School me on junkyard LS motors

[cap42]

First off let me claim my ignorance on LS based engines so any insight or advice is welcome. Secondly I am just interested in knowing what to look for so I can start budgeting what this will run me total.

This is for my 71 Nova POS....Lets just say I don't trust this motor/trans and on top of that every seal on the car is leaking to the point all my drip pans are full and nothing registers on the dipsticks. It is a 350 stroked out to 383 in front of a 700r4. I know if I keep the car carb'd I may need to fix the seals but I believe this is the same trans as the 4l60e just electronic (common to LS engines?)

So I am debating dropping in a LS series motor and potentially a trans. I know it's a somewhat common swap in these cars and I already know some of the requirements such as motor mounts, headers and fuel tank if I keep the LS motor FI (debating keeping it carb'd for cost and simplicity)

*Disclaimer* I am a cheap ass and want to keep this as cost effective as possible. I have seen examples of engine/trans/ecu and pedals from wrecked silverado's with 60 to 100k miles for around $1200-$1500 done as budget builds on Steve's Nova Site. This is kinda what I am looking for to get started. I have yet to find a donor vehicle like mentioned in this paragraph....

My problem is not knowing what to search for as the best platform to use, there are a few generation LS motors and different configurations and of course size. Everyone seems to have different opinions on what is the best setup to choose. 4.8 truck engines seem to be the most common budget build setup or if going turbo as I see these guys winding the engine out in the rpm's. Some guys like the LS1's for weight savings or the 6.0's just because the no replacement for displacement mentality. I'm not looking for a race car, just something that has some decent power but most importantly will be low cost and reliable.

My short term goal would be to find a decent mileage running engine and or trans and just drop it in. Once the car is mostly complete I may be looking to add a bit of oomph so the end goal is something that can do 400-450rwhp/rwtq NA (cam/heads/intake). Not sure if this information is needed or if it can change the recommendations but I put it in here just in case.

I will be sourcing this via craigslist and local junk yards etc so any insight what to look for and what would be the best donor vehicle would be appreciated!

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[Mook]

[MENTION=3559]School Boy[/MENTION], he loves junk LS motors.

 

[Primalzer]

Iron block series will be the cheapest...but obviously the heaviest...you can find some "rarer" but cheaper 5.3 aluminum block truck engines out of some Trailerblazers, but have been told they are hard to find. I've been told that the 4L60's won't hold up to much more than stock LQ4 power in a heavier vehicle...but I'll yield to someone with more knowledge on that one. The 4L80 is bigger, but beefier and will hold up to more power. I think you should determine what your ultimate goals should be...4.8's and 5.3's mated to 4L60's are pretty common, and even LQ4's are pretty common as well, but majority are iron block.

 

[OffshoreDrilling]

find a 5.3, cheap heads and a cam. done.

 

[cap42]

Iron block series will be the cheapest...but obviously the heaviest...you can find some "rarer" but cheaper 5.3 aluminum block truck engines out of some Trailerblazers, but have been told they are hard to find. I've been told that the 4L60's won't hold up to much more than stock LQ4 power in a heavier vehicle...but I'll yield to someone with more knowledge on that one. The 4L80 is bigger, but beefier and will hold up to more power. I think you should determine what your ultimate goals should be...4.8's and 5.3's mated to 4L60's are pretty common, and even LQ4's are pretty common as well, but majority are iron block.

I am ok with an Iron block, both because I am not looking to shed as many pounds as possible (nova should be around 3200 pds) and of course cost.

LQ4's are the truck/van iron 6.0's right?

*edit* I don't mind the idea of the 4L80's size as I can cut the shit out of the transmission tunnel. I am more woried about having to deal with the electronics. If I go fuel injected then it makes no difference. If I stay carb'd I'd hate to have to run a electronic controller just for the trans.

 

[1quick]

you going to sell the 383? im looking for a sbc to rebuild for my boat

 

[cap42]

you going to sell the 383? im looking for a sbc to rebuild for my boat

if I go this route yes it would be up for sale. Just so you know I am no hurry at the moment I still have at least a year of metal work and body work before I need the car running. The motor could be for sale next month or next year.

 

[Primalzer]

I am ok with an Iron block, both because I am not looking to shed as many pounds as possible (nova should be around 3200 pds) and of course cost.

LQ4's are the truck/van iron 6.0's right?

*edit* I don't mind the idea of the 4L80's size as I can cut the shit out of the transmission tunnel. I am more woried about having to deal with the electronics. If I go fuel injected then it makes no difference. If I stay carb'd I'd hate to have to run a electronic controller just for the trans.

If you keep the 4L60/80, but go carb'd, you'll need a standalone controller for the trans. I'm sure you can find them. Might be better off finding an older non-electronic trans, if you don't want to fuck with the electronics. I know you want to go the cheap route, but there are a ton of new controllers and computers that are made for just such applications...but they're $$$

 

[cap42]

So it may help to clarify, I don't necessarily have an issue with going fuel injected and running a ecu for the engine/trans. It's more the added cost of tuning, wire harness and the fuel tank. The stock tank has been scrapped a long time ago as it was rusted and had holes in it. A replacement fuel tank is shy of $300. A replacement fuel tank for fuel injection is around $1300, and I absolutely do not want a fuel cell in the trunk.

right there adds $1000 and I haven't even gotten into all the other misc needs.

If budget wasn't a concern I'd be more than happy to have the ability to tune the car and diagnose problems with a laptop/handheld but unfortunately my wife doesn't let me go nutz on my vehicle hobbies.

