Battery light...

[SilverBullit]

Well the batt took a shit in the fox, so I just went ahead and replaced the batt and alt since they go hand in hand. Get everything all hooked back up and she fires right up, the batt light is still on and the batt gauge is down too. I drive it around and when I hit the gas the light gets brighter but the gauge stays down? I figured maybe a loose terminal so I check all the cables and wires and everything looks ok The car is not effected at all and runs great but I can't stand having a light on dash...any advice?

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[01bluesnake]

do you have a multimeter or volt meter? if so check battery voltage with car running, should be 13.8 to 14.5 range, if lower than 13's alt more than likely took a dump. cars can run off just the battery for a good amount of time, and longer with a low amperage outputting alt.

 

[SilverBullit]

do you have a multimeter or volt meter? if so check battery voltage with car running, should be 13.8 to 14.5 range, if lower than 13's alt more than likely took a dump. cars can run off just the battery for a good amount of time, and longer with a low amperage outputting alt.

I don't, I'll go up to carquest and have them check it out. I got it from there, just a 75 amp stocker. Thanks:biggthump

 

[01bluesnake]

before you pull the alt back out, try to get even a cheap volt meter from pep's or az, it may be another issue. also make sure no fuses are blown.

 

[SilverBullit]

Will do thank you sir, I'll come back on here and let you know what I find.

 

[SilverBullit]

Well I took the alternator in by itself and had it testes, it passed. Found a corrodid wire near the solenoid, a fuse link. I replaced the wire and it turned off the battery light but the voltage gauge is still down, around 10v. I went and got a volt meter and with thecar off it's at 12.2v and with the car running it's at 11.9v. I know you said if it's under 13 then most likely the alt is shot....it tested good. advice?

 

[01bluesnake]

check for any other possible wire concerns as far as corrosion goes, i'm going to see if i can find a ford wire schematic here at work, and give you some insight on what wires to look for and check as well as other fussible links and fuses.

 

[SilverBullit]

Ok thanks, inside the rectifier plug looked a bit messed up so I went and picked up a new one. Prob not the problem gonna go throw it on after lunch and see, I'll let you know.

 

[SilverBullit]

Ya replacing that plug didn't do a damn thing :thinking:

 

[01bluesnake]

ok, here is the wiring schematic. i'll go through it right now and tell you what to check for voltage and what not. give me a little bit though i have to finish up dinner and put my son to sleep.

 

[SilverBullit]

Ok sounds great thanks!

 

[01bluesnake]

sorry about the delay, i fell asleep yesterday after finishing all the stuff lol. as you can see the alternator is self regulating, so it controls the amount of current/ voltage to be delivered to the battery. i was going to try and explain what to test, but it was easier to copy past this.
Fig. 10 Charging Circuit Test Points. Alternator w/integral Regulator

1. If voltmeter reading indicates 2 volts or over battery voltage (over voltage), proceed as follows:

• 1. Stop engine and place ignition switch in the ``On'' position, then connect voltmeter negative lead to the alternator rear housing.
  2. Connect voltmeter positive lead first to the alternator output connection at the starter solenoid, then to the regulator ``A'' screw head, Fig. 10.
  3. If the voltage difference between the two locations is greater than .5 volts, repair the ``A'' wiring circuit to eliminate the high resistance condition indicated by the excessive voltage drop.
  4. If over voltage condition still exists, check for loose regulator to alternator grounding screws. Torque regulator grounding screws to 15-26 inch lbs.
  5. If over voltage condition still exists, connect voltmeter negative lead to the alternator rear housing.
  6. Place ignition switch in the ``Off'' position, then connect voltmeter positive lead first to the regulator ``A'' screw head and then to the regulator ``F'' screw head, Fig. 10.
  7. Different voltage readings at the two screw heads in step 1f indicates a defective regulator, grounded brush lead or grounded rotor coil. Repair or replace as required.
  8. If battery voltage is obtained at both screw heads in step 1f, replace regulator.

