GTP rough idle

[ktraver97ss]

My nephew's 97 GTP died at a light yesterday and then started idling rough. What are the first things I should look at on these cars? It has 173k on it. I plan on changing the plugs and fuel filter first, is that a good starting point? He is coming to the shop now, and I was going to unplug the MAF to see if that has anything to do with it.

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[utryd2]

Check fuel pressure. There is a sensor/resistor (ant think what it is called) but it is in the pass front fender by washer bucket. It's the white brick with two wires. They go bad and cause those symptoms. There is a kit to extend it to the firewall to prevent it from happening again. I'm sure someone will be able to give u the exact name of it.

Found it. Fuel pump resistor. Google it.

 

[Fish]

Is it throwing a code? How is the car under load? Does it feel like it is missing?

 

[utryd2]

Oh there is a way to check if it is what I was talking about. If I remember correctly (few years ago I did this...found it on google search) you pull the big fuse and bend one prong don't recall which, but when u put the fuse back in try to start the car and if it runs normal it's ur prob.
Hope that helps out.

 

[ktraver97ss]

I haven't driven it yet, so we'll see.

The fuel pump resistor has already been relocated to the firewall.

 

[DanJ]

I'd also look for vacuum leaks.

 

[Fish]

The resistor would just cause it to die and not start. There is a quick fix for that as well. Kinda ghetto, but it will get the car running.

For future reference.

 

[utryd2]

The one I worked on would start but stall right away. Worth a try for free

 

[TommyGloves]

Check the vacuum "t" under the snout. They tend to crack or fall apart.

 

[Yaj Yak]

plugs/wires... thats what i would do.

 

[DanJ]

A scanner would help. If the long term fuel trims are sky high that would be indicative of a vacuum leak.

 

[PANDA]

Kevin I will be in that area after work. Maybe you can wash my car and I can check out the GTP and take it for a scan.

 

[ktraver97ss]

Perfect, he is coming here around 4:30 to do the fuel filter and plugs/wires. See you later.

It wasn't idleing rough last night when he came by the shop, seems to be intermittent.

 

[PANDA]

Since I work to 5:00, I probably wont be at the shop till 5:45-5:50. I know you arnt ******d when PANDA rolls up near close and needs a wash. Figured I would warn you now. Going to need the ktraver special.

 

[The Broken Regal]

yea cant be the FPR, if it was the car would die and only start for a few seconds before dying again... at least from waht ive experienced and heard from most everyone that has theirs go

 

[ktraver97ss]

No prob tonight Panda, I'll be staying late working on his car and drinking some beers anyway. I think a vac leak is possible because a couple little dealios with elec connectors and vac lines going into them are just laying on the back of the motor where they should be mounted to something. I saw one bracket with one hole back there that I think one of them should be attached to. The tension on the lines with them just boucing around could be the cause of the leak, no?

So most likely not the FPR, thanks HK.

Any tricks to getting to the plugs facing the firewall?

 

[Yaj Yak]

undo the front top motor mounts and rotate them up onto the engine... then rock the car back and forth with a friend... when the engine hits the fans, hit the e-brake and you will have more than enough room to do the rear plugs.... or put a ratchet strap/tie down on a motor mount and ratchet strap the engine forward with the motor mounts disconnected... i can get my monkey arms down there when the car is hot on my car... granted i am missing every bracket/egr/bullshit piece back there.

 

[PANDA]

buy headers...

disconnect dog bones, connect ratchet strap, move motor forward. Remove any engine lift brackets while back there.

 

[ktraver97ss]

How is the motor going to move that much with the exhaust and everything connected? I guess Ill find out later.

What is the plug of choice NGK V-pah? platinum?

 

[Frank Dukes]

with the dogbones removed the engine moves forward a solid 4 inches i would guess. its more than enough room to do the job. i just did this last month, and the ratchet straps area a huge life saver. the only thing that slowed me down was the metal heat shields on all the wires at the plug connection end. just rip em out by the shield and cut old wire if need be at the plug to get your spark plug socket on there.

 

[PANDA]

Id buy TR55's for a stockish GTP.

 

[Frank Dukes]

Id buy TR55's for a stockish GTP.

what i put in mine and no complaints.

 

[EmersonHart13]

It will rock, and it is quite the site.

Clean the MAF?

 

[Yaj Yak]

How is the motor going to move that much with the exhaust and everything connected? I guess Ill find out later.

What is the plug of choice NGK V-pah? platinum?

the motor will hit the fans in the car. without a doubt... its pretty easy to change plugs on em... you'll knock it out quicker than you think if the car is cool.

 

[ktraver97ss]

TR55s it is.