Engine is out

[Supercharged]

I got the engine out today and pulled the pan only to find metal shavings in the pan.

Pulled the rod caps and the bearings actually looked really good..still had the gray babbit on them (not bad for 175,000 miles). I didn't get the balancer off yet to pull the cam, but I think the cam bearings may be where the failure occured. The lifters looked good and didn't have any unusual wear on them.

More to come hopefully tomorrow night.

Click to read more...

 

[Yaj Yak]

get a l36.

 

[bikrboy128]

good to hear you got it out.
im going to second what KJ suggested. higher compression ftw

 

[Supercharged]

Ok, now, if I can find an L36 I need to get a bigger pulley so I don't kill the thing again right?

Second, if I get an XP cam, I just need to pull the front cover and swap the cam out and put my new timing set in. Will this give me a little leeway to keep my 3.4 pulley or should I still bump to a bigger pulley?

 

[Supercharged]

You guys make a valid point too, I started pricing out bearings and gaskets if to put the motor back together...they add up quick!!!!

 

[Yaj Yak]

ya f that... just get an l36... run a bigger pulley... and have more fun.

 

[Supercharged]

Anybody know where I can get some of my parts hot tanked, need to get them cleaned up a bit.

 

[TommyGloves]

Good to hear. Get that new engine runnin' for the Oct track day. (Also, get a MPS pulley system instead of the old school press-ons. :wink: )

(BTW - If you need to use my pulley puller or snout machining tool just let me know.)

 

[bikrboy128]

Second, if I get an XP cam, I just need to pull the front cover and swap the cam out and put my new timing set in. Will this give me a little leeway to keep my 3.4 pulley or should I still bump to a bigger pulley?

yeah, swapping cams while the engine is out is much easier. if you are going L36 you need to pull the heads off anyway, might as well stuff a nice bump stick in while it's all apart.
you wont see much boost with a 3.4 and XP cam. it would be a very safe pulley to run, even with higher compression. IIRC i saw 5-6PSI with a 3.4 on an XP cam

 

[Handsome Jesus]

I still see 8 psi on an S1X with a 3.4. Definitely put a cam in anyway

anyway I know opel engineering in streamwood/schaumburg has a tank and are fairly reasonably priced. they have full machine shop capability as well.

they also can bake cylinder heads and make them look like new. make sure you remove everything from the heads first though... otherwise they tack on some hefty sums for removing parts... spark plugs = $20 removal fee!

 

[The Broken Regal]

I still see 8 psi on an S1X with a 3.4. Definitely put a cam in anyway

anyway I know opel engineering in streamwood/schaumburg has a tank and are fairly reasonably priced. they have full machine shop capability as well.

they also can bake cylinder heads and make them look like new. make sure you remove everything from the heads first though... otherwise they tack on some hefty sums for removing parts... spark plugs = $20 removal fee!

damn you still pull 8psi with that large of a pulley with a cam???

dang, never thought that

what timing can you run with the 3.4 then?

/threadjack

 

[1998gpgt]

damn you still pull 8psi with that large of a pulley with a cam???

dang, never thought that

what timing can you run with the 3.4 then?

/threadjack

Im seeing 7-8ish lbs with a 3.3, xp, pacesetters setup

 

[sp_dynasty]

i see over 12 with a 3.6 and 1.9 rockers

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Gen 5.

 

[10sec]

x2 ^^^ I get about 14psi with a 3.35/intake/dp 19* of timing :smile:

 

[PANDA]

My green gtp did almost 15 psi on a 3.4, Intake, ubend delete. This was freezing temperatures.

 

[Handsome Jesus]

no genV for me... stock Gen 3, 4"intake stock TB, mild ported heads and LIM and pacepoopers with 3" (single) exhaust. 160-165 kpa

Knock at 2.5* on 15 degrees WOT timing (base timing in DHP set at 13)

I has Problems.

 

[Supercharged]

I still see 8 psi on an S1X with a 3.4. Definitely put a cam in anyway

anyway I know opel engineering in streamwood/schaumburg has a tank and are fairly reasonably priced. they have full machine shop capability as well.

they also can bake cylinder heads and make them look like new. make sure you remove everything from the heads first though... otherwise they tack on some hefty sums for removing parts... spark plugs = $20 removal fee!

Do you know what they charge for a VJ and surface? I can reassemble myself if they charge more for that.

 

[Supercharged]

Good to hear. Get that new engine runnin' for the Oct track day. (Also, get a MPS pulley system instead of the old school press-ons. :wink: )

(BTW - If you need to use my pulley puller or snout machining tool just let me know.)

I'll see what I can do, funds will decide what happens. I have a quick change setup on the car with a 3.4...I traded my press on 3.25 to one of the old CGPC guys that had a 40th Anniversary..can't remember his name.

But I will need to pull that off anyway..while this is apart it would be a good time to change the front seal, I noticed its leaking.

 

[syP]

rebuilding a 3800 = FTL

dropping in junkyard block = FTW

 

[Handsome Jesus]

I do not know what a valve job costs there nor do I know a resurface for heads or anything.

the heads I gave them were 20k heads and just needed lapping after the baking.

IIRC the baking was like $40-$60 and tanking was 50 or something for a block... something like that. Dont quote me though

Look em up and give them a call.

 

[bikrboy128]

i wish i had a picture of the inside of GTP Mike's rebuilt engine.

 

[Supercharged]

Pulled the front cover and started pulling the cam..it was stuck at first them the first journal came out. THen I couldn't get it to slide into the next journal so I pulled out the flash light and found the cam bearing that would be closest to the bell housing came out and was blocking the cam from moving any farther.

I will pull rod/pistons from 5 & 6 tomorrow night and get some pictures before I pull it out.

Feedback please - If I go with a junkyard motor I risk something that may not have been taken care of....I still need to buy gaskets and reseal the motor if I do that don't I? Why not put fresh bearings in and keep this one? I'm hoping to do an S1X or XP so I have to pull the front cover anyway? Not looking to argue or flame, just want to understand the junkyard vs. fresh bearings...I take it it's not like an old small block chevy?

 

[phat_ridegt]

rebuilding a 3800 = FTL

dropping in junkyard block = FTW

x2 man, ive bought a few l26 motors for under 500 dollars, that had less than 35k on them.

for 500 bones, you will be money/time ahead, plus it will save you run having to tear it down again.

 

[Handsome Jesus]

I'd say that most of the time junkyard motors have good bearings in them still... especially with lower miles like phatride said.

the motors are pretty stout... I don't see much of a problem with a junkyard motor. you can also tell a lot about a junkyard block by how the lower intake looks. lots of goo and pitting from coolant leaking could lead to bad things. know what i'm sayin?