CV Axel Replacement

TurboACCORD

3rd Mario Brother
Jan 30, 2008
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I'm replacing the CV Axel on the passenger side of my Accord right now. I got it down to just the rotor / wheel spacer. I'm wondering if the last bolt you need to take off (the large one in the middle) has a key that needs to be taken out to take off the bolt, or if the bolt is even reverse thread. I'm sitting here stumped, and almost out of PB. All advice is greatly appreciated...!

Oh, and Mook. I test drove a Lancer 2 days ago :bigthumb:

Lancer GTS is what it looks like we're gettin.
 

Dasfinc

Ready for the EVlution
Sep 28, 2007
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Wheaton, IL
you need to punch/pry out the little lip in the bolt, it is not reverse threaded, just normal lefty loosy, righty tighty affair, but you will need a breaker bar *assuming its the same as my civic*

PIC-0361.jpg
 

Dasfinc

Ready for the EVlution
Sep 28, 2007
20,919
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Wheaton, IL
So would I need to take off my wheel spacers? I already pried out that little lip, but that damn bolt will not budge. I had a ratchet connected to a 2 ft pole for torque and it STILL wouldn't budge. I just sprayed on some WD-40, so that may help...

I used PB blaster, and rented a 30" Breaker Bar from AutoZone and my 215lb ass jumped up and down on it to break them loose.
 

Stink Star

Don’t Drive Angry!
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Jan 20, 2008
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Big wood cock
hehehe "axel" lol!!! yea the AXLE bolt can be a bitch, and on my 91 accord i used an impact to take it off.... where i ran into trouble was taking out the strut "fork" bolt and the upper ball joint castle nut... since you will have to do this, remember!!!!!!! use new cotter pins when you finish!!!!! its cheap insurance
 
You need an impact for that nut. worse case a huge breaker bar and your body weight could help. Or a large pipe as said above. Mind you if you plan to use this much leverage on it, it will need to be a very high quality at least 1/2" breaker bar because doing this risks breaking the bar itself.

After that, you will want to remove the tie rod nut. To release the tie rod from the knuckle, you can hammer on the knuckle AROUND where the tie rod goes through, NOT directly on the tie rod. Hit it hard a few times and it should pop right out.

Then you will want to remove the ball joint nut, and remove it in the same manner as the tie rod. This will let the knuckle swing enough out of the way to let the axle slide back through the hub/rotor. Doing it this way you should have have to dingle around with any of the brakes really.

The biggest PITA on the tie rod nut and the ball joint nut is the cotter pin in each. Be sure to replace them with new ones if you can.

Good luck. I have done a bunch of these on Accords like that, owned one myself too. I am without a computer.

I will PM you my phone number if you have any other questions! IMO Honda CV axles on those Accords are among the easiest.


Good luck!
 

James

TCG Elite Member
Jan 18, 2008
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It's called the "hub nut" and I've never gotten one off without the biggest impact wrench you can find. Good luck with that!

If the axle is gone...clicking when turning...then yeah replace the axle.
If you're just worried about a torn boot- buy a replacement "Speedi-Boot" from an auto store for $10 and you don't need to remove the axle.
 

Stink Star

Don’t Drive Angry!
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Jan 20, 2008
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Big wood cock
After that, you will want to remove the tie rod nut. To release the tie rod from the knuckle, you can hammer on the knuckle AROUND where the tie rod goes through, NOT directly on the tie rod. Hit it hard a few times and it should pop right out.

:dunno:why take out the tie rod? i removed my axles without doing them


and you are right... as far as axles go, these arte some of the easiest
 

TurboACCORD

3rd Mario Brother
Jan 30, 2008
193
0
Ok, so I spent about a day trying to get the hub nut off with a regular adjustable wrench and a huge ass pipe for torque. It's next to impossible. I went to Autozone to find out if they have a socket for it. They said it was between a 32 and a 36, so I got a 32, 34, and 36. All too small. I'm guessing it's a 38, but Autozone doesn't carry that big of a socket. Any ideas? I was thinking of just going to Sears, buying a 38, then returning it after I'm done.

On top of that, I was thinking of saving up some cash for Matt's teg. That way I could constantly be working on my car, but still have a decent car to drive. :dunno:

Oh, and I am going to have to take off my wheel spacer, right?
 
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TurboACCORD

3rd Mario Brother
Jan 30, 2008
193
0
hehehe "axel" lol!!! yea the AXLE bolt can be a bitch, and on my 91 accord i used an impact to take it off.... where i ran into trouble was taking out the strut "fork" bolt and the upper ball joint castle nut... since you will have to do this, remember!!!!!!! use new cotter pins when you finish!!!!! its cheap insurance


There weren't any cotter pins in the bitch when I took off the wheel...?
 
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