Who is our new remote start guy???

Gamble

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May 23, 2015
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Please let me know if we find a GOOD installer.. One that doesn't just strip wire, twist it together, than black tape it... I am so fucking sickened how my systems were installed.

The guy I used does that. Did it on my last 5 cars. He says solder creates a hard spot and can crack. I laughed, but never had too many issues with his installs.
I hate when people use the virtual tach instead of wiring it up.
 

DEEZUZ

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Nov 20, 2008
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The guy I used does that. Did it on my last 5 cars. He says solder creates a hard spot and can crack. I laughed, but never had too many issues with his installs.
I hate when people use the virtual tach instead of wiring it up.

I've never noticed anything being soldered. The way it should be done is with 3 in 1 crimps. Crimp, solder, and heatshrink all in one.

All I ever see done is twisted wires that are half ass black taped
 

FESTER665

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Apr 13, 2008
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Please let me know if we find a GOOD installer.. One that doesn't just strip wire, twist it together, than black tape it... I am so fucking sickened how my systems were installed.

I just tore my dash out of my Cobra so I can get ready to run the new EFI wiring harness behind the dash when it comes in and it made me wanna puke when I saw the alarm wired in just like this.

We make wire harnesses for the transit industry here at work, and every singe cable for trains and buses has us soldering the connectors after crimping. One of their people would have a stroke if we wired shit even close to the way I found my alarm.

I'm currently debating having a factory Ford one installed in the new Escape, or going with a Viper model someplace. I figured the factory one would probably wire in better, but I'm now thinking the techs at the dealership will probably just hack it up as much as some fly by night place..
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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the problem with solder is that it can be done incorrectly and result in weakness at the HAZ.

as long as its not in a stressed area (flexing alot) and properly insulated/strain relieved its quite durable....but alot of modern tech in relation to this suggest that even with the voltage drop, a mechanical crimp type connection is far more durable/reliable in high vibration environments
 

JDHedman

" The Remote Start Guy "
Jun 5, 2009
6,215
0
Algonquin
The guy I used does that. Did it on my last 5 cars. He says solder creates a hard spot and can crack. I laughed, but never had too many issues with his installs.
I hate when people use the virtual tach instead of wiring it up.

I've never noticed anything being soldered. The way it should be done is with 3 in 1 crimps. Crimp, solder, and heatshrink all in one.

All I ever see done is twisted wires that are half ass black taped



Good luck finding someone that does 3 in 1. I have met thousands of installers from many company's and met most of the major vendors and never heard of anyone using a 3 in 1.

Most installers now days unfortunately do just strip, wrap and tape due to poor training or just being lazy. The proper way and now industry standard is to use a military splice with super plus 33 inside for any splices and solder and tape for any clean cuts or any connection outside of the car. With clean cuts in the shop most installers will heatshrink also.

As far as tach now days there are very few cars where you would actually "need" to run the tach with a quality remote start. Between cars that are remote start ready, anti-grind starters you don't even need virtual tach or voltage sensing. Now there are some cars that just flat out need a tach ran but most of the time the only reason I ever had to run tach was on cars that had poor maintenance and or mechanical issues. The new quality remote starts virtual tach work great when programed properly. But once again that rarely happens.

Now if you want it done a specific way. Ask your installer to do it that way. Most I know would have no issue doing so as long as your not asking them to do it in a way th st would not work well like spreading peanut butter on all wires before hand..or some strange shit somebody read on the Internet where all the experts live. That being said you may expect to pay I little more as it may take longer.

Unfortunately I do not have any good recommendations on installers for side jobs at the moment but I will keep my ears open.... and who know I may even come out of retirement
 

DEEZUZ

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James I'm sure you are well aware of the 3 in one crimps I'm talking about?

They are the cats ass. They are about $1/ea for 14-16 gauge crimps.. But there is no second guessing the connection strength. If I ever get around to it on the dooty I want to redo all the hack work with these crimps.
 

syP

Not Banned
May 24, 2007
30,096
357
Downers Grove, Illinois
Good luck finding someone that does 3 in 1. I have met thousands of installers from many company's and met most of the major vendors and never heard of anyone using a 3 in 1.

