Epoxy in garage ?
- Thread starter Gav'sPurpleZ
- Start date
I have the Rust Oleum Tan Kit which we put down on top of brand new concrete and didn't use the speckle stuff.
It did not hold up well, post likely due to the fact it was new concrete and still had a lot of moisture in it. I don't know if the speckle stuff does anything for durability but it does help with traction, our floor is quite smooth with the coating so it gets slippery.
Install was easy because it was a new garage, I would put the speckles down if I dd it again.
It did not hold up well, post likely due to the fact it was new concrete and still had a lot of moisture in it. I don't know if the speckle stuff does anything for durability but it does help with traction, our floor is quite smooth with the coating so it gets slippery.
Install was easy because it was a new garage, I would put the speckles down if I dd it again.
Take a piece of clear plastic and tape a square foot piece on the garage floor. Wait a few days and if there is moisture underneath the plastic do not waste your time. With the humidity that we have here a lot of people have had problems with their floor coating peeling up. If anything look into getting a non-slip linoleum tile to lay in the garage. It will be a little more expensive but worth it in my book. Easier to install and way more durable.
Old roommate and I put down the rustoleum epoxy sheild kit in an old house. Turned out great, and still looked great excpet for one spot when we moved out a year later. You need to make sure the floor is super clean.
They make two kits, one is a water based epoxy, and the professional kit is solvent based. The professional kit you need to etch the floor with something like muriatic acid and water first. If I were to do it again, I would use the professional kit, I believe it covers 4-500 sq. ft and is like $90 for the kit.
They make two kits, one is a water based epoxy, and the professional kit is solvent based. The professional kit you need to etch the floor with something like muriatic acid and water first. If I were to do it again, I would use the professional kit, I believe it covers 4-500 sq. ft and is like $90 for the kit.
Yeah you could probably get a nice discount with your company's buying power vs. yours on some nice non-slip linoleum like this!
http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/product_details_toolbox_magnify.jsp?item_id=47411
Service to apply acid first then coat the garage is like $1500 for a 2 car garage
That money could be better spent...
BINGO!!
You can get a 4 post for like 1600ish..
Quickly found this:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Garage-Pro-8-000-p/xh-pro8000.htm
Quickly found this:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Garage-Pro-8-000-p/xh-pro8000.htm
This is right up my alley... I epoxied my 20' x 24' heated garage almost 2.5 years ago. The concrete floor was 10 years old at the time with fluid stains and some hairline cracks. I used the Rustoleum Professional kit (approx. 250 sq. ft. per gallon) in light gray (no sprinkles) along with the clear coat kit (including anti-skid additive).
I used muriatic (sp?) acid (can buy locally at HD, Lowes, etc.) along with a pressure washer on the concrete floor beforehand to etch it and it did wonders. I was able to get the majority of the fluid stains gone and it opened the pores as well. I waited 48 hours for it to dry out before I started with the first coat of light gray. It is somewhat of a bear to apply because it is concrete. I recommend using a dark color because even the small remaining fluid stains showed through on the light gray color. I would also recommend using the sprinkles because it will help to hide any chips and/or scuffs/stains from your cars, etc.
I waited 24 hours for the light gray to dry before I added the clear coat. The clear coat went on as smooth as butter and I only needed one gallon for the entire floor vs. the two that I thought I would need. I let the floor dry for 3 days before I stepped on it and began putting my tools, etc. back in it. I waited 7 days before driving the cars back on the floor. It was in the 60s when I did the work, so you could wait less if it is warmer outside.
2.5 years later and the floor has about 10 chips in it and some scuffs from where the tires rest, but it is holding up great overall. I do a lot of work in the garage and I wash my cars in the garage all year round too. Oil, water, etc. clean-up in a breeze. I will always have an epoxy floor from this point forward.
I used muriatic (sp?) acid (can buy locally at HD, Lowes, etc.) along with a pressure washer on the concrete floor beforehand to etch it and it did wonders. I was able to get the majority of the fluid stains gone and it opened the pores as well. I waited 48 hours for it to dry out before I started with the first coat of light gray. It is somewhat of a bear to apply because it is concrete. I recommend using a dark color because even the small remaining fluid stains showed through on the light gray color. I would also recommend using the sprinkles because it will help to hide any chips and/or scuffs/stains from your cars, etc.
I waited 24 hours for the light gray to dry before I added the clear coat. The clear coat went on as smooth as butter and I only needed one gallon for the entire floor vs. the two that I thought I would need. I let the floor dry for 3 days before I stepped on it and began putting my tools, etc. back in it. I waited 7 days before driving the cars back on the floor. It was in the 60s when I did the work, so you could wait less if it is warmer outside.
2.5 years later and the floor has about 10 chips in it and some scuffs from where the tires rest, but it is holding up great overall. I do a lot of work in the garage and I wash my cars in the garage all year round too. Oil, water, etc. clean-up in a breeze. I will always have an epoxy floor from this point forward.
Ask Sherwin Williams!
Q: What is the best paint to use on a garage floor?
