Clutch always engaged? (95 SHO taurus)

[syP]

My motorswap/clutch is coming up very soon and i wanna know what i am getting myself into.


The previous owner has been through 3 clutches in a year. It was perfectly fine when i owned it 2 years ago

Right now the clutch is permanately engaged. The only way to drive it is to start it in gear (starter starts to push the car forward). The only way to shift is to turn the car off, shift, then start the car again. When i push in the clutch pedal, nothing happens. Kinda hard to tell if its the normal feel since im used to my stage 4 in my cobalt My driveway has an incline. With the car off and in gear, its nearly impossible to shift since the synchros do not wanna let me out since the clutch is engaged.

This is a cable clutch

Only thing we notice is the clutch cable physically moves. What are the possible causes?

I am trying to get ahold of the previous owner to find out, how long AFTER the new clutch(s) were installed, when they failed.


Any questions please ask, need to figure this out.

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[Lord Tin Foilhat]

wd-40?

 

[SRT41320]

cable stretched? pressure plate fucked up? clutch fork?

 

[2step Performance]

what kinda clutch is it stock?

 

[Dasfinc]

My motorswap/clutch is coming up very soon and i wanna know what i am getting myself into.


The previous owner has been through 3 clutches in a year. It was perfectly fine when i owned it 2 years ago

Right now the clutch is permanately engaged. The only way to drive it is to start it in gear (starter starts to push the car forward). The only way to shift is to turn the car off, shift, then start the car again. When i push in the clutch pedal, nothing happens. Kinda hard to tell if its the normal feel since im used to my stage 4 in my cobalt My driveway has an incline. With the car off and in gear, its nearly impossible to shift since the synchros do not wanna let me out since the clutch is engaged.

This is a cable clutch

Only thing we notice is the clutch cable physically moves. What are the possible causes?

I am trying to get ahold of the previous owner to find out, how long AFTER the new clutch(s) were installed, when they failed.


Any questions please ask, need to figure this out.

Are you familiar with how to drive it Clutchlessly? I taught Paul how to do it on my civic, I'm sure he could probably do the same on the SHO if you need to bring it somewhere. (Or I could as well if need be)

I have to agree with other members that its quite possibly 'stretched' or damaged, especially with the previous owner being as idiotic of a driver as he was.

 

[Slider]

First thing would be to definitely make sure the clutch cable is 100%. If it's nothing external it must be something inside and you'll have to drop the tranny. It's possible that the TO bearing is out or the clutch is a goner, one of the springs on the clutch could've popped out and is holding it engaged, seen it happen with aftermarket clutches

 

[syP]

yes i know how to drive without a clutch... but the problem is, when you try to force it past the synchros it just grinds... and im talkin trying to get OUT of the current gear.


oh regardless i am putting a clutch/flywheel in it as its a race car

 

[LSx S10]

sounds like the clutch cable is stretching. happened to my buddies 95 mustang, same symptoms.

 

[syP]

this would cause it to run okay for X amount of months with a new clutch, then fail again?

 

[NetChemica]

this would cause it to run exactly the same with a new clutch?

yep, you got it

 

[E]

yup sounds like the cable to me too. Tho never seen one before. When the clutch was replaced was the throw out bearing also replaced?
If it is the Cable then maybe get an extended fork to have less stress on the cable.

 

[NetChemica]

yup sounds like the cable to me too. Tho never seen one before. When the clutch was replaced was the throw out bearing also replaced?
If it is the Cable then maybe get an extended fork to have less stress on the cable.

If he gets an extended fork, then the clutch won't disengage anyway. The clutch pedal is going through its entire range of movement anyway.

 

[LSx S10]

this would cause it to run okay for X amount of months with a new clutch, then fail again?

maybe, if you push the clutch pedal 100% but the pressure plate only releases 60% its going to still be engaging all the time. so sitting at a light with the clutch in and in 1st gear, the clutch is still somewhat engaged. probably got pretty hot after awhile, maybe the reason it failed?

 

[E]

If he gets an extended fork, then the clutch won't disengage anyway. The clutch pedal is going through its entire range of movement anyway.

Only a suggestion but i'm sure there would be a way to adjust.
I also meant to get the extended fork with a new cable.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

you cant just adjust the cable? does the pedal feel like its not doing anything?

i adjusted my cable pretty easily when i moved my clutch pedal farther in to match my brake pedal.

 

[syP]

the pedal is definatley normal...


i *think* i feel the friction point (but then again see above... used to my cobalt clutch)

I did the self adjustment procedure and it still feels the same.


I had a buddy watch while i pushed the clutch in, and the cable is and was very tight.