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Old 08-29-2010, 02:44 PM   #1
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Default 1999 Malibu P1626-Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Not Received

My brother drives a 99 Malibu and lately it has been randomly dieing and sometimes won't start. I hooked it up to my HP Tuner today and pulled up a "P1626-Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Not Received" code. I am seeing a procedure on the HPT forum to disable the VATS but I am not quite sure if that will remedy his intermittent dieing and not starting issues. I saw disable VATS and immediately thought of Turbocharged400sbc and that twin engine Cutlass. Anybody have any experience with this?
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Old 08-29-2010, 02:51 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02SSEi View Post
My brother drives a 99 Malibu and lately it has been randomly dieing and sometimes won't start. I hooked it up to my HP Tuner today and pulled up a "P1626-Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Not Received" code. I am seeing a procedure on the HPT forum to disable the VATS but I am not quite sure if that will remedy his intermittent dieing and not starting issues. I saw disable VATS and immediately thought of Turbocharged400sbc and that twin engine Cutlass. Anybody have any experience with this?
the fuel enable code is only transmitted while cranking, so if it dies while driving start looking at the ign switch which has the passkey2 or 3 sensor inside it

or use a dhp (> hpt) and permanently fix it through deletion in which case youll likely find the intermittent stalling/dieing while driving continues till the ign switch is replaced or whatever issue thats pressent is fixed
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:24 PM   #3
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Sounds like this may end up being a real pain in the dick.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:25 PM   #4
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o that shit is shit. i hated that stuff.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:26 PM   #5
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passkey2 shit is retarded. i fought my buddies grand am for days with reprogramming shit.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:28 PM   #6
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It's weird because that is the only DTC the car had with the key in the on position. I'm wondering if i start it if it will show more. My car has a shit ton of codes.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:56 PM   #7
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CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) system is incorporated within the Body Control Module (BCM) . The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors the state of health serial data message from the Theft Deterrent system to ensure that the PCM to BCM communications is established. If the PCM detects a loss of the state of health message while the engine is running, DTC P1626 will set. DTC P1626 can cause a no-start condition or normal operation depending on when the loss of Theft Deterrent system communication was detected. The engine will continue to start and run if the condition that set DTC P1626 occurred after the PCM received a valid theft deterrent password from the BCM and already allowed fuel during the ignition cycle. The engine will start and immediately stall if the condition that set DTC P1626 occurred before the PCM received a valid theft deterrent password. With this condition present, the PCM will inhibit fuel delivery and disable the starter until a valid theft deterrent password is detected. Refer to Content Theft Deterrent (CTD) Circuit Description.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC
The Theft Deterrent system has allowed fuel delivery.

CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
The PCM has detected a loss of the state of health serial data message from the Theft Deterrent system.

ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS
  • The PCM will not illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) .
  • The PCM will store conditions which were present when the DTC set as Failure Records data only. This information will not be stored as Freeze Frame data.
CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC

  • A History DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles have occurred without a malfunction.
  • The DTC can be cleared by using a scan tool.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
For complete serial data line schematics and VTD system diagnosis, refer to Data Link Connector (DLC) Schematics in Data Link Communications and Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Operation in Vehicle Theft Deterrent.

An intermittent may be caused by:

  • A poor connection
  • Rubbed through wire insulation
  • A wire broken inside the insulation Check for the following conditions:
IMPORTANT: Several BCM diagnostic procedures call for disconnecting the BCM and then turning the vehicle ignition to the RUN position. These procedures will result in the PCM setting DTC P1626. Therefore, DTC P1626 stored in history may be the result of previous BCM diagnostic work.


  • Intermittent short circuit on the serial data circuit - Refer to Data Link Communications Operation in Data Link Communications. Be sure to check all related wiring for an intermittent short to ground or short to voltage.
  • Poor connection - Inspect the PCM and BCM harness and connectors for:
  • Improper mating
  • Broken locks
  • Improperly formed or damaged terminals
  • Poor terminal to wire connection
  • Damaged harness - Inspect the wiring harness for damage. Check for an intermittent short or open circuit in the wiring harnesses related to the BCM, including the ignition, battery feed, ground, and Serial Data circuits.
Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition. If the DTC cannot be duplicated and is determined to be intermittent, reviewing the Failure Records can be useful in determining when the DTC was last set. Also refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Diagrams.
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:00 PM   #8
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your issue may be more related to the serial buss communication or lack thereof

you can run a new wire from the bcm to the pcm and see if the code returns...then the diagnostic chart says to replace pcm
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:16 PM   #9
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Looks like Tuesday is going to be a good time. Bonneville ball joints and sweating over pinout diagrams for this shit box.
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:25 PM   #10
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For the record, you can just pop open the switch and clean the carbon off the connections... I did this 2 years ago, and it is still running good:

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...heck=312331864
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:27 PM   #11
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Link isn't working for me. I would be so down with that though.
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:56 PM   #12
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its the switch... on a n body i replace the switch and it works every time
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02SSEi View Post
Link isn't working for me. I would be so down with that though.
Here you go:


Quote:
ORIGINAL: bigrig

For those whose fan starts to work intermittently on low speeds, Jerry Davis posted this on the GPML a while back:

Quote:
I have a '97 GT that I bought new, so I've had my car on the road longer
than most of those in this group. That being the case, one can reasonably
expect equipment failure to show up sooner on my GP than on newer models.

One interesting failure is something called the "fan ignition switch." That
switch is a thick cluster of heavy and lesser wires, about 1.5 feet long,
with robust termination blocks on each end. One end also has geared,
mechanical components. This part installs under the dash on the drivers
side and up into the steering column.