1. If voltmeter does not indicate more than .5 volts over battery voltage, proceed as follows:

• 1. Disconnect wiring plug from regulator, then connect an ohmmeter between regulator ``A'' and ``F'' terminal screws, Fig. 10. Meter should indicate more than 2.4 ohms.
  2. If meter indicates less than 2.4 ohms in step 2a, check integral alternator/regulator unit for a defective regulator, then check the alternator for a shorted rotor or field circuit. Perform Charging System Test procedure after servicing alternator. Do not replace the regulator until a shorted rotor coil or field circuit has been serviced.
  3. If meter indicates greater than 2.4 ohms in step 2a, reconnect regulator wiring plug. Connect voltmeter ground lead to the alternator rear housing and voltmeter positive lead to the regulator ``A'' terminal screw.
  4. Meter should read battery voltage. If battery voltage is not present, repair ``A'' wiring circuit, then perform Charging Circuit Test procedure. If battery voltage is present, connect the voltmeter ground lead to the alternator rear housing.
  5. Place ignition switch in the ``Off'' position, then connect voltmeter positive lead to the regulator ``F'' terminal screw. Meter should indicate battery voltage.
  6. If voltage is not present, check integral alternator/regulator unit for an open field circuit. Repair as required, then perform Charging Circuit Test procedure. If voltmeter indicates battery voltage, connect voltmeter negative ground lead to alternator rear housing.
  7. Turn ignition switch to the ``On'' position and connect voltmeter positive probe lead to the regulator ``F'' terminal screw. Voltmeter should indicate 1.5 volts or less.
  8. If more than 1.5 volts is present, proceed to ``I Circuit Test.'' If ``I Circuit'' is satisfactory, replace the regulator and perform Charging Circuit Test procedure. If 1.5 volts or less is present, disconnect alternator wiring plug and connect suitable jumper wires between the alternator B(+) terminal and mating wiring connector terminals.
  9. Perform Charging System Test procedure, but connect voltmeter positive terminal to one of the B(+) jumper wire terminals.
  10. If voltage rises more than .5 volts above battery voltage, check alternator and starter relay wiring, then repeat Charging System Test procedure, measuring voltage at battery cable clamps.
  11. If voltage does not rise more than .5 volts above battery voltage, connect jumper wire from alternator rear housing to the regulator ``F'' terminal.
  12. Repeat Charging System Tests procedure with voltmeter positive lead connected to one of the jumper wire terminals.
  13. If voltage rises more than .5 volts, replace regulator. If voltage does not rise more than .5 volts, service the alternator.

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V...7/34863651/122961201/144092503/144092505#foot

 

[SilverBullit]

No prob, thank you very much. I'll try to get going on this after the weekend and let you know what I find, thanks.

 

[01bluesnake]

thank you, let me know what you find, or if you need some more insight. i can always shoot out by you after work if you need some help checking it out. i work in arlington heights, so not to far away.

 

[SilverBullit]

Ok, it seems like alot of the stuff you check either comes back to a bad wire or bad regulator...the regulator would be to easy lol I know its a damn wire somehwere!

 

[01bluesnake]

ya i noticed lol, how did they test the alt by chance? wire hookup? did they use a oem style plug in connector at stock port or just 1 power cable and spinning it? i'm thinking maybe they tested for max output by bypassing the internal regulators function, which wouldn't catch a fault with it. i'm not sure how they test those there.

 

[SilverBullit]

I'm pretty sure they plugged in oem connectors but I might just give car quest a call and see how I could go about getting a new regulator.

 

[SilverBullit]

ya i noticed lol, how did they test the alt by chance? wire hookup? did they use a oem style plug in connector at stock port or just 1 power cable and spinning it? i'm thinking maybe they tested for max output by bypassing the internal regulators function, which wouldn't catch a fault with it. i'm not sure how they test those there.

Well went a exchanged the alt with a new regulator and that isn't the problem, F*$k! lol Ofcourse it couldn't be something simple...looks like a bad wire or connection...know where the nearest bridge is?:alcoholic

 

[01bluesnake]

that sucks. looks like your going to have to start doing voltage drop test, and ohm'ing out wires. check out the other fuse link, first and go from there. if you need a hand i could come by tomorrow morning as i was suppose to go get my car tinted, but he called me to come tonight so tomorrow is free now.