clutch pedal, reach over above the gas pedal, and ratchet the quadrant.. that'll get rid of the play...
How is that gonna remedy the fact the TOB doesnt make contact with the pressure plate until 50% of the forks travel?

No disrespect intended, im still a clutch dumb dumb.
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zack View Post
How is that gonna remedy the fact the TOB doesnt make contact with the pressure plate until 50% of the forks travel?

No disrespect intended, im still a clutch dumb dumb.
you can tighten the clutch cable with the quadrant by going "against" the grain... been doing it since 1990
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zack View Post
Just got off the phone with Spec.
He told me shimming the pivot ball should not be necessary and he hasnt received any complaints like we have.

Funny how 99% of everyone on ModularFords has to shim the pivot ball but it fits perfectly according to Spec.

Another fine example of aftermarket parts not working properly. I am gonna shim the pivot ball, because I do not want to have to turn the firewall adjuster all the way out.
Ya that is kind of funny they also told me the samething i found multiple threads on modularford about how people have to shim the pivot ball. I thinking about stopping at winners circles tommorow and picking up a adjustable clutch cable
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:47 AM   #19
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many people dont like the adjustable cables, they end up going back to the stock one.
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Old 04-08-2010, 04:36 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxer89 View Post
Ya that is kind of funny they also told me the samething i found multiple threads on modularford about how people have to shim the pivot ball. I thinking about stopping at winners circles tommorow and picking up a adjustable clutch cable
IF the pivot is positioned incorrectly, an adjustable cable won't solve the problem. The release fork will just end up hitting the bellhousing.
Adjustable cables also seem to have a high failure rate.
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Old 04-08-2010, 07:18 AM   #21
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You need a new clutch cable. I had the same problem, but since I am selling my car, I have no use for it.

It's a Ford Racing Clutch Cable, and for 50 bucks, it's yours dude. Brand new, only the box was opened.
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:01 AM   #22
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Ill take the clutch cable if he doesnt want it.....provided it is NOT adjustable
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:31 AM   #23
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Shimmed pivot ball and put syncromesh in i now love my car again.
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Old 04-15-2010, 07:32 AM   #24
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That's good to hear. Bet you're happy!!
Just make sure you keep the freeplay set correctly. The clutch will live a lot longer.

Do you remember how much you had to change the length of the pivot post?
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:12 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Shimmed pivot ball and put syncromesh in i now love my car again.
Good and bad news all in one! Glad its fixed, now I know the work ahead of me..
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