Just trying to work out the bugs in the new build... I'd say right now the most annoying thing is the car dieing when I put it in gear. I'll start the car and it'll stay running, but the second I put the car in reverse/drive it just chokes and dies. The only way to get it to move is hitting the gas while I'm putting it into gear. Once I get the car going it usually won't die again. Other things.. The idle is a little jumpy when the car is sitting either at a light or just in park. Not too bad though, just flutters between 800 and 1100 rpm. Throttle response also seems a little delayed when I hit the gas at any time driving or from a stop. I'm thinking there's probably one thing causing all of that stuff, but this one I don't think is related. Car heats up pretty good alot. It'll climb all the way up to 210-220, sit there for a bit, and then suddenly just drop back down to 180-190 within a couple seconds. Radiator and overflow tank are full and we pressure tested the coolant system up to 15 psi, so I'm completely clueless on that one.
Some issues with the new setup
- Thread starter GTwolf
- Start date
Yeah the MAF is good to go. I didn't have it hooked up at first so I thought that was the cause of all the issues, but it's all set up now and I've driven it enough where the fuel trims should have re-adjusted to having the maf. Let the SES light go off by itself too, didn't reset. No unfortunately I don't have a wideband just yet so I can't see the trims.
Both, if it idles too long they'll start to climb, and if I get into boost while driving they go up real quick.
The wideband wont read fuel trims, just AFR. Sounds like you need a scan gauge or a tuner/scanner to see whats going on. Add that to the list as well as a wideband.
how are you bleeding the coolant system?
it could be I would think. I could easily see these issues coming up if your car was too rich/too lean...prolly too rich IMO.
The cooling issue is a little odd though. That is usually not tune related, especially if the pcm is programmed for the tstat
Edit: the only thing I can think of is that your coolant sensor is junk. Do you have an aftermarket coolant gauge? or is it stock? I heard stock ones can be junk for sure
The cooling issue is a little odd though. That is usually not tune related, especially if the pcm is programmed for the tstat
Edit: the only thing I can think of is that your coolant sensor is junk. Do you have an aftermarket coolant gauge? or is it stock? I heard stock ones can be junk for sure
The fact that your temp gauge reads high then drops to 180ish seems strange. Coolant temps can't drop that quick. I would see if you can get a different coolant gauge along with your wideband. At least hook up a seperate coolant gauge temporarily and see if that also reads the increased engine temps.
Good idea I will see what the scanner says about the actual coolant temp. Will try and get it hooked up tomorrow and scan for knock, check the temps, ect.
Sorry didn't see this, we used the pre-mix 50/50 prestone. We bled it back when we did the topswap when we got the dexcool out, been using prestone since.
Actually that could be my problem. It almost seems like what's happening it the intercooler is doing all the work and the coolant is barely flowing. If I didn't have the IC I'd be overheating every time I drive it.
It is possible to drop that fast, with a non drilled t stat, dumping a radiator full of 80 degree coolant into a 220 degree engine could easily drop it 40 degrees. This is q common issue with aftermarket thermostats, they will take a high temp to open the first time then cycle fine the rest of the drive. Even my 180 does it, first drive it'll get to 200 ish then pop open, and not go over 180 the rest of the day..... Remember that 210 ish is standard operating temp for a stock 3800. If the car stays hot, I'd maybe play with fan settings and see if you need a bigger radiator. Remember that GT radiator is only 5/8" thick and the GTP is 3/4" thick. 1/8" might not seem like much, but extend that over 4 square feet
ive had plenty of parts store thermostats that occilate pretty bad....i only like to use genuine stant t stats, no duracrap or other bullshit
drill with 1/16th drillbit or pull the dongle out if its equipped to prevent airlock and properly bleed the system, fill it up and bleed it through the t stat neck to eliminate the upper hose airbubble
drill with 1/16th drillbit or pull the dongle out if its equipped to prevent airlock and properly bleed the system, fill it up and bleed it through the t stat neck to eliminate the upper hose airbubble
possibly
maybe the fans are just that good. doubtful though.
did you tune it yourself
I think you should have installed a wideband and gotten some sort of scanner or tuning software before you tried to just drive the car with the cam. Your MAF probably needs to be re-calibrated, as it is most likely seeing higher flow rates at lower frequency outputs (Hertz)
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