66K mile shortblock, what should be done while its apart ???

[FESTER665]

Okay, my game plan is to get all these damn oil leaks taken care of this winter and also add a power adder (hopefully turbo with 8 or so pounds of boost) to it. Im planning on getting a nice 4 bolt block made within 2 years if money allows. Much sooner if I "accidentally" split the stock block.

Now, I have about $800 to spend currently, so is there anything I should do to this motor while its apart ??? I would like to buy stuff that would be able to make it to the new combo once its built if possible. So far Im going to be getting new motor mounts and trans mount since the old ones were in bad shape (15 years can do that to them), and tall valve covers that I can put breathers into just to make sure everything is vented well.

My clutch looks kinda worn down, but I dont remember how thick they were to begin with. It's been in there for about 30K miles, so should I change that while everythings apart ??? What about a new aluminum flywheel instead of resurfacing the heavy steel one ??? Should I buy ARP studs instead of reusing my ARP bolts ??? Should I add a bung for the oil return while the pan is off the car ???

Any other suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.

The car already has H/C/I, so other than that I think im pretty much open to suggestions. It would be nice if all things bought could go over to the new motor once I can swing it as well.

Click to read more...

 

[Ear Rak]

Okay, my game plan is to get all these damn oil leaks taken care of this winter and also add a power adder (hopefully turbo with 8 or so pounds of boost) to it. Im planning on getting a nice 4 bolt block made within 2 years if money allows. Much sooner if I "accidentally" split the stock block.

Now, I have about $800 to spend currently, so is there anything I should do to this motor while its apart ??? I would like to buy stuff that would be able to make it to the new combo once its built if possible. So far Im going to be getting new motor mounts and trans mount since the old ones were in bad shape (15 years can do that to them), and tall valve covers that I can put breathers into just to make sure everything is vented well.

My clutch looks kinda worn down, but I dont remember how thick they were to begin with. It's been in there for about 30K miles, so should I change that while everythings apart ??? What about a new aluminum flywheel instead of resurfacing the heavy steel one ??? Should I buy ARP studs instead of reusing my ARP bolts ??? Should I add a bung for the oil return while the pan is off the car ???

Any other suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.

The car already has H/C/I, so other than that I think im pretty much open to suggestions. It would be nice if all things bought could go over to the new motor once I can swing it as well.

Do a 331 kit with some forged pistons and then run the blower/turbo at 11 lbs.

 

[FESTER665]

Not worth it with the stock block IMO. I thought about that, but I just dont think its worth it to do that unless youre going to put in a 4 bolt block. The turbo would make more than enough power to split the block by itself, let alone adding cubes and more boost. Im more worried about the little things that I should look into while its apart, like should I add a different oil pan instead of just putting a bung into the stock one, what about the harmonic balancer are they good for a certain amount of miles or should I check it for anything ??? What about new pilot and throwout bearings, etc....

The 331 kit will come when I do a 4 bolt block for sure though.

 

[1MEANGT]

Okay, my game plan is to get all these damn oil leaks taken care of this winter and also add a power adder (hopefully turbo with 8 or so pounds of boost) to it. Im planning on getting a nice 4 bolt block made within 2 years if money allows. Much sooner if I "accidentally" split the stock block.

Now, I have about $800 to spend currently, so is there anything I should do to this motor while its apart ??? I would like to buy stuff that would be able to make it to the new combo once its built if possible. So far Im going to be getting new motor mounts and trans mount since the old ones were in bad shape (15 years can do that to them), and tall valve covers that I can put breathers into just to make sure everything is vented well.

My clutch looks kinda worn down, but I dont remember how thick they were to begin with. It's been in there for about 30K miles, so should I change that while everythings apart ??? What about a new aluminum flywheel instead of resurfacing the heavy steel one ??? Should I buy ARP studs instead of reusing my ARP bolts ??? Should I add a bung for the oil return while the pan is off the car ???

Any other suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.

The car already has H/C/I, so other than that I think im pretty much open to suggestions. It would be nice if all things bought could go over to the new motor once I can swing it as well.

What kind of clutch is in there now? I would change it while it's out of the car, just much easier. If your flywheel is good, just have it resurfaced. I still use the stock one just fine.

Are you planning on taking the heads off? If so then go with ARP studs. If the heads don't need to come off then I would just leave them.

And yes, add the oil bung of you are planning on going with a turbo/supercharger. Much easier with the pan off. Just make sure you put it above the oil level in the pan. Vortech should have instructions on their site.

Sounds like you are on the right track man. If you need a hand let me know.

 

[FESTER665]

Its a centerforce dual friction. The orange paint that was all on the pressure plate from them is like a fine orange dust ALL over the place inside the bellhousing now, its ridiculous.

I planned on taking the heads off as well since I have a complete gasket kit that has every gasket on the motor, so I was planning on changing every one while it was out, cleaning it up and painting the block and such as well. The header bolts that connect the short tubes to the h-pipe snapped off, so if I dont end up going turbo I'll have to buy new tubes as well.

Im going to be getting a battery relocation kit as well so I can clean the engine bay up even more, so its going to be a nice long winter project but should look GREAT once it's done.....

For the mounts, is it always better to go with the more expensive poly mounts im assuming ???

 

[REN#4106]

For the mounts, is it always better to go with the more expensive poly mounts im assuming ???

its not like a MUST...but....yes because they dont break down like the rubber ones do

 

[REN#4106]

id probally put a new oil pump in it for shits and grins cause they are cheap and you will have the pan off

 

[aod92]

I would deffinetly do an oil pump, timing chain, bung in the pan, and head studs if your planning on boost down the road.

