T/A Body side molding. Yay or Nay

[Lead Pipe]

So Breze's post on his C5Z molding has me even more torn on the molding on my T/A. I want to keep the Trans Am badge but am undecided on the molding. I like it but mine are faded and starting to yellow. Do I get them repainted or ditch them entirely? Should I keep the T/A badge or just run a decal?

Molding and badge

No molding with badge

No molding or badge

No molding with T/A decal

Click to read more...

 

[Breze84]

Yours don't stand out as much like the C5Z, But now seeing pics without I think you know my answer lol... Take em off and keep the badges, or just the Trans Am badge is what I ment... It's just a cleaner look

 

[99PONTIACGP]

It doesn't really make a difference with or without them.

 

[Yaj Yak]

are there holes behind them like gtp's have? or no

 

[Lead Pipe]

Nope, they peel off and that's it. I'm leaning toward pulling them off and buying decals.

 

[Formula_LS1]

Looks cleaner without them IMO. I'm probably going to take mine off. I'm pretty sure they're just glued on (no holes behind them)

 

[Yaj Yak]

Nope, they peel off and that's it. I'm leaning toward pulling them off and buying decals.

gotchya.

gtp's have holes behind em. so they have to be filled somehow.

 

[Breze84]

Just soak them with goo gone or WD40 for 5 mins, then hit them again for another 5 mins. Take some wax based dental floss and work a corner about 4 inches in then peel that corner back lightly and fold a piece of paper several times to create a wedge and slip it in to create a void to work with. Then take a Zip tie and slip it around the molding like a loop, Use that to hold on to and pull back on. You can then take a blow dryer and heat up the length of the molding and pull back on the Zip tie loop to pop it off. If it ends up still giving you a tough time just continue to cut the adhesive with the floss. Go slow and easy, The more you heat it up the less residue you will potentially leave behind. DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN... You will heat up the paint to the point that it will become soft and you can leave impressions in the clear... After they are off remove the rest of the adhesive with goo gone / WD40 and knead the adhesive with your finger into a ball. Go back and wipe everything down, Claybar and polish

 

[Outlaw]

I like the no molding with badge or decal.

 

[Mook]

I cant really tell the difference

 

[boostedguy05]

i can't tell either.

maybe find pictures of just the doors with/ without

 

[Shibby50]

I went through this last year after seeing a few and decided it wasn't worth it.

 

[Bru]

I had no idea this was even a thing on my car.

 

[Breze84]

This looks clean as hell...

[/QUOTE]

 

[Lead Pipe]

That's what I'm thinking except I want the wheel set up from #3.

 

[Breze84]

That's what I'm thinking except I want the wheel set up from #3.

Those look good, But I like RT-S's for some reason

 

[Lead Pipe]

Everyone has RTS' though. I also think the RTS 17" front looks a little weird. I'd love to rock an alumastar front but that's not smart for street driving.

 

[School Boy]

Throw molding in garbage.

 

[Breze84]

Everyone has RTS' though. I also think the RTS 17" front looks a little weird. I'd love to rock an alumastar front but that's not smart for street driving.

Aren't those made in china or some shit though???

 

[Lead Pipe]

God no, they are made by weld. Expensive as hell but super light. You're thinking of those shitty racestars everyone buys and think they got a deal.

 

[Stink Star]

With no molding and no T/A logo it kinda makes it look like a base firebird so that's a no go. I like the molding removed with the T/A logo

 

[Breze84]

God no, they are made by weld. Expensive as hell but super light. You're thinking of those shitty racestars everyone buys and think they got a deal.

Yea that's right. I am thinking of Race Stars....