I need a new alternator

[Freebeer187]

Yeah I know, basic shit, but before I run out to napa and pick one up I wanted to post here. I talked with James (turbocharged400c) and he told me about a 98 riviera alternator bracket/tensioner assembly and a 140 amp alternator.

He hasn't gotten back to me but is the end result something like this?

This is from here: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/109934.html
oh and shit i just realized that this a web site fieros... not sure if there the same 3800.

Anyway, what do you suggest I do? I do have a sub in the trunk, but I rarely use it. Nothing fancy eaither. Should I go with a high amp alternator or just go to napa and get an alternator and call it a day?

Click to read more...

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

best i can do without going through alot more pics on my Pbucket

 

[10sec]

Go with a stock one, you don't need to go through all of that for a best buy system jammed in the trunk. That can be easily cured with a Capacitor.

 

[AlmightyBirdman]

For what you have I'd say stock.
Don't mean to threadjack, but my cap doesn't do shit so what is this talk about a 140 amp alt from a riviera? Because thats ******s me.

 

[smug]

buy the used one in the for sale section for like 30 bucks
done

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

most ive gotten out of a 105amp at idle is 45 amps, headlights, foglights, heater blower, rear defogger along with the engine/FP running....means at idle your draining your battery...not charging it, going to a 125 amp would give you prob another 10amps at idle so at least youd be charging the battery just a little at idle. the 140 would give even more of a cushion.
the 140 amp is for the more power hungry riviera's, park ave's and bonnies with heated seats, etc.
a cap just evens out the current draw at the amp power system...the headlights still tend to dim/flicker greatly unless you have an alternator that puts out more power at idle than the car is using
plus the earlier bracket means you can pull the rear vc without farting with the bracket and since he's getting up there in miles he's prob gonna need that acc belt tensioner replaced soon.

regardless it's an option thats marginally more expensive than just replacing what he has now especially if the tensioner is worn out and leaning.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

For what you have I'd say stock.
Don't mean to threadjack, but my cap doesn't do shit so what is this talk about a 140 amp alt from a riviera? Because thats ******s me.

you just need the earlier horizontal bolt 96-98 alternator bracket/acc belt tensioner assembly with the 140 amp alternator (only available as the horizontal bolt system) from a 98/99 riv/bonnie/park ave.

it also has an honest to goodness fan to cool it than a damned little pinwheel like the 105 and 125am hd alternators.

 

[10sec]

always over thinking everything. Going through and changing a perfectly well working setup to be "prepared" for a situation that will never happen...

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

i like safetynets and overkill, you know me too well

 

[10sec]

I can't say when he mentioned a 140amp alternator, I was surprised your name popped up.

 

[hellraiser319]

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-5237-...ut-220-amp-alternator-99-00-01-02-8243-5.aspx

Think that will be enough? lol

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

haha no kiddin

but honestly its more that the less % of total load on the alternator the higher the system voltage, which means components dont draw as much current.

the large external fan also keeps em cooler so the alternator lives longer

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-5237-...ut-220-amp-alternator-99-00-01-02-8243-5.aspx

Think that will be enough? lol

yeah but those internal fan units love to get hot as hell i doubt the bearings would last long...but for a hardcore audio system that should work fine as long as the system isnt at max power for extended periods

its 152$ for a 100%new lifetime warr DLgold 98 riv alternator fron autozone and 69$ for the earlier alternator bracket/acc belt tensioner

for a setup that will handle what most people have as long as they arent pushing a 1000watt+ RMS amp

 

[10sec]

A REAL 1000watt RMS amp would be insane i sure hope people don't have that much power in a daily driver.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

im partially deaf from having 1600watts rms just for the subs in my old 92 imperial...those aftermarket high output alternators work great but run hot as hell and they still dont last that long

thankfully i wised up and sold all the amps and subs so i could buy my snapon toolbox and focus on my career

i tell ya what them old RF punch power 12's really hit hard when you have 4 of em, even with 300lbs of dynamat trim pieces were breaking/falling off that damn thing alll the time....sucks RF sold out

i was pretty happy with the single 15" kicker at 200W rms, i "downgraded" to, my ears thank me to this day.

i built a nice system for another friend of mine and he ended up having a seizure while we were tuning it in a jewel osco parking lot.
i pretty much quite the game after that, though i still have my old alpine v12 amps/DSP/parametric eq setups...i wish i hadn't of sold the MB quart stuff...

going fast > going deaf

 

[SuperDaveGSE]

I got mine from a Bonnie...You'll need the Alt the bracket and the wiring clip to slice into the factory wires EASY.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

its the exact same connector/field control wire....why did you have to change yours?

 

[Nofear048]

http://www.alternatorparts.com/gm38_conversion_cs144.htm
here is overkill

 

[1quick]

cant a starter alternator repair shop tweek them up when rebuilding them, I had 3 amps total of 1600w rms in my regal when I had it that ran fine with a cap and optima red top, if I was idleing it would drop the juice way down but they let you rev your car to 2k at the db drags so it was all good

 

[GTwolf]

I've got an extra one for a 99-03. Bought it thinking it was a 97-98 one when the one on my 98 went out. If you want a new stock one 20 bucks and it's yours. Paid $50 for it but it's just taking up space.