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Old 10-06-2010, 12:21 PM   #1
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Default The rangers winter rebuild: Input?

this is not a 'what if' type of post, this is a "Here is my budget, Here is what I have lined up, what are your suggestions? kind of post, so give me your input

Before I lay it all out, My goal is 300whp give or take, and a mid 13 second pass.

I'm going to budget out $2500 for this over the winter (Parts and labor)

Currently this is the agenda:

Rebuild the longblock and shave .040 off the heads *$550 labor from a 'friend who has a friend that runs a machine shop' essentially* The motor is far from tired, but it burns a bit of oil, and I'd like this to be the last time I have the engine out of the truck for a long time... I'd imagine this will also be advantageous for the cam and valvetrain install.

Torque Monster Headers $680, These are dyno proven for 35hp gain, and are the only quality header that will fit in my motor bay with the 5.0.

Comp Cams K35-349-8 Camshaft Kit (Contains Xe264Hr-14 cam, roller lifters, spider, springs, retainers, associated hardware) $630

*The reason for this cam/kit is the Explorer ECU Stock mapping cannot handle anything less than 114 degrees LSA and be able to maintain idle without aggressive tuning, which no one can seem to provide, Also, this exact 'kit' with roller rockers and an aftermarket dampener dynoed 347 crank HP on an engine dyno at 5800RPM while the current factory redline is 5000*

Comp Cams 1.6 Roller Rockers $150

That totals up to $2010, which gives a $500 cushion for nick-nacks, or other things I'd like to replace 'while I have it all apart'.

Any suggestions? I've been told mixed things about punching it out to a 306 because I'd need new pistons, and additional machine work, for 'minimal' gains.

Like I said, this is just a general 'layout' of what I will be doing with it over winter, and was hoping for some constructive input, even if it is that what I have listed may not be enough to meet my goals, etc.

I hope to EVENTUALLY find a good tuning option, and with that and spray/tire I'd like to crack a 12 second pass before the end of the year.
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:24 PM   #2
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I'd ditch all that computer junk and go carburetor.
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:25 PM   #3
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Carb eh....? Good point as that ECU does seem to be a problem for you.
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:26 PM   #4
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I'd ditch all that computer junk and go carburetor.
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Carb eh....? Good point as that ECU does seem to be a problem for you.
Truck's a 98, and is still in a 'grey' place as far as emissions goes since it is still registered for Ottawa IL......

If I retain the OBD2, I can tune out the CEL's and emission controls. I also like having a stock dashboard and an OEM appearance under the hood.
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:26 PM   #5
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Yea who the fuck wants to (or can) tune a 90's explorer? Nobody that's who!
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:27 PM   #6
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Stand alone fuel management? JK...
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ilikeMTB999 View Post
Yea who the fuck wants to (or can) tune a 90's explorer? Nobody that's who!
I basically got told to go fuck myself by blueovalchips since I have a sniper tuner even IN MY POSSESSION.... I found out that they stole 'everything' from SCT per BOC...

Standalone still appears to be the only 'easy' route, but that will be stupid money... So until then, I'm going to stick with the sniper since it still 'works for the most part of what I need while the SCT doesn't/didn't
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:38 PM   #8
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megasquirt standalone ~500-700$

and it even has built in fan controls
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:55 PM   #9
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megasquirt standalone ~500-700$

and it even has built in fan controls
I wouldn't have the first idea of what to do with that, or how to use it, or how much it would cost to have someone tune it with that....

Suggestions? Links?
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Old 10-06-2010, 01:08 PM   #10
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http://www.msefi.com/index.php

eec4 to ms conversions are rampant prob a few 5's out there
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:13 PM   #11
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F.A.S.T self tuning EFI multiport conversion. Dont know what else you'd need or if its totally plug and play. But it takes the guess work out of tuning and its less than a grand.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:49 PM   #12
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My question is why?
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:55 PM   #13
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I'd go with the stand alone first. It seems the stock ECU is holding you back a lot, plus if you got the stand alone you could go with a more aggressive cam.
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:17 PM   #14
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My question is why?
I think the real question is why not?
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I think the real question is why not?
The real question is why is he in this if he's got nothing to contribute? Don't like it then stay out

I'm sure plenty of mustangs run a bigstuff3. Somebody should be able to tune it no problem.

Then you can get a bigger cam and some budget aluminum heads and go past the 13's.
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:28 PM   #16
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Dan, are you getting the valves done? And where does the oil thats burning come from?
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:30 PM   #17
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Go with a carb and call it a day!!!
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikeMTB999 View Post
The real question is why is he in this if he's got nothing to contribute? Don't like it then stay out

I'm sure plenty of mustangs run a bigstuff3. Somebody should be able to tune it no problem.

Then you can get a bigger cam and some budget aluminum heads and go past the 13's.
That is the 'long term'

If/when I budget a stand alone, I will go Forced Induction with heads, and probably upgrade the cam at the same time.

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Dan, are you getting the valves done? And where does the oil thats burning come from?
Its going to get a typical 'valve job', so thats either 3 or 5 angle, I did not ask.

I really don't know where it is burning. When I FIRST dropped the motor in, it ran rich due to running a return style ECU so it was pumping crazy fuel pressure, but didn't burn anything *Tossed cheap 10-30 in it*, Replaced it with 5-20 synth blend, and it burned it bad *Fowled a set of plugs*, Changed to 10-30 synth blend, and it burns very little, Next change will be 10-30 cheap conventional again to see if that 'resolves it' until the rebuild.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:15 PM   #19
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What did they use on trucks! for the ranger/4.6 swap? I remember it being a cheap and easy to use standalone.

Maybe poops remembers
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
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What did they use on trucks! for the ranger/4.6 swap? I remember it being a cheap and easy to use standalone.

Maybe poops remembers
4.6s are way different than 5.0s
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:44 PM   #21
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I'm well aware. My point was that if a company makes a near plug and play setup for that swap they may make one for a 302 swap or give some insight/help.
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Old 10-07-2010, 06:10 PM   #22
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Or you could just drive it into a river.

Or not.

But perhaps.

Carry on.
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:38 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Or you could just drive it into a river.

Or not.

But perhaps.

Carry on.
Wow act like a dickbag much?
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:49 PM   #24
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On occasion it just happens, what can I say?
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
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On occasion it just happens, what can I say?
Just seems like something a mod shouldn't say

But then again I guess you get to do what you want....
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