Mach1/Cobra Brake Conversion on a Marauder

Zack

4 Doors 4 Life
Mar 21, 2004
6,297
20
NW Indiana
Ive been wanting to do this for about 5 years now. I really dont know why I didnt, but today was the day.
First off, thanks Izzy for the deal on the brakes. :clap: :dancenana:

Alright, here we go.....
I first want to express my dis-satisfaction with aftermarket brakes. Ive had bad luck with Baer's and Wildwoods. Im pretty sure Im not doing anything wrong, just bad parts. On top of that I think OEM parts far outweigh aftermarket parts in quality, and mostly the extensive R&D that goes into them.
This is on my Blue Marauder, which I had Wildwoods on. At least they stopped pretty good, but the rotors just started to warp. On top of that I am limited to Wildwood pads and the god awful dust that comes with them. ..and also the fact the pad dust clogs up the slots making them useless.
Some observations right of the bat:
A Mach1 rotor (which is far superior to a Wildwood rotor) is a direct bolt on*.
Why they even supplied a 2 piece rotor with less veins is beyond me.
*The Hub ID on a Wildwood rotor is 2.82, Mach hub id is 2.80. Slight enlargement IS necessary, took 3 minutes with a die grinder. Everything else is the same.
BrakeConversion001.jpg

BrakeConversion005.jpg


Now the hard part, adapting the Mach bracket to the Marauder Spindle. My intention was to make an adapter bracket so I could offer it to the Marauder community, but thats just not possible with the dimensions I had to work with. I tore my hair out for hours but finally caved and made a trip to Tractor supply for ideas....and found one. :D
The following pics will explain:
BrakeConversion006.jpg

BrakeConversion007.jpg

BrakeConversion008.jpg

BrakeConversion015.jpg

BrakeConversion016.jpg

BrakeConversion017.jpg


What you see in the vice is a threaded rod coupler! When cut in half the length is spot-on. I then made the cuts to the braket and welded them in. Im not even gonna show you the welds...crude but good. :rolleyes: Now keep in mind It took me a while to figure out exactly where to cut the brackets, but my measure twice cut once method proved successful.

From here on out it was cake. Besides picking up the wrong length bolts, everything fits quite nicely. There is no longer a need for the 1/8" spacer for the Wildwood kit, and fitment of the donut spare is now not even close to the rotor.
BrakeConversion009.jpg

BrakeConversion011.jpg

BrakeConversion013.jpg

BrakeConversion014.jpg


Mind you Im not done yet, havent even touched the passenger side (tomorrow :)) Bottom line is this, Im in this about $230 so far and I just need to find the proper Stainless Steel brake lines for the new calipers.
So this is quite literally 1000 dollars cheaper that aftermarket brakes, readily available used on any Stang forum, and Im not limited to the aftermarket pads, rotors and the insane prices that come with it.

Ill post bak when I do some road testing, but Im quite positive I already know the results. :biggthump

BTW Hi to all the Marauder guys who stop in to visit this thread. :wavey:
 

nytebyte

Not Politically Correct
Mar 2, 2004
13,695
21,204
This is very interesting.
I almost bought a set of Wilwood's for the Cobra, but ended up getting the Brembo's instead. It looks like the Wilwood's have the same swept area as the stock Cobra brakes, at least width-wise. The Brembo's have noticeably more.

That's one hell of a fabrication job and looks very nice. Let us know how they feel compared to the Wilwood's.
 

Zack

4 Doors 4 Life
Mar 21, 2004
6,297
20
NW Indiana
Did you weld the cut-in-half pieces of coupling to the caliper bracket that was modified?

Yes I did!

Im confident my welds will hold just fine.

If ever I was to do this for someone else, I would undoubtedly take it to a professional welder. I dont like screwing with other peoples lives.

(and then there is everyone who will say Im endangering others lives if my welds fail.) ...Ive worked on cars long enough and done enough 'backyard' welding to be confident my welds will hold.

Ill have a pic posted of a modded bracket shortly.
 

CREJoe

Chassis Builder
Jun 15, 2007
96
0
Yes I did!

Im confident my welds will hold just fine.

If ever I was to do this for someone else, I would undoubtedly take it to a professional welder. I dont like screwing with other peoples lives.

(and then there is everyone who will say Im endangering others lives if my welds fail.) ...Ive worked on cars long enough and done enough 'backyard' welding to be confident my welds will hold.

Ill have a pic posted of a modded bracket shortly.

My post wasn't intended as a shot, and I wasn't asking if you welded them personally so I wasn't questioning your welding...I had no intention to offend you or your work. I was just wondering why you used a plated, lower strength coupling instead of a non-plated, stronger alternative. The reason I asked is because the torque requirement on the anchor bolts is about 75 ft-lbs. and I'm not sure a coupling like that would be up to the task. Two other questions though. How did you keep the hub concentric. I mean, .020" is a lot of material to remove by hand with a die grinder instead of a mill or other more precise method, and still keep the rotor turning true. Also, how did you maintain the parallelism of the caliper piston to the rotor? If it works and doesn't cause the pad to wear unevenly, it looks like you may have come up with a legit, low-cost brake upgrade. Sorry if my original post was misunderstood.

Joe
 

Zack

4 Doors 4 Life
Mar 21, 2004
6,297
20
NW Indiana
My post wasn't intended as a shot, and I wasn't asking if you welded them personally so I wasn't questioning your welding...I had no intention to offend you or your work. I was just wondering why you used a plated, lower strength coupling instead of a non-plated, stronger alternative. The reason I asked is because the torque requirement on the anchor bolts is about 75 ft-lbs. and I'm not sure a coupling like that would be up to the task. Two other questions though. How did you keep the hub concentric. I mean, .020" is a lot of material to remove by hand with a die grinder instead of a mill or other more precise method, and still keep the rotor turning true. Also, how did you maintain the parallelism of the caliper piston to the rotor? If it works and doesn't cause the pad to wear unevenly, it looks like you may have come up with a legit, low-cost brake upgrade. Sorry if my original post was misunderstood.

Joe

Oh none taken, no worries.

First off, I stated the Marauder hub measures 2.82, and the mustang rotor was 2.80. I only opened it .002".
As for maintaining parallelism, the mustang bracket was almost a direct bolt on. It made so much surface contact to the spindle I just clamped it to the spindle and shot some primer into the spindle hole, which in turn told me where I needed to make my cuts in the bracket for the new threaded coupler.
After making the mods to the bracket, I then bolted the coupler to the spindle, set the bracket over the couplers, clamped them then tacked them.

Im pretty sure its dead on, although I do not have a runout gauge handy for definitive proof.
When I get the rotors turned and the correct lines on, Im gonna go find a nice country road, go about 100mph then lay on the brakes.
If it holds, mission complete. (I aint skurred!) :headbang:
 
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