Nitrous question
- Thread starter GLIKENNY
- Start date
what will need to be tuned?? right now i have an overkill pcm. but i will not send it back to him. ill never get it back. since i kept my stock pcm i guess ill play with that one. but what will need to be changed?
A lot, Fueling, spark advance, pretty much everything you can change.... 10 secondsomeday, or someone else on here that actually has a nitrous tune could answer that question in a lot more detail than I ever could
ok ill send him a PM and see what he has to say. is there anyone else that runs N2O here?
your tune needs to be pretty much dead on, pull timing for the spray, i have had sbc's that didnt need timing pulled but the general rule of thumb is 2* per 50hp shot and work your way back...
jet her a bit fat unless yer sure there's no chance that yer bottle pressure doesnt jump too high
The only problem I have with wet, is the drop in FP when the wet shot happens, you may be getting extra fuel with the nitrous, but your injectors are seeing lower than normal pressures, so you can still have a fueling issue
as long as the pump can feed the fuel the pressure drop is for a split second as the fpr seats and then unseats....also one reason why you trigger the fuel solenoid and check pressure drop through a larger jet...if pressure drops drasticly a better FPR and/or pump is needed.The only problem I have with wet, is the drop in FP when the wet shot happens, you may be getting extra fuel with the nitrous, but your injectors are seeing lower than normal pressures, so you can still have a fueling issue
i dont know where the hell my phone is i had it when i went with my pops up to Rohl to see about my classA
damn i fergot the plugs...cutback the groundstraps regardless of the heatrange, be carefull with the manu's jet specs...most are for a generic 50psi and those of us boosting to 70psi (like the riv, big turbo, etc) you want to jet it for the fuel pressure seen at wot, there's some math you can do to compensate for it.
small dremel cutof wheel and take the plug's groundstrap and cut it back so that it no longer covers the whole center electrode, i cut it back to just at the edge of the center electrode.... it keeps the groundstrap from getting as hot and becoming a glowplug
i should show ya the rainbowed 104's that came outta the riv...you could tell the bastards were glowing....ever since it's had 103's with the groundstraps cutback...no more rainbowing....btw colder plugs refer to the shorter heatsink distance that the center porcelin and electrode have...colder plugs do not change how hot the groundstraps get...only way to reduce that is to shorten the groundstrap to reduce the heatsink distance for it
man all this info is making me think that nitrous isnt going to be a good decision right now. if i tune for the wet kit, what will happen when i dont use the nitrous. this isnt something i plan i using everyday. just once in a while. will i need to retune for when im not spraying?
as for colder plugs, i already have NGK TR6's. what would i need to change to for the nitrous?
will my stock fuel pump work or should i do a rewire or get a better pump?
as for colder plugs, i already have NGK TR6's. what would i need to change to for the nitrous?
will my stock fuel pump work or should i do a rewire or get a better pump?
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