A:It depends on what kind of finish you want. A clear heavy-duty, high-performance polyurethane will provide a durable, dust-free clear finish if the concrete has a uniform appearance. If the concrete's finish is not uniform, or if you want a colored finish on the floor, a two-part polyamide epoxy works best. Do not use latex or oil-based floor paint in a garage because they can lift when they come in contact with car or truck tires. For best results, allow the coating to cure at least 10 days before driving a vehicle on it.
•If you drive on the garage floor you want to beautify, Sherwin Williams recommends using its solvent-based two-part epoxy. It withstands grease and oil better than paint, and you can clean an epoxy covered floor with ease. After selecting your Sherwin Williams epoxy flooring product and before embarking on this flooring do-it-yourself project, remember that a sparkling outcome is related to preparation that can take days.
Moisture Test
•Tape a plastic bag or corner of tarp to your garage floor for a full day. If your garage is subject to a wet climate, two days is better. Lift the plastic and check for moisture. Moisture will disturb epoxy's ability to bond. Do not begin until the moisture problem is resolved and the floor is consistently dry.
Clean
•Scrape any hardened materials and debris away. Follow with sweeping. When the floor is smooth, wash it with concrete cleaner and degreaser, available at home improvement centers. Mix and use as directed. After the spots are removed, use a power scrubber to thoroughly scrub the floor surface. A walk-behind model works best. Wet vacuum the cleaning solution and retain for disposal. Read the product label to determine proper disposal procedures. Check disposal requirements through your local community environmental office.
Etch
•Before you etch the concrete floor with a muriatic acid and water solution, prepare your driveway by hosing it with water. Prepare a muriatic acid and water mixture per manufacturer's direction and power-scrub the floor with a clean brush attachment. Remember to add acid to water, never water to acid. Wear gloves and use a respirator and eye protection. Keep pets and children away. Afterward, flood the floor with water under pressure per the muriatic acid manufacturer guidelines. Repeat the process until the floor surface texture is similar to fine grit sandpaper. Squeegee pooled water away. Dry with a rag. Allow the open-door garage to dry overnight.
Patch
•Patch the fully dry floor, any holes or cracks as large as a quarter inch, with epoxy crack filler and let dry according to manufacturer instructions. Crack fillers are available at home improvement stores.
Practice Safety
•With your Sherwin Williams epoxy flooring product at hand, read the instructions thoroughly. Apply the product like a pro to get long lasting, professional looking results. Remember that before applying epoxy, you should turn off gas to any garage appliances. Ventilate the garage area, keep people distant from fumes, wear eye protection, wear gloves and wear a well-fitted respirator
Q: What is the best paint to use on a garage floor?
A:It depends on what kind of finish you want. A clear heavy-duty, high-performance polyurethane will provide a durable, dust-free clear finish if the concrete has a uniform appearance. If the concrete's finish is not uniform, or if you want a colored finish on the floor, a two-part polyamide epoxy works best. Do not use latex or oil-based floor paint in a garage because they can lift when they come in contact with car or truck tires. For best results, allow the coating to cure at least 10 days before driving a vehicle on it.
•If you drive on the garage floor you want to beautify, Sherwin Williams recommends using its solvent-based two-part epoxy. It withstands grease and oil better than paint, and you can clean an epoxy covered floor with ease. After selecting your Sherwin Williams epoxy flooring product and before embarking on this flooring do-it-yourself project, remember that a sparkling outcome is related to preparation that can take days.
Moisture Test
•Tape a plastic bag or corner of tarp to your garage floor for a full day. If your garage is subject to a wet climate, two days is better. Lift the plastic and check for moisture. Moisture will disturb epoxy's ability to bond. Do not begin until the moisture problem is resolved and the floor is consistently dry.
Clean
•Scrape any hardened materials and debris away. Follow with sweeping. When the floor is smooth, wash it with concrete cleaner and degreaser, available at home improvement centers. Mix and use as directed. After the spots are removed, use a power scrubber to thoroughly scrub the floor surface. A walk-behind model works best. Wet vacuum the cleaning solution and retain for disposal. Read the product label to determine proper disposal procedures. Check disposal requirements through your local community environmental office.
Etch
•Before you etch the concrete floor with a muriatic acid and water solution, prepare your driveway by hosing it with water. Prepare a muriatic acid and water mixture per manufacturer's direction and power-scrub the floor with a clean brush attachment. Remember to add acid to water, never water to acid. Wear gloves and use a respirator and eye protection. Keep pets and children away. Afterward, flood the floor with water under pressure per the muriatic acid manufacturer guidelines. Repeat the process until the floor surface texture is similar to fine grit sandpaper. Squeegee pooled water away. Dry with a rag. Allow the open-door garage to dry overnight.
Patch
•Patch the fully dry floor, any holes or cracks as large as a quarter inch, with epoxy crack filler and let dry according to manufacturer instructions. Crack fillers are available at home improvement stores.
Practice Safety
•With your Sherwin Williams epoxy flooring product at hand, read the instructions thoroughly. Apply the product like a pro to get long lasting, professional looking results. Remember that before applying epoxy, you should turn off gas to any garage appliances. Ventilate the garage area, keep people distant from fumes, wear eye protection, wear gloves and wear a well-fitted respirator
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