Most installers now days unfortunately do just strip, wrap and tape due to poor training or just being lazy. The proper way and now industry standard is to use a military splice with super plus 33 inside for any splices and solder and tape for any clean cuts or any connection outside of the car. With clean cuts in the shop most installers will heatshrink also.

As far as tach now days there are very few cars where you would actually "need" to run the tach with a quality remote start. Between cars that are remote start ready, anti-grind starters you don't even need virtual tach or voltage sensing. Now there are some cars that just flat out need a tach ran but most of the time the only reason I ever had to run tach was on cars that had poor maintenance and or mechanical issues. The new quality remote starts virtual tach work great when programed properly. But once again that rarely happens.

Now if you want it done a specific way. Ask your installer to do it that way. Most I know would have no issue doing so as long as your not asking them to do it in a way th st would not work well like spreading peanut butter on all wires before hand..or some strange shit somebody read on the Internet where all the experts live. That being said you may expect to pay I little more as it may take longer.

Unfortunately I do not have any good recommendations on installers for side jobs at the moment but I will keep my ears open.... and who know I may even come out of retirement

Please?? :). Got three of my own ready for ya
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Jun 16, 2007
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James I'm sure you are well aware of the 3 in one crimps I'm talking about?

They are the cats ass. They are about $1/ea for 14-16 gauge crimps.. But there is no second guessing the connection strength. If I ever get around to it on the dooty I want to redo all the hack work with these crimps.

oh i know em, problem is they dont work well with slightly oxidized copper strands which are found on many oem cars with any miles. sure interior wires stay cleaner for longer but even they have a visible layer of dark oxide.
perforation of the sheath is also quite common.
ive seen those things demolished on semi trailer wiring jobs....it looks great till you cut it apart and nothing but green mush comes out...

prep of sanding and scraping the strands is additional work hardening of the copper.

better to use a gel seal shrink tube or twp over and do it the vintage way with more strain relief on either end from a second larger shrink tube in situations where it'd be smart to do so

a visual inspection is easier without shrink wrap in the way is quite easy before you "seal it and forget it"

for the poors a can of liquid electrical tape and std shrink tube is a good substitute...rtv even.

/redneck ramblings
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Jun 16, 2007
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I don't understand what's to fail. Are you guys using the correct crimping tool? There are crimps for bare and crimps for sheathed. Also the 3 in 1 has glue on the inside that melts out of the ends.

the problem is that moisture and the salts are already wicked into the copper strands to several inches past the ends if not a foot or more. the gell just seals the devils inside...

even the insulated tools can perforate

then the mater of the low temp solder not bonding to the strands properly due to oxidation and lack of flux's cleaning power....
 

SleeperLS

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Oct 19, 2008
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I don't understand what's to fail. Are you guys using the correct crimping tool? There are crimps for bare and crimps for sheathed. Also the 3 in 1 has glue on the inside that melts out of the ends.

I don't know what tool the dude used. It is possible he didn't use them correctly. When I opened up the crimp, the wires were corroded enough and were no longer having proper contact causing intermittent signal issues. I didn't even think the crimps would fail and chased the issue down over an entire day until that was the last possible cause. Huge cluster fuck. As soon as I eliminated them and just soldered wires, problem solved and never came back.
 

DEEZUZ

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Ti28

Cupcake
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The worst is these guys. I fucking hate them!

60097.jpg
 

1quick

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Jan 29, 2008
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James I'm sure you are well aware of the 3 in one crimps I'm talking about?

They are the cats ass. They are about $1/ea for 14-16 gauge crimps.. But there is no second guessing the connection strength. If I ever get around to it on the dooty I want to redo all the hack work with these crimps.

these? this is what I use unless im in a pinch then i just use crimp connectors with heat shrink ends

 
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