You need to replace it when your A/C fan begins to operate intermittently.
For example, if you are driving and the fan simply stops, then restarts
while on any speed setting 1-4 (not on speed setting five setting until some
weeks later ,) your switch is failing. The problem will gradually become
worse, with the outage taking longer to recover, until you achieve total
failure.

There are actualy two parts that can cause this problem, and the second part
is called the resistor pack. That part connects directly to the blower
housing under the dash on the passenger side, and is about 24 bucks new from
GM. My fully functional pack was slightly burned on the circuit board, so I
replaced it.

The fan ignition switch was easy to replace, but it is awkward to install.
You will need typical small hand tools, plus an 8-inch or longer socket
extension. a torx male socket (T11, I think) and two torx female sockets
(T11 and T10.) I didn't know that until I had my steering column torn down,
and had to drive around the city with a skeletal column, wires dangling and
tools in the floorboard. No one sells female torx wrenches that small, so
you will have to buy two small standard wrenches. (Your 1/8th inch drive
sockets are way too big to fit the space you will have to work with.)

Sears has a perfect solution. Buy the 5/32nd and 1/8th size wrenches on the
2.5 inch steel stems. They look like small screwdrivers with the socket
permanently mounted at the end of a thin, steel stem. You will need the
small stem because you won't be able to remove the cowl above the steering
column, and its in the way.

The physical key slot on the primary ingnition switch is too big for the
upper steering column cowl to slide over, so you will have to raise the
plastic cowl as far as possible to access the two very, very small torx
screws holding the fan switch in place. The cowl will be stressed, so be
careful.

Also, you will have to cut and splice two wires due to being unable to
remove the upper steering column cowl. There is some magic part snapped
into a slot on the top of the column that you will not be able to reach,
which will have to be left there. Cut the two wires coming off it and
splice them to the two matching wires coming off your new part. There is a
small, odd shaped white plastic box attached to one end the two wires.
Nothing comes out of the little box, and there are no metal contacts on the
surface of it. Apparently, there is something inside the box that sends
some kind of signal/magnetism/charge through its housing to a receiver in
the steering column. Or not. Who knows?

The wires are very plainly marked, they match the new ones and there are
only two. You can't screw it up unless you fail to insulate your splices.
If you don't unsulate them well, then you can expect some really fun
problems later, and maybe even some fireworks in your lap as you drive down
the highway, impressing your woman with your technical prowess

That job takes about 1.5 hours, and the part is 56 bucks from Grand. GM
wants 98 dollars for it, and a shop will charge you around 300 dollars to do
it.

The tip about the Sears tools is definitely a life saver. The ignition switch part number is 26068757.

Okay, here's full directions with pictures -

1) Remove the lower panel beneath the dash. You should know how to do it by now. [] 2 phillips head screws.

2) Take out the two Torx bolts (size 25) under the steering column:



Pull out the tilt lever:



Push the lower cover towards the dash and down to disengage the clips:



3) Here's where the Sears tools come into play.



Or small female torx bits, if you have those. There's two screws holding on the top cover, one left, one right:





4) Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Now comes the tricky part. There's a small hole above the ignition, circled here:



Turn the key to "START", and push a small hex wrench in the hole to release the latch. It's pretty hard to get to, I used needle-nose vice grips to hold the wrench:



So after the latch is pushed down, release the key to the "RUN" position, and the whole key receptacle can be pulled out. IMPORTANT: Keep the key in the cylinder until you have reinstalled it and turned to the OFF position.



5) Now to use the other Sears tool. There's two screws on the ignition switch, circled here:



Press with a screwdriver on the left of this white plastic piece to press the tab, so the white part can be rotated out:



You'll have to disconnect an electrical connector from the solenoid that keeps the key from being removed. I have removed that solenoid, so I don't have pics of it. There may be some tie wraps to cut, also. Now we're free from the steering column:



5) Undo this wire harness clip:



Use a 7mm socket to loosen this bolt and separate the electrical connectors:



Pry between the parts of the connector so the two outer parts can be pushed forward and separated:



6) Now to operate on the internals of the switch! Pry the top off, you'll see some springs:



Pry this metal ring off:



Pry off the next cover, you'll see this:



Take out the pieces, and inspect. Here's our enemy, carbon!



Use some fine grit sandpaper to clean the pads on the metal bits, and the contacts on the switch side.

7) Put everything back together, basically just a reversal of the previous steps. Put the coil spring and the white "cam" in the top cover so the piece of the spring that sticks up is at 12 o'clock. The tab on the cam should be at about 9 o'clock. Place these parts on top of the lower assembly. The piece of the spring that sticks forward will not be in the correct location, you have to push it around to its correct position at about 4 o'clock, while holding the upper and lower parts of the switch together. Fun! [X(]

8) Test it out, enjoy the air blowing on your face at a low speed. [] Congratulate yourself and partake of a frosty beverage.



Matt

1997 Bright White GT Sedan - Now with HUD!
9" K&N Cone w/CAI, 2.5" Custom Exhaust w/SuperTurbos, 12" Brakes, Eibach Springs, KYB Struts, F&R STB, Impala Rear Swaybar, Poly Bushings, 180* Stat, Crossover Wrap, No MAF Screen, 99 Coolant Bottle, Blazertech 3200's w/X-Pel, 70/80W Headlights, Fogs w/Brights, Tail Light Flash, 20% Sungard Tint, Chrome Badges - 15.64 @ 84.35

( i did change the image to img tags, but this is a direct quote otherwise)
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:57 AM   #14
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Thanks a lot. It looks like the ignition switch is a hell of a lot easier to get out of his car as it is in the dash and held in by two bolts.
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:22 PM   #15
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Wrong bitch. the dash has to get yanked it looks like this car. Looks like i have my evening pretty well booked at this point. Thank god he is throwing me some cash.
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