Why do I only buy cars that chuck wheel bearings?

[M@]

So, I've been relatively sure that my civic's had one or both rear wheel bearings bad since...well, shortly after I got it. I've sort of just been dealing with the noise, since it didn't adversely affect tire wear, but it's been getting obnoxiously loud.

Did some digging, and Honduh actually put out a recall on the rear wheel bearings....boom! Free fix! Dealers were supposed to mark underhood if the recall work had been performed, no marks so I figure it's never gotten done.

Took it to the stealership today hoping to get it done for free, without having to wrench on the thing. They look up the VIN in the computer, and the fix has already been done before I bought it used. FML. Apparently the recall is for a bad o-ring on the wheel speed/ABS sensor which lets salt spray into the bearing, leading to failures. If the bearing's not bad when they do the recall work, they just replace the o-ring, and send you packing, which is what I assume they did.

Luckily the bearing assembly was only 70 bucks from Rockauto for a Timken unit...which I assume should last awhile, as they make good stuff generally. Nothing like the 200 bucks I remember the Regal bearings costing, but still blows.

Anyone else cursed with one part failing on multiple different cars?

Click to read more...

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

yeah, fucking points





but thats just some sandpaper and a matchbook to fix it

 

[smug]

Get ready for all the odd ball sized nuts and bolts such as 12mm, 14mm, 16mm, ect.
I have not really had one part keep going bad on all my cars but I think I could have built an entire Grand Prix with all the parts I have changed over the years.

 

[Outlaw]

Spedometers that dont work... I've owned four cars where the speedometer has gone out about a month after me buying it.

 

[AlmightyBirdman]

Power steering pumps on gp's. Went through 3 in probably less than 2 months. I didn't really have a lot of knowledge on cars at this point, so the shop would put it in, and it would whine whine whine almost instantly after starting to drive it. Didn't abuse the car or anything. Good thing after the first one they put in the shop replaced it all the other times for free.

 

[hellraiser319]

I learned that bad alignment = fried wheel bearings on the cavi... second set of fronts I put on in 20kmi... well one side at least, the other was because of a winter incident, damn curb

Parents' van...99 e-150, eats front brake pads, 10k max before they need to be changed, 15k with ceramics...

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

I learned that bad alignment = fried wheel bearings on the cavi... second set of fronts I put on in 20kmi... well one side at least, the other was because of a winter incident, damn curb

Parents' van...99 e-150, eats front brake pads, 10k max before they need to be changed, 15k with ceramics...

ive seen that issue before on the e1/2/350 vans/trucks, replacing the self adjusting mechanism in the rear and making sure the shoes are adjusted properly helps the fronts last longer, i used to bend down the load sensing proportioning valve as well to increase brake bias towards the rear

 

[M@]

g
zus
christ

Just got done replacing the bearing, and I can't believe just how bad the thing was. Took it for a quick spin, and the difference in noise is unbelievable.

Also, kudos to Honda for their rear rotor/hub design. The brake rotor is actually bolted to the hub/bearing with a countersunk PHILLIPS screw. Of course it was rusted solid, and of course it stripped immediately. Had to take them off together and drill the screws out. Needless to say, no screws were used when I put it back together.

Oh well, all in all, pretty simple job, and now my wheel shouldn't fall off.

 

[smug]

g
zus
christ

Just got done replacing the bearing, and I can't believe just how bad the thing was. Took it for a quick spin, and the difference in noise is unbelievable.

Also, kudos to Honda for their rear rotor/hub design. The brake rotor is actually bolted to the hub/bearing with a countersunk PHILLIPS screw. Of course it was rusted solid, and of course it stripped immediately. Had to take them off together and drill the screws out. Needless to say, no screws were used when I put it back together.

Oh well, all in all, pretty simple job, and now my wheel shouldn't fall off.

I have dont a lot of those Hondas and the srew is a mother fucker. I have to use my impact driver in them to get it to break loose. Not only are they soft metal, rusty, tight, they are also have locktite on them

 

[M@]

I have dont a lot of those Hondas and the srew is a mother fucker. I have to use my impact driver in them to get it to break loose. Not only are they soft metal, rusty, tight, they are also have locktite on them

I hit the things with penetrating oil, but gave up after minimal trying. I could see the screws were going to strip out, possible exception being if I hit them with the butane torch...but that thing's a pansy and probably would have done next to nothing.

I figure every other vehicle I've ever messed with the brakes on had no screws holding the rotor to the hub, there's really no need. Hopefully I'm not proven wrong down the road on that.

 

[smug]

I hit the things with penetrating oil, but gave up after minimal trying. I could see the screws were going to strip out, possible exception being if I hit them with the butane torch...but that thing's a pansy and probably would have done next to nothing.

I figure every other vehicle I've ever messed with the brakes on had no screws holding the rotor to the hub, there's really no need. Hopefully I'm not proven wrong down the road on that.

I think you will be fine. The only reason I see a need for a screw like that is to hold the rotor right aginst the hub while and brakes are being installed so the rotor is not moving around like a floppy cock.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

your correct its only there for faster assembly line, i havent even fucked with trying to remove em in years the amount of time you can waste with an impact driver.... i just center punch the philips and hit em with a 5/16ths drill and replace the rotor...i dont even grind down the nubs lol

for holding rotors in place for brake jobs i use an old bronze crankshaft pilot bushing and a lug nut...gm's i just install a lugnut backwards temporarily

so now ya can give the regal some luvin haha