GTP Pulley issues

Xtant12

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May 31, 2007
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So I was doing the 8 rib converstio today and here is my problem. I hope you guys can help. I got the 2 pulleys ( Smooth ones ) on and they spin fine, but the new pulley from ZZP anytime you screw it in the dam thing locks. It becomes so tight it wont move. If anyone has dont the 8 rib conversion did you guys get things besides the pulleys. I even tried to change out the bolts and see if that helps. At this point im at a loss I dont know why this is happening??
 

TommyGloves

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Check the head of the bolt to make sure it doesn't dig into the body of the pulley. If it does (which I'm almost 99% sure it is), just go to the hardware store and buy one or two thin washers. Put one between the bolt and the bearing inside the pulley. If it spins freely, you're golden. If that doesn' work, try a second one. You can put a washer in both sides i need be.

I have the ZZP pulleys and had to do that one one of the idler pulleys.

HTH
 

Xtant12

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May 31, 2007
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Ill try the washer thing Tuesday. Thanks guys. And Turbo 400, I have no idea what you said. LOL. So anyone know how to get the crank pulley off? Me and 2 guys tried pulling the bar up to brake the pulley free and had a third guy making sure the fly wheel didn't move. That nut is over torqued if I may say so.
 

02BlueGT

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Ill try the washer thing Tuesday. Thanks guys. And Turbo 400, I have no idea what you said. LOL. So anyone know how to get the crank pulley off? Me and 2 guys tried pulling the bar up to brake the pulley free and had a third guy making sure the fly wheel didn't move. That nut is over torqued if I may say so.

Breaker bar, in the LCA, crank the engine.... Shit loosens right up, Starter has as much or more force than an impact.... just make sure the engine cannot start(I just pulled a few power-train fuses)

Took 5 minutes including disabling the engine, and setting up the ratchet, just put it in the opening of the LCA so it is against it when the engine cranks... There are a few write-ups on ClubGp on how to do it
 

Xtant12

TCG Elite Member
May 31, 2007
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the combination of breaker bar + long pipe + my manly arms has always worked for me.

Yeah but, Im a little guy! LOL

Well I solved the 8 rib pulley problem. The new pulleys from zzp was perfectly flat. The old one has a slight gap so that the black washer thing that the bolt slides through will not hit it. I tried a few washers and the same problem kept happening so I just put the pulley on with out that black ring and now its tight as hell and spins fine..

Now this week my mission is to get that fucking crank off. My braker bar is only about 2 feet. Anyone know where I can get a good stroung metal bar thats about 3 feet?

By the way thanks for all your help guys..
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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step away from the vehicle.
using a torch will likely melt the crank sensor, among other things.
you need a 1/2 inch impact to get the bolt off. any other way will waste time and cause headaches.
under the head of the bolt is a locktite/sealant, heating up just the head of the bolt softens it enough to help break it free the crank sensor is behing the dampner and will be perfectly fine is the flame is concentrated on the bolt head/surrounding metal, you only heating it up to ~150-200* or so not any hotter than it would see in operation...in fact if you go to remove the bolt right after driving for an hour you dont need the torch

daves right about the starter method... works great
 

Xtant12

TCG Elite Member
May 31, 2007
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under the head of the bolt is a locktite/sealant, heating up just the head of the bolt softens it enough to help break it free the crank sensor is behing the dampner and will be perfectly fine is the flame is concentrated on the bolt head/surrounding metal, you only heating it up to ~150-200* or so not any hotter than it would see in operation...in fact if you go to remove the bolt right after driving for an hour you dont need the torch

daves right about the starter method... works great

Im going to buy a pipe today and i plan to try this this weekend. So If I drive it for an hour i wont need to heat it huh. That sounds like a plan .

Thank you guy
 

Xtant12

TCG Elite Member
May 31, 2007
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I cheated. I was by my self so had no one to hold the fly wheel so I just took it to the dealer and they took it off and put it back on so I could get it off at home. Took them less then 2 mins. ( actually 10 because they were asking all kinds of questions about my car )

So mow that thats done, can anyone walk me through using this pulley puller. Its a bunch of bolts and I have never used one..
 

Bob Kazamakis

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Well first you'll need the correct bolts; if I'm not mistaken most pullers don't have the correct ones. Second you'll need something to go inside the crank snout for the puller to push on otherwise you'll damage the threads. I used a piece of round stock.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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solid steel bar stock 2/2 inch to 5/8ths i think is max dia you can fit (thread od is 3/4 1/16th thread depth max means 5/8 might be tight), half inch dia should work fine as well (id rec dimpling/centerpunching the center of the rod) cut to length then use puller

alternatly you can just thread in the center bolt till it's 3/16ths away from the dampner and use the puller pull it out 1/8th/316ths, loosen puller, unscrew crank bolt, repeat

have fun lol
 
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