Dropping the oil pan with motor in car...
- Thread starter DanJ
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You can do it with a couple of 2x4's strapped together across the cowl/rad support with a HD ratcheting strap to support the motor. You have to remove the engine lower mount and the bracket (1 bolt on the bracket will require dexterity and patience).
The flexplate cover comes out, and after all the oil pan bolts are out, it will come out on the flexplate side. It hangs up a little...just force it out...it goes back in the same way but easier.
It's a bitch, but after you've done it you will say to yourself it wasn't that bad.
DO NOT jack up the motor from the pan...it's even easy to dent the pan if you use a piece of wood to spread the load. There is a small spot close to the PS unit where you can get a jack on it to help lift as you tighten the strap to lift the motor. Do not skimp on doing the strap by just jacking up the motor from underneath unless you have a death wish, or don't mind risking loosing your appendages...one slip off the jack while you are removing the MM bracket would be nasty, and when you get to that point you will see what I'm talking about!
The flexplate cover comes out, and after all the oil pan bolts are out, it will come out on the flexplate side. It hangs up a little...just force it out...it goes back in the same way but easier.
It's a bitch, but after you've done it you will say to yourself it wasn't that bad.
DO NOT jack up the motor from the pan...it's even easy to dent the pan if you use a piece of wood to spread the load. There is a small spot close to the PS unit where you can get a jack on it to help lift as you tighten the strap to lift the motor. Do not skimp on doing the strap by just jacking up the motor from underneath unless you have a death wish, or don't mind risking loosing your appendages...one slip off the jack while you are removing the MM bracket would be nasty, and when you get to that point you will see what I'm talking about!
I take off the coil bracket, and the alt bracket...then put the bolts back in for the hooks. It doesn't take much time to get either of them off, and gives you more space to work with (you'll thank me later).
I did forget to mention the balancer will have to come off too. If you don't have a puller, you can borrow my home made tool to do it..makes it real easy.
I did forget to mention the balancer will have to come off too. If you don't have a puller, you can borrow my home made tool to do it..makes it real easy.
start at the oil pressure sensor
its the lime green connector on the oil filter neck behind the motor
unplug the connector and look at the terminal end...if it was running recently before you do this you may see a few drops of oil come off it.
these buggers leak internally through the diaphram crimp and will seep pas the wire/connector grommets while the engine is running...its the primary cause of larger volum oil leaks....esp since she's at 162k...most dont last that long
start there.... 35$ easy sensor > replacing OPG and still having a leak lol
btw if you need to replace it, generally you can get it out with a pair of channel locks but i have the special socket for em as well
its the lime green connector on the oil filter neck behind the motor
unplug the connector and look at the terminal end...if it was running recently before you do this you may see a few drops of oil come off it.
these buggers leak internally through the diaphram crimp and will seep pas the wire/connector grommets while the engine is running...its the primary cause of larger volum oil leaks....esp since she's at 162k...most dont last that long
start there.... 35$ easy sensor > replacing OPG and still having a leak lol
btw if you need to replace it, generally you can get it out with a pair of channel locks but i have the special socket for em as well
start at the oil pressure sensor
its the lime green connector on the oil filter neck behind the motor
unplug the connector and look at the terminal end...if it was running recently before you do this you may see a few drops of oil come off it.
these buggers leak internally through the diaphram crimp and will seep pas the wire/connector grommets while the engine is running...its the primary cause of larger volum oil leaks....esp since she's at 162k...most dont last that long
start there.... 35$ easy sensor > replacing OPG and still having a leak lol
btw if you need to replace it, generally you can get it out with a pair of channel locks but i have the special socket for em as well
That would be great. May look into Sunday when I'm off next. She has an oil slick in her driveway.
yeah i bet its the sensor.... oil slick sounds about right
i keep several good used one's on hand juuust in case lol sometimes they can go from leaking a few drops a day to emptying your oilpan at 60mph cruise in less than 1hour
its best to unplug it and check it after it's been driven for at least 15-30 minutes, though any signs of oil on the internal end of the plug indicate it's leaking
brake clean off the connector real well before you plug it into the new sensor...that way if you manage to get a bum sensor you can tell real easy
i keep several good used one's on hand juuust in case lol sometimes they can go from leaking a few drops a day to emptying your oilpan at 60mph cruise in less than 1hour
its best to unplug it and check it after it's been driven for at least 15-30 minutes, though any signs of oil on the internal end of the plug indicate it's leaking
brake clean off the connector real well before you plug it into the new sensor...that way if you manage to get a bum sensor you can tell real easy
Here is a writeup from the Regal board with pictures.
http://www.regalgs.org/topic/47050-diy-oil-pan-gasket-replacement/
http://www.regalgs.org/topic/47050-diy-oil-pan-gasket-replacement/
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