ODD A/C Problem

[02BlueGT]

I have Ice cold air on the pass side, but the drivers side gets will not blow cold air, Here is the weird part, both of blend door actuator is in good working condition, Anything else that can cause this?

And I can get full heat on the Drivers side

Click to read more...

 

[10sec]

Means you're low on refrigerant, fill it back up to operation level and bam, cold air on both sides.

 

[02BlueGT]

Means you're low on refrigerant, fill it back up to operation level and bam, cold air on both sides.

That is the second thing I was thinking, like the pass side gets the inlet end of the Evaporator, and there isn't enough refrigerant to cool the entire Evap core... Thanks for the re-assurance

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

bring a can of 134a and ill setup my gauges

 

[G_T_O]

i was having the same damn problem with my ac!

 

[Sinister Drag Designs]

A/C is for sallys.

just get one of these for daily driving-
http://www.polarsoftice.com/racecar.html

 

[raygtps]

Dave, just sit on the passenger side of the car.

 

[The Broken Regal]

Dave, just sit on the passenger side of the car.

 

[TraptPatriot]

It's the orifice tube. It's a $5 part, but very labor intensive...

Write is here - http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4934574&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1

 

[10sec]

It's the orifice tube. It's a $5 part, but very labor intensive...

Write is here - http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4934574&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1

But it's not it's the low refrigerant...

 

[02BlueGT]

But it's not it's the low refrigerant...

Oriface tube problems would cause no cold air on both sides

 

[TraptPatriot]

Unless you have a hard failure of a mode door the problem is the expansion (orfice) tube.

The Dual Zone system uses a split air distribution case. The bottom half of the evaporator supplies cool air to the passenger side and the upper half to the driver side. When the orfice tube starts to become restricted it does not meter enough refrigerant into the evaporator. The R134-A absorbs the heat (cooling the incoming air) at the bottom of the evaporator but by the time it reaches the upper portion it has already absorbed all the heat that it can which results in a loss of cooling on the driver side.

The replacement orfice tube wil look different than the one removed - it is an updated design.

The system will need to be completely evacuated of R-134A to perform this procedure and the brake/traction control module may need to be moved to gain access to the line.

After replacing the expansion tube the system will need to be evacuated and charged. Be sure to add about 1 ounce of GM PAG oil (125cst weight) when charging the system. DO NOT use Ester oil or any other weight oil. You will damage the compressor.

Also MAKE SURE you do not overcharge or undercharge the system (cans). An overcharge will flood the evaporator with R134-A which will cause a loss of cooling and an undercharge will result in a similar condition to which you are having now.

One last thing - DON'T put sealer in the system (the drop in can crap). It is the worst thing you can do to a system. I don't know why the even sell the crap.

(found that on club GP click here to read the rest of the thread: http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m ... s=#1546733 )

And here's the location of said orifice tube...apparently, it's a $5.00 part, but a bit labor intense to replace it. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m ... s=#3793565

I'm like 99% sure this is my problem, stemming from a bad compressor. I'll need to replace the compressor, then install the updated orifice tube.


One more thing: I've also read that if there's pressure issues in the system, the PCM (or BCM ) recognizes this, and does not let the relay kick the compressor on, so don't think that the compressor's bad automatically when it doesn't engage, you may have a pressure problem. I/E overfilled system.

Orifice tube, trust me.

 

[CurlysGTP]

Damn im having the same issue i was told it could be the digital climate controls?? is this true?

 

[10sec]

Why dont' you guys get a $10 thing of refrigerant, put it in, see that you'll have cold air on BOTH sides again and stop assuming this stupid orifice tube is the problem. I had the problem, filled up with refrigerant, problem gone, same with bikrboy, and numerous others. If your a/c system was new then this would be unlikely, but they're not, therefore that's the problem.

 

[DarkShadow]

My regal had the same problem, and it was the orifice tube also, took it out and it was very restricted compared to the new one.

 

[raygtps]

Why dont' you guys get a $10 thing of refrigerant, put it in, see that you'll have cold air on BOTH sides again and stop assuming this stupid orifice tube is the problem. I had the problem, filled up with refrigerant, problem gone, same with bikrboy, and numerous others. If your a/c system was new then this would be unlikely, but they're not, therefore that's the problem.

