O2 sensor wire colors and slow switching code

[smug]

Can some one confirm what each of the four O2 sensor wires are for on the pre- cat O2 sensor on my 01 GP. Last time I drove my car the service engine light came on for a slow switching O2 sensor, P1133, I think. I cleared the code first, bought a new Denso O2 sensor, and the first time I drove the car with the new sensor the service engine light came back on with the same code.

I did not really find any solid info on Google for a Grand Prix, so from what I have read

Black = ground
Pink = hot, key on
Purple = high signal
Tan = low signal

Click to read more...

 

[01abboud]

It may have nothing to do with your wiring... I'm sure you know more about these things than I do (I'm still very much learning)... Do you still have a rear O2 sensor? I removed mine, and got a P1133 code because my 01 Regal would run a catalyst efficiency test 18 times per trip (dumping fuel to see if it's working), because it never got any signal from the rear O2. I'd reset it, and it would just keep coming back. Apparently the GPs do the same thing. I was able to disable the test using Tiny Tuner and a DHP.

I apologize if you've already done this!

 

[smug]

I have not had a cat or rear O2 sensor for about 5 or 6 years now. First time this code came up. I would like to test the wires to make sure I don't have a problem.

 

[bikrboy128]

Black = ground
Pink = hot, key on
Purple = high signal
Tan = low signal

i just checked shopkey, and you've got it exactly right. there's a ground on a trans stud, which is the ground shared by both O2s. i've had a bad ground there cause switching and heater issues. that's where i'd check first

 

[smug]

Thanks
I want to at least make sure I have a good ground and hot wire.

 

[smug]

Ground and hot wire tested out okay. Had the car running in the garage for a few minuets and the sensor was switching fast via scan gauge so.

FWIW the rear O2 has a simulator plugged in and so far I have never had a problem with that. Also the original pre cat O2 was of unknown age and mileage and it needed to be changed anyways. I guess all I can do for now is wait until I start driving the car in spring and see if the code wants to come back or not.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

did you check voltage drop to ground with the sensor plugged in and maybe with the heater on?
signal side can be finicky about voltage drop since the pcm grounds are to the same point
it seems to have triggered with the wornout and with the new o2's right?
if so the likelyhood of it being sensor related wentdown a good bit so i'd check any and all connectors that have been disconnected "often"
some of us 3800 guys use zippers to hold in our shit so its easier to take it apart
what was the sensor min/max and how many cycles a second?
wait and see i guess but ya may have "cleaned" a connection that needed to be unpluged and plugged in

A notice for all that may have intermittent electrical gremlins:
http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2009/08/gm-techlink---august-2009.html

been seeing this on lots of cars lately...enjoy all them fancy gizmo's and gadgets while ya can cause as your car gets older......
this stuff probably apply's to many connectors not just gm, realise that alot of pcm and computer pins are now gold plated but many other components arent

 

[smug]

did you check voltage drop to ground with the sensor plugged in and maybe with the heater on?
signal side can be finicky about voltage drop since the pcm grounds are to the same point
it seems to have triggered with the wornout and with the new o2's right?
if so the likelyhood of it being sensor related wentdown a good bit so i'd check any and all connectors that have been disconnected "often"
some of us 3800 guys use zippers to hold in our shit so its easier to take it apart
what was the sensor min/max and how many cycles a second?
wait and see i guess but ya may have "cleaned" a connection that needed to be unpluged and plugged in

A notice for all that may have intermittent electrical gremlins:
http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2009/08/gm-techlink---august-2009.html

been seeing this on lots of cars lately...enjoy all them fancy gizmo's and gadgets while ya can cause as your car gets older......
this stuff probably apply's to many connectors not just gm, realise that alot of pcm and computer pins are now gold plated but many other components arent

I did not measure any voltage drop across the sensor. Just unplugged it and tested the wires at the end of the engine harness.

Yes, the code first came on with the worn out O2, cleared the code, drove the car a couple more times, replaced the sensor, then the same code came back as soon as I drove the car right after replacing the sensor.

Trying to remember what the scan gauge showed while the car was idling and I gave it a couple small revs, seen like 45 and over 900. I could not say how fast it was switching but I will say it was much faster then the old sensor.

 

[10sec]

Sounds like it's working to me, probably was the XX amount of key turns before the CEL comes on for the code from the old sensor. I'll bet it doesn't come back on.

 

[smug]

Sounds like it's working to me, probably was the XX amount of key turns before the CEL comes on for the code from the old sensor. I'll bet it doesn't come back on.

That is what I am thinking

 

[smug]

I drove the GTX to work today and on the way home the P0113 light came back on

 

[TommyGloves]

Is your IAT plugged in?

 

[smug]

I have a Timing commander set at 0 plugged into the IAT

 

[TommyGloves]

Race...C-A-R!

Hmmm...try taking it out and connecting thr stock harness straight to the IAT.

 

[smug]

I will do that next time I drive the car

 

[smug]

Code came back again today with out the timing commander plugged in

Might just use that wonderful powertuner and delete the code