timing cover removal?

[jreed]

Does this look like a good write-up? Does anyone have anything to add/take away?

You will need: coolant, metric socket set, standard socket set, 15/16 socket for crank shaft bolt, socket wrench flex plate wrench, harmonic damper puller tool, ~3 gallons of coolant, 10 quarts of oil, oil filter, Teflon thread sealant, ultra black RTV. Torque wrench. Front cover gasket, oil filter neck gasket. water pump gasket if removed. Cam sensor o ring if desired, coolant elbows, if desired. Impact wrench/ compressor, torque angle gauge, breaker bar. New crank shaft bolt.


Jack car up in front by subframe

Place on jackstands

Disconnect battery

Drain coolant (from a point lower than the water pump on the engine)

Remove passenger side wheel

Remove belts

Remove alternator & bracket

Remove crank shaft bolt (either big impact, or breaker bar + starter method, or flexplate wrench + breaker bar method)

Remove harmonic damper

disconnect Crank/cam PS, oil pressure sensor

you may need to remove oil filter neck

Undo bolts, including the pan bolts that go into the timing cover

remove

clean mating surfaces

reinstall in reverse, torquing everything to spec, crank bolt is 111 ft lbs + a certain angle (don't know of top of my head) to yield it. You should use some lube on the threads so you get proper torque.

fill coolant

change oil

run car for 5-10 minutes and change oil again.



You need to use thread sealant on most front cover bolts, on the oil pressure sender, and on oil filter neck bolts.

You do not have to remove water pump to remove cover, just the bolts that go through the water pump into the block.

You need to use ultra black RTV on front cover to oil pan gasket area (on later cars there is no gasket, but you still need to RTV)

You may need to jack the engine up and remove the mounting bracket to gain access to the bolts holding the pan to the front cover if you have an aluminum pan (don't know for sure, never personally tried.

you can remove coil pack bracket if it makes it easier to work around it.

Click to read more...

 

[02BlueGT]

You will also need to remove the coolant res on 99+ cars, It gives a ton more room when removing the alt, PS pump, upper bolts and other such items from above....

You will need to disconnect the PS pump from the block(IIRC 2 bolts) to get to some of the WP bolts.... You get to the PS pump bolts through the windows in the PS pump pulley

 

[10sec]

Whatcha doooooin? Adding a cam?

 

[jreed]

Already got a xpz cam in there
In short from the "oil in my radiator" post James stated that he believes that my front or rear cover is leaking, prob the front. So trying to pick all of your brains for info, parts, tools, technique. I know nothing!!!

Any info on the rear cover??

 

[02BlueGT]

Already got a xpz cam in there
In short from the "oil in my radiator" post James stated that he believes that my front or rear cover is leaking, prob the front. So trying to pick all of your brains for info, parts, tools, technique. I know nothing!!!

Any info on the rear cover??

Motor out of car

Remove Flywheel

Remove rear cover bolts

 

[10sec]

Yea, the rear cover is EASY as hell.... once you have the motor out I hope James is right about your leak, cause if he's not that's a fuck ton of work to do for no reason. But if it's a cover, it's probably the front.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

unless his block is cracked between an oil passage and a coolant jacket the front and rear covers are the only leak paths to the coolant jacket from a high pressure oil galley. the front cover path for this to be possible is from the upper portion of the cover between the oil filter neck and the coolant port leading to bank2 (cyl 2,4,6)

 

[jreed]

yea i hope so too but thats the only info i got to go on soooooo, idk what to do. Guess the car will sit and sit
would there be anything to look for on the spark plugs in those banks considering it ran for a few minutes???

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

not likely but at the least pull the PS pump and retighten the front cover bolts at the left side of the cover, esp the one 13mm head bolt locatted directly below the pair that hold the WP on, this bolt is close to the block and witht the pS pump out you can see it from below, if that bolt is tight, id pull it out (coolant will drain) and see if its oily on the threads.
with the PS pump outta the way also look around the edges of the cover to block interface and see if any of the gasket is pushed out/in, normal to see ~1mm protrusion on oem type paper gaskets.
what gasket did you use?


other alternative is to pull the WP and drain as much coolant as possible, then with pump off and belts off the balancer, clean the rear pasage to the block...stuff rags in till they come out dry with no water on em...start the car and run it for a few minutes (cold motor with the coolant out of the block should have no problem running for 3-5minutes at idle/high idle with no load)
with it running shove a new clean rag down that passage...if the front cover gasket is leaking clean pressureized oil into the coolant it'll go through there and youll pull out an oily rag....at which point your pulling the cover off and you already have the WP and PS out of yer way

 

[jreed]

Guess ill try removing the water pump and i just replaced that thing well it sounds like the best thing going will post results.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Guess ill try removing the water pump and i just replaced that thing well it sounds like the best thing going will post results.

you just replaced the WP?

cam and old waterpump was installed then later on you had to replace the WP? or was this WP installed at the same time as the cam/original cover removal?

 

[jreed]

cam and old water pump was installed. i had just replaced the water pump before the cam was installed

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

can you see that area of the gasket? is any portion of it pushed out