When Welding Axle Tubes.....
- Thread starter Zack
- Start date
i have had several cars done with the tubes,fluid,gear and everything else in there. matter of fact i saw tommy from trz motosports weld the tubes on several cars with everything in there. its not like your car is going to dogtrack or anything. i weld them in 1/2" increments so it doesn't distort from the heat. you will be just fine. haven't had one twist or bend yet and in my stick car i drop the clutch at 6200 rpm with 1.32 60's. if your building a serious piece then i would recommend takin it out and putting it in a jig.
Yep, price!
Thanks to all and CREJoe for the help, but im gonna cheap it out this season. I may not do anything at all!
Ill wait til winter and do it properly. :clap:
You can't be serious. He broke axles, that means he was applying at least a little bit of torque through the rearend and had some traction (probably due to the vehicle weight) so his housing could very well be tweaked now as well. It should be checked with a bar (with the internals removed), probably needs to be straightened, then welded... in a jig to keep it straight. It will be much less likely to twist or bend after it is welded...so it's the condition beforehand that is important. As far as welding it with gear lube and components inside, that makes for a dirty, ie. contaminated, weld since the gear lube will seep into the weld area due to the crappy factory press fit between the axle tube and center section. But then again, you wouldn't notice it if it was done with a MIG welder. :biggthump
I wouldn't trust anything that comes out of TRZ. Them guys have had welds break on cages they installed. Are they even still around? I was in their shop once maybe 10 years ago.
Sure you can do it with the rearend in the car, but the right way of doing it is to remove it and put it on a jig. I think I paid $200 to have mine welded.
Price and weight. There is really no need to put a 9" in if you aren't making serious power. A built 8.8 is plenty strong. You can run 9's without a problem on a properly built 8.8 and parts will only cost you around $1,000, where a complete 9" is like $2,500.
really, show me the proof. show me one cage they did that the welds just "broke." actually they are still in business, just not local anymore. they are one of the premier shops for g-body and mustang suspensions/chassis in the country. go on yellowbullet and ask if anyone knows trz motorsports and see what happens.
of course you wouldnt know that cause you don't venture outside of this forum.
Welding the tubes isn't rocket science guys. Common sense tells you taking the rear out and welding it is better.....but you don't NEED a fixture for it. After checking to make sure it is straight, just clamp it to the table and weld it. A good welder knows how to weld it to keep it from pulling. But I don't see a problem with welding it in the car either, as long as you know it isn't already tweeked. Tack it in multiple places before welding and stick weld it instead of tig welding to insure a good weld while putting less joules of heat in it to help prevent it from warping. Use 100 tensile rod, and skip around. No big deal.
finally a guy with some common sense. careful though............. your headed against the norm in here. i mean after all, how many guys in this thread can actually weld; besides you,me and the guy whos trying to promote his business? rofl.
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