Installed my Wide-band, Found out something interesting

Dasfinc

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My car leans out at high revs :noes:

Under idle or crusing it jounces back and forth between 14-16ish, typically staying toward 14. Under WOT in any gear, it goes to and stays at 13.8-14.0 untill it reaches 5700RPM about where it pegs out the gauge at 16.8.

I've noticed almost since I did the swap that it always 'breaks up' a little around 6K RPM, and after driving matts integra I found that it didn't have that problem.

Any ideas guys?
 

Dasfinc

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Make sure your gauge is calibrated first of all so you are getting a correct reading. Your AF ratios should be in the 12s when WOT. That shit needs a tune if calibrating the gauge doesnt help

I assume calibrating it is in the manual somewhere?

How do you calibrate yours?

I was talking to Kamil last night and was thinking maybe the fuel pump is struggling? (Considering its been handling an 8 valve 70hp motor with shitty city gas for 100K miles, and suddenly this)
 

Lord Tin Foilhat

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yes you have to calibrate it OUT of the exhaust in clean air. like silver said, u should have 11.5-12.4 on WOT my car was RICH as hell at running 10.2...

i would NOT go WOT if that reading is correct.... it will only end in a boom.

14-16 is about right... but it should hover around 14.4-14.8 because its trying to get 14.6 which is the perfect mixture of air and fuel
 

Dasfinc

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Click the link, page 9 shows how, and shows settings, but I have no idea what any of it means....


I REALLY can't believe I need a tune for a motor with a MAP sensor and a intake, with a stock header.

the car RIPS, and runs great, but always just had that break-up, and now I that I can SEE it...
 
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Dasfinc

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as stupid question this may be... u do have the wideband o2 sensor installed right.. and its not just taped as a narrowband

I followed the instructions on the thing so I'd imagine so, its an AEM unit that retails at $289 new, and gets quite a few good reviews.

There are 4 wires for the gauge, red (power) Black (ground) blue (datalogging, it says I don't need that) and White (Signal, which it also says it doesnt need, I believe this is if I wanted to run the wideband instead of my stock O2)

*And there are 6 wires going from the gauge to the O2 sensor which uses a plug that comes pre-wired out of the box*


How is your fuel pressure at WOT?

I know it was mentioned earlier that I can run one up through my cowl to see it, but I don't understand how it would attach to my stock rail.
 

Dasfinc

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k...just wanted to make sure

:s00ls:

I suspect the gauge is correct because it pegs to 16.8 the SECOND I feel it start to break up at 5700RPM (and I've read my car is supposed to idle in the mid 14's as the gauge is displaying)... even if its not PERFECT, its defiantly confirming that my car isn't getting enough fuel up top.


another question.

when I lift it goes lean *crusing in 5th, if I leave it in gear with no throttle*

I assume this is correct as well? (sorry for the stupid questions guys, I'm trying to learn tuning and I want to do my next bigger mods the right way)


and ANOTHER:

if I buy a 255 Walbro pump for my car it should just be plug and play correct?
 

Dasfinc

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holy shit :eek3: 16.8??? good christ...tho i really dont know what is "too lean" on hondas...i know anything over like 12.1 on my previous cars meant danger

14.5 at idle is correct for the civic I've read, and WOT at 13.7-.8 doesn't seem that far fetched? *its like 2 clicks past green on the wideband gauge*

but yes, 16.8 worries me. I've already warned Kim not to take it above 4 grand anymore until I've figured this out. (she never really beats on it anyways)
 

Lord Tin Foilhat

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12.4 is the HIGHEST you really want to go on a tune.. thats lean as hell.

13.7 is pushing it big time.

16.8 is boom

and yes if your in gear and the revs go down it will skyrocket your wideband to way lean.. mine went off my guage 20+ and then just flashed o2. its because its pulling the fuel to drop the revs and your sucking up more air... thats is completly normal and nothing to worry about because the engine isnt under load when going down like that
 

Bru

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14.7 is the ideal A/f for a factory bone-stock car as far as fuel economy, emissions, etc. Air and fuel will burn most efficient with that a/f, but that's not ideal for performance. Performance a/f ratios are closer to 12.5. All this depends on the car and such, however.
 

Dasfinc

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14.7 is the ideal A/f for a factory bone-stock car as far as fuel economy, emissions, etc. Air and fuel will burn most efficient with that a/f, but that's not ideal for performance. Performance a/f ratios are closer to 12.5. All this depends on the car and such, however.

Thats what I had read "Stotic" or whatever, so 13.8-14.0 at WOT is fine for a stock ECU, stock motor, but 16.8 at 6000RPM is not.

i doubt its a fuel pump dude

Can't hurt since it has 110K on it, and it was designed to handle 70hp at 5500RPM......
 
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