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Old 03-03-2010, 09:30 PM   #1
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Default This car is KICKING my ass

Engine is done, Stainless Works longtubes are on, ready to drop in!

.....but it wont go in.

Apparently when you have longtubes and a Moroso Oil pan, shit just doesnt work.

I tried every possible way to get the damn thing in but there is no way in hell the pan will clear the K-Member enough to get it in.

Im furious, but will listen to suggestions.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:37 PM   #2
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is the pan designed to work with the stock k-member?

i dont have any experience with mod motor stuff but you may have to drop the k-member to install the headers?
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:38 PM   #3
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:45 PM   #4
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is the pan designed to work with the stock k-member?

i dont have any experience with mod motor stuff but you may have to drop the k-member to install the headers?

+1...i always drop the k to put headers on, i dont have experience with your brand oil pan but if it is designed to fit with a stock K member..especially with the long tubes already on, have you thought about installing the motor from the bottom of the car not the top dont know if that will help but hope it works out.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:45 PM   #5
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This is the pan:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/205...oductId=763991
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:47 PM   #6
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+1...i always drop the k to put headers on, i dont have experience with your brand oil pan but if it is designed to fit with a stock K member..especially with the long tubes already on, have you thought about installing the motor from the bottom of the car not the top dont know if that will help but hope it works out.
I have an eeery feeling Im gonna be dropping the k-Member..

Nothing in the world related to a Cobra is easy, and now I know why shops charge an arm and a leg to work on them.

Its times like this I can fully appreciate a Marauder.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:51 PM   #7
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Zack,

you have a lift correct? dropping the K should take less than a half hr!. what i would try if me, loosen K, put jack stands under K and completely remove, raise car, put engine on K, lower car back down. It might be frusterating but that might be your only way of installing the motor with the headers on....
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:54 PM   #8
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Zack,

you have a lift correct? dropping the K should take less than a half hr!. what i would try if me, loosen K, put jack stands under K and completely remove, raise car, put engine on K, lower car back down. It might be frusterating but that might be your only way of installing the motor with the headers on....
I might do some stock K-Member modification. Im getting pretty good at welding.


EDIT: It needs to be modded right at a very importand weld, Ill just drop the damn K-Member so I can get on with my life
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:09 PM   #9
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you defiantly need to drop the k member, ive done headers a few times.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:19 PM   #10
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you defiantly need to drop the k member, ive done headers a few times.
Its a completely assembled engine with headers and a sumped pan we are talking about. Im installing it all bolted on, but the pan hits the K.

BS I tell you!
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:35 PM   #11
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The k-mkember needs to be notched. We've done it here already. We did it with the motor in the car though. If I remember correctly, it was the rear of the passenger side of the k-member where the pan hit the k-member. If you're careful, you can trim it right up to the weld, but leave the weld, or most of it, intact.
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:00 AM   #12
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If I ever had to pull my motor I would never attempt to pull it or drop it back in with the long tube headers still on
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Old 03-04-2010, 06:51 AM   #13
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Its a completely assembled engine with headers and a sumped pan we are talking about. Im installing it all bolted on, but the pan hits the K.

BS I tell you!
When I built my last motor on a stand I had the same issue, headers were on ready to go and a trans, but when I dropped the package in it did no go gracefully. I still was able to get it by jacking the car way up in the air while using the load leveler to make the engine as vertical as possible. It still was a fight but I made that bitch do what I wanted without touching the K.

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Old 03-04-2010, 08:17 AM   #14
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The k-mkember needs to be notched. We've done it here already. We did it with the motor in the car though. If I remember correctly, it was the rear of the passenger side of the k-member where the pan hit the k-member. If you're careful, you can trim it right up to the weld, but leave the weld, or most of it, intact.
Great info, thanks!

I think Im gonna drop it down a few inches though to accomplish this task.
If ever I was to sell the car the 'notch' could send people running.
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:39 AM   #15
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Great info, thanks!

I think Im gonna drop it down a few inches though to accomplish this task.
If ever I was to sell the car the 'notch' could send people running.
What was your ultimate solution here Zack?

Once again we're having very similar "issues". I was able to get the motor and long-tubes in from the top, but the oil pan, same Moroso as you most likely, sits up against the k-member and as a result the motor mounts won't seat in the k-member correctly. I was also advised to notch the k-member as a solution and was wondering what you finally wound up doing.
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:45 AM   #16
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I have always dropped motors in with long tubes on and stock K but never with aftermarket pan. Sounds like that pan is fuckin ya and your gonna end up dropping the K. :-(
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Old 05-17-2010, 12:25 PM   #17
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What was your ultimate solution here Zack?

Once again we're having very similar "issues". I was able to get the motor and long-tubes in from the top, but the oil pan, same Moroso as you most likely, sits up against the k-member and as a result the motor mounts won't seat in the k-member correctly. I was also advised to notch the k-member as a solution and was wondering what you finally wound up doing.
Just notch the k-member. We had to do it on Lyle's car and Tim's car. They both had the oversize oil pans. Like I told Zack, you can notch it right up to the weld and that should give you the clearance you need. A torch or a cut off wheel and a grinder will do the job nicely.


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Old 05-17-2010, 12:37 PM   #18
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I removed the rear K-Member bolts altogether and backed the front ones out (did NOT remove) The engine went right in after I did this.
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Old 05-17-2010, 01:36 PM   #19
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Thanks for the replies guys. A strategy has been devised.

P.S. Zack, - Fore just sent my setup back to me. It's ready to drop in when/if I ever get to that point.
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Old 05-17-2010, 01:38 PM   #20
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I have always dropped motors in with long tubes on and stock K but never with aftermarket pan. Sounds like that pan is fuckin ya and your gonna end up dropping the K. :-(
Chad, you have any issues with the driver side valve cover clearing the brake hardware. I had to remove the valve cover to clear the hydroboost.
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Old 05-17-2010, 02:22 PM   #21
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Thanks for the replies guys. A strategy has been devised.

P.S. Zack, - Fore just sent my setup back to me. It's ready to drop in when/if I ever get to that point.
Good deal, measure it anyways
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:58 PM   #22
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with my 7 qt canton pan and kooks 1 3/4 longtubes and tranny attached i didnt have to completely drop the K-member just enough to give it some play.
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:16 AM   #23
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I put the trans back in last night, after having to remove it to shim the pivot ball for the Spec 3+. With one thick washer, its all good now.
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