CV axle driver side
- Thread starter Alacran
- Start date
The boots rip tossing all the grease all over the place
As a matter of fact I just replaced my driver side drive shaft last weekend.
It took me about 4 hours, it's not that difficult. I had to replace the passenger side a year ago it took me like 8 hours.
1) remove the wheel , rotors and brakes.
2) remove the wheel bearing and the 34 mm nut holding the drive shaft in.
3) remove the sway bar link (i bet it will break in half) and the steering tie rod
4) remove the lower control arm bolts
5) now you can pry the drive shaft from the transmission (this can be a bitch)
with the lower control arm loose this will give you room to get everything apart. I just got refurbished drive shafts from AutoZone for $50 and the sway bar link for $3
If you need more room you can remove the 3 bolts holding the strut on from under the hood (it's up to you) also when you go to pull the drive shaft out just pull on it till the boot on the transmission side just pops apart. It is much easier to remove the axle hub without the shaft attached
You can always PM me if you have any questions I can give you my cell and walk you through it if you need it.
Yep I know what you mean
if his boot is ripped it is just easier to replace the whole axle than to try to just replace the boot.
IIRC the boot is like 25 bucks the entire drive shaft is 50 bucks (from the Zone)
They are cheep and so far have worked just fine for me. The only reason I go to the Zone is because there is one about 1 mile from my house and it is easy
if his boot is ripped it is just easier to replace the whole axle than to try to just replace the boot.
IIRC the boot is like 25 bucks the entire drive shaft is 50 bucks (from the Zone)
They are cheep and so far have worked just fine for me. The only reason I go to the Zone is because there is one about 1 mile from my house and it is easy
Really? just tighten the clamp? The boot was not completely destroyed but it seems to be leaking from the boot itself and not the clamp. Damn now i am wondering. I will get a better look when i replace the wheel hub. I just want a stock driver side shaft on hand to be ready just in case.
Are all shafts the same between model years and different engines?
@Carl - right now i am trying to get parts. It has MOOG ball joints so it may be better to unbolt it from the LCA.
TIA
Nick
Are all shafts the same between model years and different engines?
@Carl - right now i am trying to get parts. It has MOOG ball joints so it may be better to unbolt it from the LCA.
TIA
Nick
This is the most complicated way of changing an axle I've ever heard. No wonder it took you 3 extra hours.
fuck i have done it in a gas station parking lot in under one.
Can you get the axle out of the bearing without disconnecting anything other then the axle nut? I can't remember
Either way popping off the ball joint is quick and popping it out of the trans is easy too especially with a nice pry bar. Ive used shitty screw drivers or a hammer to pop them out too, it's not like you're keeping it.
Either way popping off the ball joint is quick and popping it out of the trans is easy too especially with a nice pry bar. Ive used shitty screw drivers or a hammer to pop them out too, it's not like you're keeping it.
You just wasted a fuck ton of time explaining how to do something wrong. Armchair mechanics FTW
Yes, the axle nuts are 159 ft-lb. The ball joint method is easier, just be careful to not tear the boot or you're gonna be spending more money. While you're in there, you might as well replace the bearing ( 9/10 times, the bearing separates) Go the easy route, rent a slide hammer if you don't have one as well as a CV removal tool from AutoZone. Looks like a "C" with a bolt hole in the middle of the C. That screws into the slide hammer and with one or two easy "bangs" the CV slides out. Did mine in about three hours both sides, including all the cleanup of the trans fluid the car pissed when I pulled the CV's
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