ZZP vs WBS vs Intense motor mounts
- Thread starter Mook
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The zzp ones are no bueno. Mine caught at the corners closest to the engine so they just vibrated a ton. I sanded it down and it was better but not great. I got full intense ones (square and round) as some free promotion or something and they were much better IMO. I think the metal tube being longer helped probably the most.
I'd do what Ron said and flip them. Just spray a bit of wd-40 in there and grab them with some pliers and spin them 90*. You could squirt some black rtv in the openings too if you want them a bit stiffer.
I'd do what Ron said and flip them. Just spray a bit of wd-40 in there and grab them with some pliers and spin them 90*. You could squirt some black rtv in the openings too if you want them a bit stiffer.
To expand on this, I have modifed upper mounts to adjust them and it works out well.
I like to drill a hole in the front of the mount, and weld a nut to it. I cut some aluminum to fit in the slots of the rubber mount on the radiator side. I put in a hex bolt and tighten down the mount. It's every bit as tight as the poly's, but you can back it off for DD.
If you have nice mounts, do this with some junkyard ones.
lower engine mount (pass side engine to cradle) there are realy only three options...
oem type "solid" which are just hollow air filled oem mounts which ive seen sag all to often causing a lovely gangsta lean, that is quite similar to a blown/leaky hydraulic mount.
oem hydraulic mounts...either oil (or more recently) water filled cavity mounts...they dont sag but when they spring a leak they will...oil filled mounts tend to deteriorate fairly fast...havent seen a newer water filled unit with high miles/failure, but it would also sag when leaking.
zzp full urethane....bring on the harsheness and ya better have the urethane trans mount as well...otherwise the engine/trans tends to twist along a verticle axis under load.
there is a 4th and 5th option...
empty a new oem mount and fill it with rtv/urethane...let it cure for a few weeks....works great for oem type trans mounts...bit firmer than the "solid/hollow" and "hydraulic" mounts but never gonna leak/let you down
or modify the engine mount bracket (the horseshoe) to bolt a energy suspension urethane ford trans/transfercase mount to bolt to it upside down and either use one bolt through the subframe or drill the subframe with two holes on either side of the oem center drain hole to use two bolts. just as stiff as the zzp unit but much cheeper but a bit more labor intensive
i have a couple urethane filled oem mounts curing on my shelf give em a couple weeks and they should be good to go if your still looking at that point.
lower engine mount (pass side engine to cradle) there are realy only three options...
oem type "solid" which are just hollow air filled oem mounts which ive seen sag all to often causing a lovely gangsta lean, that is quite similar to a blown/leaky hydraulic mount.
oem hydraulic mounts...either oil (or more recently) water filled cavity mounts...they dont sag but when they spring a leak they will...oil filled mounts tend to deteriorate fairly fast...havent seen a newer water filled unit with high miles/failure, but it would also sag when leaking.
zzp full urethane....bring on the harsheness and ya better have the urethane trans mount as well...otherwise the engine/trans tends to twist along a verticle axis under load.
there is a 4th and 5th option...
empty a new oem mount and fill it with rtv/urethane...let it cure for a few weeks....works great for oem type trans mounts...bit firmer than the "solid/hollow" and "hydraulic" mounts but never gonna leak/let you down
or modify the engine mount bracket (the horseshoe) to bolt a energy suspension urethane ford trans/transfercase mount to bolt to it upside down and either use one bolt through the subframe or drill the subframe with two holes on either side of the oem center drain hole to use two bolts. just as stiff as the zzp unit but much cheeper but a bit more labor intensive
i have a couple urethane filled oem mounts curing on my shelf give em a couple weeks and they should be good to go if your still looking at that point.
Fuck hydraulic mounts, I've been through 2 sets now in the past 30k miles. My car is all stock valvetrain and it idles rougher than an XPZ cam setup. Let me know how those work out once they're done "curing", that sounds like a good option. Otherwise I'll probably just go with solid mounts this time around. Just grab a pair from autozone or..?
at least 2 weeks, i leave the heat on in the garage.....you ever smell curing urethane/rtv? that shit will get your cohabitants to want to kill you.
the funny thing is the "solid" mounts arent solid...they are hollow with just air in them....air is compressible so the mount sags down....i forget how old panda's mount was when i replaced it but that fucker was sitting on the crossbar and his motor was leaning hard to the passenger side just like a hydraulic does when it blows the puddin'
ill let dave (02bluegt) and panda chime in on how "rough" their filled mounts are.
those mounts go to the subframe anyways and the subframe is mounted to the unibody with rubber bushings so you wouldnt likely see any real difference, but they drive their junk like every day and i dont lol
the funny thing is the "solid" mounts arent solid...they are hollow with just air in them....air is compressible so the mount sags down....i forget how old panda's mount was when i replaced it but that fucker was sitting on the crossbar and his motor was leaning hard to the passenger side just like a hydraulic does when it blows the puddin'
ill let dave (02bluegt) and panda chime in on how "rough" their filled mounts are.
those mounts go to the subframe anyways and the subframe is mounted to the unibody with rubber bushings so you wouldnt likely see any real difference, but they drive their junk like every day and i dont lol
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