All ac systems lose refrigerant and need to be recharged on a somewhat regular bases. With that being said your $10.00 5 minute fix is the best place to start, because the system could more then likely use a charge or a top off any way and it's quick and cheep. Just because something doesn't work doesn't mean it has to cost a lot or take a lot of time to fix it.

Ray, he knows so much, but posts so little usefull info......

This is why I don't post a lot.

 

[10sec]

This is why I don't post a lot.

You should post more, but you're too busy practicing your 60's on that tractor of yours.

 

[raygtps]

You should post more, but you're too busy practicing your 60's on that tractor of yours.

LOL, YA BUDDY !!!

 

[bikrboy128]

All ac systems lose refrigerant and need to be recharged on a somewhat regular bases.

my jeep has the same refrigerant it rolled off the assembly line with 11 years ago.
my dad's 95 suburban that he bought new has never been serviced either. AC systems should never need a recharge, unless there is a leak.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

grab a can and i'll give ya my gauges, at the least check relaxed pressure and your high/lowside delta, that will give us a clue if daves orifice is clogged...from all that healthy food

9 out of ten times that the orifice tube is clogged the compressor is about to shit bricks all through the condenser and fuck all sorts of shit up.

and yes dave i do have a vac pump so if you have to repair it....

 

[CurlysGTP]

added a can and that seemed to fix the issue.

 

[TraptPatriot]

added a can and that seemed to fix the issue.

For how long though? Let us know in about a week how it goes.

 

[02BlueGT]

All ac systems lose refrigerant and need to be recharged on a somewhat regular bases. With that being said your $10.00 5 minute fix is the best place to start, because the system could more then likely use a charge or a top off any way and it's quick and cheep. Just because something doesn't work doesn't mean it has to cost a lot or take a lot of time to fix it.

R-12 systems actually vented, if a R134a system is low, it has a leak.... Ac didn't work at all when I first got warm outside, I added a little refrigerant, and it started working on the one side... I just need to get more refrigerant at some point...

Unless you have a hard failure of a mode door the problem is the expansion (orfice) tube.

The Dual Zone system uses a split air distribution case. The bottom half of the evaporator supplies cool air to the passenger side and the upper half to the driver side. When the orfice tube starts to become restricted it does not meter enough refrigerant into the evaporator. The R134-A absorbs the heat (cooling the incoming air) at the bottom of the evaporator but by the time it reaches the upper portion it has already absorbed all the heat that it can which results in a loss of cooling on the driver side.

The replacement orfice tube wil look different than the one removed - it is an updated design.

The system will need to be completely evacuated of R-134A to perform this procedure and the brake/traction control module may need to be moved to gain access to the line.

After replacing the expansion tube the system will need to be evacuated and charged. Be sure to add about 1 ounce of GM PAG oil (125cst weight) when charging the system. DO NOT use Ester oil or any other weight oil. You will damage the compressor.

Also MAKE SURE you do not overcharge or undercharge the system (cans). An overcharge will flood the evaporator with R134-A which will cause a loss of cooling and an undercharge will result in a similar condition to which you are having now.

One last thing - DON'T put sealer in the system (the drop in can crap). It is the worst thing you can do to a system. I don't know why the even sell the crap.

(found that on club GP click here to read the rest of the thread: http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m ... s=#1546733 )

And here's the location of said orifice tube...apparently, it's a $5.00 part, but a bit labor intense to replace it. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m ... s=#3793565

I'm like 99% sure this is my problem, stemming from a bad compressor. I'll need to replace the compressor, then install the updated orifice tube.


One more thing: I've also read that if there's pressure issues in the system, the PCM (or BCM ) recognizes this, and does not let the relay kick the compressor on, so don't think that the compressor's bad automatically when it doesn't engage, you may have a pressure problem. I/E overfilled system.

Orifice tube, trust me.

That article even states that an under charge would cause the same situation as a partially clogged orifice tube

 

[CurlysGTP]

For how long though? Let us know in about a week how it goes.

ok

 

[TraptPatriot]

That article even states that an under charge would cause the same situation as a partially clogged orifice tube

*shrugs* Sorry I tried to help out, if you didn't need help why make a post about it?

*EDIT* And you didn't even know an orifice tube would cause the same issues you had, so why do you act like I am wasting my time?