 

[Maniak]

Not worth it with the stock block IMO. I thought about that, but I just dont think its worth it to do that unless youre going to put in a 4 bolt block. The turbo would make more than enough power to split the block by itself, let alone adding cubes and more boost.

The 331 kit will come when I do a 4 bolt block for sure though.

i have the same thought process with my 5.0. just doesnt make sense to have 600hp on a stock block when its anyones guess to how long it will stay together. why spend all the money on a ticking time bomb!

 

[FESTER665]

i have the same thought process with my 5.0. just doesnt make sense to have 600hp on a stock block when its anyones guess to how long it will stay together. why spend all the money on a ticking time bomb!

Not only that, but knowing my luck splitting the block would take out some part of the stroker rotating assembly and I would have to buy a new one of those to go into the 4 bolt block, so it would be even more money then.... Ill pass.

 

[batman]

bad tune and high rpms ruin a stock block....

 

[Bigturbonotch]

+1

 

[Maniak]

bad tune and high rpms ruin a stock block....

even if u have a good tune, it will last but its anyone's guess as to how long.

 

[sshocker96]

No power adder now right? I would def do the Harmonic Balancer & pilot bearing, basically anything that would be a PITA to work on while the motor is in the car. Like Maniak said, no need for all the extra stuff with a stock block. HV/HD oil pumps, water pumps, etc.

Also, if you're gonna do the poly motor mounts, consider the whole kit. When I did mine, I bought the motor & trans mounts. Now I'm thinking I should've done the suspension stuff too. I know how money burns a hole in your pocket during a rebuild, good luck!

BTW, do a little research over on the corral about the gaskets. I bought the same gasket rebuild kit & ended up using about half of it. Bought better head, lower intake & oil pan gaskets. First head gasket blew (Probably due to installer error), lower intake gasket seems to have improved throughout the years, but if you order based on the year of your car, you get what you ask for. I REFUSED to use to two piece oil pan gasket & bought a one peice. Let me know if you need more info.

 

[FESTER665]

Few more questions.....

Is it worth the $12 to go with 12 point head studs instead of the normal hex ones ???

Whats a good balancer to get, Im assuming SFI, but I would like to get one that isnt going to be a waste of $200+ once I get either a 28oz or a 0 balanced motor down the road..... I assume they make some with changable weights or something ??? Are the fluid filled ones crap ???

Does anyone know where to get those bungs from ?? DSS has ones that you can bolt on, or they have a 7qt pan with the bung built in, but I dont know if I need to spend $300 on a new pan at this point ?!?!?!?

 

[sshocker96]

If this is just a 'get by' rebuild AND you're NA, I would prolly go with a stock balancer.

As far as the studs, I just went with the basic ARP stud kit. Doubt if it was 12 pt.

If you can reuse he oil pan with the new block, & you have the cash, I'd spring for the pan now. If money is tight and/or the pan isn't reuseable with the next block, I would hold off.

As far as the bung goes, I honestly have no idea. But since the motor will be broken down anyway, why not just tap the stock pan? I know people worry about shavings, as was I, but with the block apart, you can make sure it's clean before install. Unless I'm missing something else (which wouldn't be beyond reasonable!).

Again, good luck & just take your time. During my rebuild, I made a lot of bonehead moves & had to redo things, but it's all a great learning experience.

 

[FESTER665]

The car will have a turbo or S/C on it after this rebuild, hopefully getting me 2 years with a safe tune until I can swing a 4 bolt block.... So Im guessing I should look into an SFI balancer while im at it....

 

[Pressure Ratio]

Few more questions.....

Is it worth the $12 to go with 12 point head studs instead of the normal hex ones ???

Does anyone know where to get those bungs from ?? DSS has ones that you can bolt on, or they have a 7qt pan with the bung built in, but I dont know if I need to spend $300 on a new pan at this point ?!?!?!?

I like the 12 point just for the reason the hex heads can interfear with things like headers and rockers. Not a huge clearance difference but might be just enough.

Just have someone weld in a steel NPT threaded bung. Then when you want to add the oil return you can buy a NPT to male -AN fitting. Done.

 

[1MEANGT]

As far as a balancer goes get a SFI one. I got a powerbond SFI 1 piece balancer from AD Performance for somewhere around $170. It is a very nice piece for the money. I did have to get a 50oz and if I ever build a stroker motor I will have to buy another one. But I can still sell this one for some decent coin when the time comes.

 

[FESTER665]

I like the 12 point just for the reason the hex heads can interfear with things like headers and rockers. Not a huge clearance difference but might be just enough.

Just have someone weld in a steel NPT threaded bung. Then when you want to add the oil return you can buy a NPT to male -AN fitting. Done.

Is there an average size that should be used for oil returns ??? Like 3/8", 1/2", etc... ???

 

[Pressure Ratio]

Is there an average size that should be used for oil returns ??? Like 3/8", 1/2", etc... ???

I have a 3/8" NPT bung as the Vortech return fitting was 3/8 NPT. Seems big enough. Never had a issue. Just make sure the return fitting is high enough on the pan that it is not below the oil line. Maybe check out the instructions for the Vortech kit as it shows where to install it. link

 

[1MEANGT]

i have a 3/8" npt bung as the vortech return fitting was 3/8 npt. Seems big enough. Never had a issue. Just make sure the return fitting is high enough on the pan that it is not below the oil line. Maybe check out the instructions for the vortech kit as it shows where to install it. link

+1

 

[FESTER665]

Sounds good.....

So can I pop the dizzy out of here right away, or is there some marking or something I should be doing to make sure it goes back in at the right spot ???

Also, do the lifters, pushrods, and rockers have to stay in the order they came off, or can I just oull everything off and then reassemble later with no issues ???

Thanks as always for helping with my never ending sting of questions...