Sticky Spray for supercharger belt
- Thread starter imbuggin
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being involved with renegade since the class was created, i have seen and tried about every trick to make boost with an 8rib serpentine belt.. Now-a-days, 35psi is common with these small belts.. Here is what i KNOW......
#1 any type of belt dressing DOES NOT WORK... the only thing it does is makes a mess that you will NEVER get off.. its lilke spider webs in your engine compartment
#2 belt wrap means NOTHING..
#3 there isnt a "special" belt... gates, dayco, and goodyear work equally as well..
THE ONLY THING THAT WORKS is belt tension.. the tighter you have the belt, the better... thats why i designed and sold a strut brace to take the load off the crank and supercharger bearings.. This wont help you, but just letting you know..
Take it with a grain of salt, but I have made 35psi with 8ribs..
#1 any type of belt dressing DOES NOT WORK... the only thing it does is makes a mess that you will NEVER get off.. its lilke spider webs in your engine compartment
#2 belt wrap means NOTHING..
#3 there isnt a "special" belt... gates, dayco, and goodyear work equally as well..
THE ONLY THING THAT WORKS is belt tension.. the tighter you have the belt, the better... thats why i designed and sold a strut brace to take the load off the crank and supercharger bearings.. This wont help you, but just letting you know..
Take it with a grain of salt, but I have made 35psi with 8ribs..
thanks for the advice guys. I am not even sure I am getting slipping yet. I feel like I lost some power and can't seem get get my boost gauges to 9.5 like I used to. I am seeing like 6.5-7 lbs. I guess I need to head to the dyno to find out.
Is it possible it it just due to the high weather temp lately? The belt is hotter and stretching a bit? The issue seems to come about after warm weather temps? Last time it was adjusted is was cool out.
Is it possible it it just due to the high weather temp lately? The belt is hotter and stretching a bit? The issue seems to come about after warm weather temps? Last time it was adjusted is was cool out.
I would have to disagree with you there Bob. It is a combination of belt tension AND wrap that will achieve the best results. They go hand in hand, and both matter very much. Maximizing both (within reason) is the key.
if we were talking about 10-15psi, then belt wrap may help belt slippage.. but not on anything above that...
Bob, maximum reasonable belt wrap is recommended at any boost pressure. It is simple engineering. At a given contact pressure, the less contact surface the less grip. Increase contact surface area (belt wrap) and increase grip. Increase contact pressure increase grip. Increase both and you will see the best gains. They both rely upon each other to succeed. I do believe that tension is more important than wrap but wrap is still one of the main foundations that proper pulley grip is based off of.
This same principle also applies to drag tires too. That is why tire pressure, width (contact surface), and compound are so important among other things. But If you do not have proper weight transfer (contact pressure) then it still doesn't mean much. Regardless, they both still reply upon one another to be the most effective at doing their jobs.
While I agree that tension may be more important than belt wrap I still would never refer to belt wrap as "meaning nothing".
belt wrap means little.. how's that??
putting all physics aside, i worked for 5yrs to figure out how to make boost on an 8rib serpentine belt... 20psi was all we could normally get until the belt would physically SMOKE... tried belt dressing, belt wrap, sand blasting pulleys, media blasting pulleys, an even reichard racing pulleys... after everything was said and done, recutting the grooves in the pulley to "squeeze" the ribs more aggressively and overall belt tension was how we finally achieved 35+psi on an 8rib pulley..
As a matter of fact, i had a whipple 3.4 car on the dyno last night with big idlers (100mm) etc on it.. had a reichard solid tensioner as well... all the belt wrap in the world didnt do anything.. we bottomed out the tensioner and at the hit of the throttle, the blower made 30psi and by 7000, it was down to 18psi... he is coming back with a shorter belt and i am 100% confident with more tension, it will make 30psi consistently through the RPM range.
Believe me, i understand what you are saying.. but, tightening a belt is a HELL of a lot cheaper and easier then installing more tensioners etc.
my $.02
putting all physics aside, i worked for 5yrs to figure out how to make boost on an 8rib serpentine belt... 20psi was all we could normally get until the belt would physically SMOKE... tried belt dressing, belt wrap, sand blasting pulleys, media blasting pulleys, an even reichard racing pulleys... after everything was said and done, recutting the grooves in the pulley to "squeeze" the ribs more aggressively and overall belt tension was how we finally achieved 35+psi on an 8rib pulley..
As a matter of fact, i had a whipple 3.4 car on the dyno last night with big idlers (100mm) etc on it.. had a reichard solid tensioner as well... all the belt wrap in the world didnt do anything.. we bottomed out the tensioner and at the hit of the throttle, the blower made 30psi and by 7000, it was down to 18psi... he is coming back with a shorter belt and i am 100% confident with more tension, it will make 30psi consistently through the RPM range.
Believe me, i understand what you are saying.. but, tightening a belt is a HELL of a lot cheaper and easier then installing more tensioners etc.
my $.02
That would depend on the vehicle. Usually those manual tensioners aren't cheap. In most people's cases where they use their vehicle on the street they would be better served to maximize belt wrap on their s/c pulley before going the route of a manual tensioner. It is simpler and cheaper in some cases. If the person is running 20+ psi on a supercharger then chances are it is not much of a weekend street car anyways and the person is probably willing to spend the extra money and take the extra time to do the manual tensioner as well.
I suppose it comes down to preference between what you or I recommend. I prefer to make sure I have as much belt wrap as possible and THEN crank the tensioner down for max friction on the s/c pulley if needed. It puts less stress on accessories and their bearings while still accomplishing proper grip.
i made the comment about tightening the belt because I have dynoed this car in person and the belt was loose... all that would require was a shorter belt.
Of course it is going to slip if the belt is too long. That has nothing to do with whether you are using a manual are spring tensioner, belt wrap or not... I do not see why you chose to use that example as it didn't really seem to match the context of what you were talking about in your previous post. All the belt wrap in the world is not going to help if the belt itself is too long to get proper tension, let alone cranking it down beyond that. That is something that both you, me, and many other people are well aware of.
I believe that for any of us to be able to give anything better than just general guidelines that Imbuggin would be best served to post a picture or two of his front accessories so that we can see what may be the problem if it is indeed a belt slippage issue.
Bob,
Since than the car has had a smaller pulley, new smaller belt, Fuel system and new dyno tune. I had all those issues fixed and running well. It was running a solid 9.5 lbs in the spring now showing its 6.5-7 lbs and I can't find a leak. Belt seems tight to me, but who the hell I am to tell. I will get it all checked out. I think the heat is playing a big factor?
I am thinking of building up the bottom end for more boost this winter anyhow:burnout:
I will need to get a better shot from the other side all I have now uploaded is these and they do little you can't see the belt. You can kinda see I have some heavy duty brackets built
I will try to get some photos later that show more
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