Fuel Pressure regulator on 2002 GP GT???

cacicgtp7

Some Military Dude
Nov 9, 2008
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John
So my friend has a 2002 Grand prix with the 3.8 in it, this is a girl mind you. I've never heard of fuel pressure regulators going bad with 80,000 miles but that's just me.

How hard is this to replace, can she do it herself if I explain it over the phone?


Also her MAF is bad as well, but I know that's as easy as a torx screw and plug and play.


Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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have ya torx screwed this girl?

ive seen it more than a few times, its a vacum line, bleed the pressure down through the schrader valve/test fitting then remove a snapring, removal is easier if its sprayed with some penetrating oil to lube the stuck in orings, but with a bit of twisting and prying it'll come right out, lube the new one's o rings and slide it in, iror

if the snapring is on the side towards the blower case she'll want to use a pick to reclock it to an easier location but it can be done on car quite easily
 

cacicgtp7

Some Military Dude
Nov 9, 2008
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Ok I think I know what you're talking about but can someone give me a step by step on the FPR lol.

eaasy todo i will let james explain cuz i could explain it but ill forget like 3 things to tell you and you will light her car on fire...

^ this is why I preferably want the step by step procedure haha




Also I'm not retarded about the mass air flow fix right? It's held on by a torx screw, put it out, but the new MAF sensor in???


Shop is quoting her 1,000 bucks to do both with parts :wtf:
 

DanJ

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$1000 hahahaha, shit i need to be a mechanic. It's held in by 3 or 4 of those security torx screws that need the special torx bits to get out. I bought a whole set of security bits for real cheap at the hardware store.

heads look like this
shop4fasteners_security_screws_machine_screws_pin_torx_countersunk.jpg


set of bits to get this and playground equipment apart
22-1875_2.jpg
 

Yaj Yak

Gladys
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ya u arent retarded about the torx deal. and its a safety torx or something like that with the lil point thing in the center... as for the fuel pressure thing- just seriously. wait til the car is COLD. like not even the slightest bit warm.

and have lots and lots of rags on hand...

also just thinking about it... you could pull the relay or fuse or whatever for the fuel pump... and just let the car run til it "runs out of gas" then you wouldnt have to wait for much of anything in the lines... makes sense in my head... its what i would try. but not sure if it would for sure work.
 

DanJ

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I just put a rag over the schrader valve on the fuel rail with the motor COLD as stated above. and then depressed the pin in the valve with a screwdriver to release the fuel pressure. Pulling the fuel pump fuse or whatever would be less messy i suppose.
 

cacicgtp7

Some Military Dude
Nov 9, 2008
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I just put a rag over the schrader valve on the fuel rail with the motor COLD as stated above. and then depressed the pin in the valve with a screwdriver to release the fuel pressure. Pulling the fuel pump fuse or whatever would be less messy i suppose.

Is it as simple as just pulling the hoses off and some bolts? It's on top of the manifold right? fml.
 

Yaj Yak

Gladys
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i dont even think you will have to touch any bolts... its directly on the fuel rail on the bottom left of it... in the front of the car passenger side... you will just need snap ring pliers to get it out and to disconnect the "t" vaccuum line that is on it... if you were closer id just do it for you- but its a haul up here...
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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make sure key is not in ignition.
pull hood release
reach under left of center of hood to find release lever
pull upward on release lever, lift hood upward
unhook bra seductivly
pull off small black plastic cap on forward section of fuel rail
put a rag around valve while holding a #1 or 2 philips screwdriver int he right hand
hold screwdriver over center of valve and cover with rag to avaid spraying fuel into eye's and press inward on screwdriver to relieve fuel pressure
locate fpr and grasp the vacum line firmly and twist gently on the nipple and pull to remove
locate ring around aerola...i mean fpr and use a pick to pry inward with the fpr snapring and pull out ward working your way around till the ring is removed, alternatly you can use snapring pliers with 1/16ths inch tips to remove it
spray around fpr with penetrating oil or light oil (air tool oil/3-in-one oil)
using pliers grasp nipple/fpr can tightly and gently twist/wiggle it till it pops out of the fpr housing
once it is removed, seductivly oilup the new unit and twist it gently into the wet opening making sure the nipple is perky (pointing upward)
start feeding in the snapring and corkscrew it into the snap ring groove using a pick to pop the tailend into the slot.
slip the fpr vacum line back onto the nipple
reinstal the fuel pressure test fitting cap
start car and check for leaks
take a cold shower you pervs :s00ls:


maf sensor is located on top of TB
the maf sensor is simply
unclip harness connector,
remove two tamper proof torx screws,
twist and pull upward,
make sure oring isnt stuck in opening,
lubricate oring on new maf sensor and slid/twist it gently downward
line up mounting bolt holes
screw it down
plug in harness
clear trouble codes,
start engine and check to make sure ses light stays off
 

cacicgtp7

Some Military Dude
Nov 9, 2008
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Boston, MA
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John
where's the car stuck at? im sure one of us 3800 nutswingers would be happy to help her out

ya sure they gave her a 1k estimate? fpr markup at most should be ~100-150$
the maf sensor is expensive but the labor for both jobs is less than an hour

hey now...no selective editing

lol, the car's out in Scottsdale, AZ. :jg:

I told her it was like 200 in parts at the most. AZ has the MAF for like 140, and the FPR for 48.
 
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