 

[cap42]

find a 5.3, cheap heads and a cam. done.

any idea of which vehicle would be best source to look for? Also is any generation 5.3 better than others?

 

[Primalzer]

So it may help to clarify, I don't necessarily have an issue with going fuel injected and running a ecu for the engine/trans. It's more the added cost of tuning, wire harness and the fuel tank. The stock tank has been scrapped a long time ago as it was rusted and had holes in it. A replacement fuel tank is shy of $300. A replacement fuel tank for fuel injection is around $1300, and I absolutely do not want a fuel cell in the trunk.

right there adds $1000 and I haven't even gotten into all the other misc needs.

If budget wasn't a concern I'd be more than happy to have the ability to tune the car and diagnose problems with a laptop/handheld but unfortunately my wife doesn't let me go nutz on my vehicle hobbies.

Find a donor vehicle, wrecked van, truck, etc. It'll have all the electronics, ECU, sensors, etc that you'll need, plus you can part out the other good parts you don't need an make some extra money towards the build. I linked a guy who did just that...your results I'm sure will vary, but it's an interesting and possibly good way of going about it.

Power for Pennies: How To Score a 500HP LS Engine for FREE

 

[Nate]

Cap just buy my built aluminum 6.0 and Rossler 4180e lol.

Yard motor: 6.0 iron. Personally I would re bearing the entire motor. Cam bearings included. Add a cam. Put some trunions in the rockers. New valve seals for the heads-any casting- and port...you'll make big power.

 

[cap42]

Cap just buy my built aluminum 6.0 and Rossler 4180e lol.

Yard motor: 6.0 iron. Personally I would re bearing the entire motor. Cam bearings included. Add a cam. Put some trunions in the rockers. New valve seals for the heads-any casting- and port...you'll make big power.

Sounds tempting Nate but I'm sure I'd be in over my head in short time.

 

[cap42]

Find a donor vehicle, wrecked van, truck, etc. It'll have all the electronics, ECU, sensors, etc that you'll need, plus you can part out the other good parts you don't need an make some extra money towards the build. I linked a guy who did just that...your results I'm sure will vary, but it's an interesting and possibly good way of going about it.



Power for Pennies: How To Score a 500HP LS Engine for FREE

Aside from having to strip a truck/van in my driveway this actually looks promising. Going to expand my search to include totaled donor vehicles.

Thanks

 

[School Boy]

With a 5.3 400rwhp will be very difficult to see n/a. But they can be found for very cheap. I found mine complete, intake to oil pan for $400. I have stock heads on mine but i made around 340rwhp cam only. Not a ton of power but very reliable and I spray it constantly. I have put probably 10-12 mother bottles through it (each mother bottle hold 65lbs of nitrous) and it still runs like new. No smoke, no ticks, no material in the oil between oil changes.

 

[cap42]

With a 5.3 400rwhp will be very difficult to see n/a. But they can be found for very cheap. I found mine complete, intake to oil pan for $400. I have stock heads on mine but i made around 340rwhp cam only. Not a ton of power but very reliable and I spray it constantly. I have put probably 10-12 mother bottles through it (each mother bottle hold 65lbs of nitrous) and it still runs like new. No smoke, no ticks, no material in the oil between oil changes.

What heads and intake were you running?
*edit*
I should clarify, what casting heads and was it a truck intake?

 

[bnr32]

5.3 and 2wd trans. get the harness done if you want it nice and save trouble of wiring. spectra efi tank drop it and do a corvette regulator setup, that way its easy to adapt to stock fuel lines, dirty dingo engine mounts. with a truck motor you may run into issues with the hood clearing the intake and if you have power steering the pump will hit the steering box. headers are a bit easier to get for a 68+ car. use your stock crossmember and drill new holes and move it back. get a 4" Aluminum drive shaft made. radiator and fans you can go cheap and use a take out radiator and do an electric fan or go nice and electric fans and nice aluminum radiator.

almost finished helping my neighbor with his 65 Chevelle, has an ls2 and trans.

 

[School Boy]

What heads and intake were you running?
*edit*
I should clarify, what casting heads and was it a truck intake?

Im running the stock 862 heads and a vic jr. intake.

 

[Smokinhot]

Yea, don't expect power N/A from a 4.8/5.3. But damn are they reliable with a bottle or boost.

I'm putting down 397/403 in lq4 iron block 6.0. That's through almost a full size converter 3200 stall/4l80e and 4.56 gears. Not the biggest cam either. This all in my 1500 silverado

 

[cap42]

These lq4's have really got me thinking :naughty:

 

[SleeperLS]

Are the lq4 motors good with handling boost?

 

[Smokinhot]

Are the lq4 motors good with handling boost?

[MENTION=1774]willizm[/MENTION] has an lq4. I know stock everything with bolt on charger 6-8psi isn't bad. I believe the 05+ blocks are stronger and could handle more.

 

[SleeperLS]

Fair enough. His car isn't slow either.

 

[willizm]

[MENTION=1774]willizm[/MENTION] has an lq4. I know stock everything with bolt on charger 6-8psi isn't bad. I believe the 05+ blocks are stronger and could handle more.

Actually I have an lq4 as a back up but the motor that's in my car has always been an ls1 with better rods/Pistons

Try to find an 04-06 lq4. It's got the beefier stock rods and Pistons in it yet it's still genIII

 

[Smokinhot]

Actually I have an lq4 as a back up but the motor that's in my car has always been an ls1 with better rods/Pistons

Try to find an 04-06 lq4. It's got the beefier stock rods and Pistons in it yet it's still genIII

My bad, I thought it was.